Funny how things go sometimes.

Funny how things go sometimes. You can spend ages trying to get fit again, trying and always falling off stuff and feeling like you're not getting anywhere. Then one day everything clicks into place; you know you're on form and the climbs suddenly feel easy when you do them.

That's what's been happening since taking up what my old mate Phil Davidson was doing 30 years ago! Yes, I've stopped eating any old rubbish, ie. no processed food, no sugar and low on the carbs. This has meant oat bran and natural yoghurt for breakfast, plenty of fruit and ryvita style biscuits during the day and salad without bread in the evening and definitely no beer. In just 4 weeks I've lost 6kg and I'm feeling great!

Anyway, in the last 3 days I managed several 7a/b's, 2 7b+ onsights, almost a bouldery 7c onsight (so 1st go redpoint) and redpointed 2 8a's. Brilliant!

We've also been going down to Art'Bloc on Wednesday afternoons, as the days are too short to get out after work now. There are so many great problems to do. Just as well, as we'll be spending more time there as the forecast is not good for the rest of the week. Let's see what Thursday and the weekend bring.

Sponge Bob Square Pants and the Monsoon.

Earlier this year, I met up with a couple of great mates (from my previous life back in cold, wet Britain) at Ceuse. As usual, I had to make sure I had my thick skin on, as Ewan and Steve both have a wicked sense of humour. Anyway, Steve very quickly spotted the cheap jeans that I was climbing in and proceeded to hurl abuse my way. (At 6 euros a pair from Carrefour they are great value and they're brilliant for kneebars; they don't get holes first time the knee goes behind a tufa and you don't need to faff about with kneepads either.) As the banter developed, he dealt the killer punch line (after I had let slip that they were 30" waist and 30" leg). Since then, I have had to get used to the nickname of "Sponge Bob Square Pants"!!!

Erm, changing the subject quickly. Since the last entry, we have had an awful lot of rain down here. So much that most of the crags are now very wet and will take a long time to dry. The rain came in earnest during the 1/2 term holiday of course and at the weekends as well. How typical is that? So, Fatman and Robin haven't been back to Peillon, which will definitely be dripping. Crags in the Gorges du Loup are also very wet too.

We did get to Italy for a couple of nice days as well as to "Alcatraz". Alcatraz is a fairly new crag (equipped by the mega keen Olivier Germain) which has some classic routes, that don't seep much, overlooking Monaco. It was really encouraging to do the brilliant "Mont Fantasme" (7c+) in a day. 

Changing the subject again. Elaine is now climbing again. We've been to the local bouldering walls a couple of times. She is taking it easy of course, but her finger seems to be getting better. Great news indeed.

Another positive: Liverpool have just equalised against Chelsea. Come on the Reds, lets get 3 points! (It'll make a nice change!!!)

I am basically pretty lazy. I have always tended to take easier options in life. Take, for example, the choice between getting flattened on the rugby field at school or going "cross country running" (and having a smoke) instead. There you go, easy decision, you can't blame me. My friend Snapper (alias Tim Hatch) made me complete one of BA's middle management questionnaires once (ok, we were waiting for the rain to stop, before getting out of the car, at Kilnsey c.1993). He concluded, that I was "very good at avoiding responsibility". A conclusion somewhat less surprising than (perhaps) the sun, having disappeared over the horizon tonight, meaning it will reappear again tomorrow! Still, the truth can sometimes be rather dis-arming to say the least.

A few years ago (as I headed way too quickly towards the big 5 0) I made a big effort to get fit. I was really chuffed to do some ace routes down here, that were comparable to stuff I did in the UK and Spain in '93. However, to go up a level proved (at the time) impossible. (The same happened in the UK in '94/'95 when I failed to complete either Cry Freedom or Bat Route.) I spent most of 2006 falling off either Soul Sacrifice or Souffle du Vizir. These 2 routes really killed my desire to spend a long time trying the same thing over and over again. The problem is, not only am I fundamentally lazy, but I also get bored very easily (how ironic is it that I'm a teacher and have to put up with little darlings who have problems with concentration?).

Anyway, to cut a long story short (even I'm getting bored by now!), Fatman and Robin went to Peillon last Thursday. Both of us had already redpointed "A bout du Souffle" (a fantastic soft-touch 8b, which is the 1st part of the 8b+ "Souffle du vizir"). I did it over 7 years ago and Robin did it earlier this year. We both had a couple of runs to remind ourselves of the moves and we did ok. The sticking point was the tufa, after the 2 finger pocket (already mentioned in a previous blog).

Souffle du Vizir will be my winter project again, though this time I'm not going to get obsessed. However, I have cut out the beer completely and I've been doing some sit ups. So, we'll see how quickly I get bored. At the moment the crag is really quiet, so I can't use the excuse of too many people trying the same start, and so on.... At least I'm not feeling lazy (though it is only October). Could this be "The Dark Knight Rises Again"?

Some photos of A bout du Souffle (which means "breathless") from last Thursday (taken by Robin's partner Ghislaine).

The weekend was spent climbing in the Gorges du Loup. Saturday: Deverse en haut falling off Godzilla and blowing the 7c+ with my hand on the finishing jug. Sunday: another mileage day at Jurassic Park

Crags are all bone dry, so we'll just have to go out again tomorrow after a morning at school. C'est belle la vie!

Some pics from the Gorges.

Got some feed back today. Tansy, one of the coolest gals from Manchester, said she had some probs finding this blog, she said she kept getting stuff for some footballer. Said footballer used to be my hero (you've seen me wearing the shirt) until he left Liverpool FC. His ultimate fall from grace, as far as I was concerned, was when he signed for Man Utd and spent a lot of time sat on the bench, because even Fergie thought he was rubbish! I am the real Michael Owen! (as said by ace DJ Rob Harrison on 106.5.) Mind you, I don't know if Tansy did finally manage to read anything other than flippin' football! (Even I can't stand watching over-paid w...... this season.)

Anyway, not much to report on really. Didn't make it to Cineplex and try my project there, as the weather was a bit iffy and it was easier to stay in bed a bit longer, instead of making the 2 hour drive. So, we climbed just a couple of kms behind our house this weekend. How great is it, when you go out to your local crags and do some new routes one day and do 3 of your favourite hard routes (an 8a+ and two 7c+'s) the next day for a work out? That's what I ask myself most days here: am I glad I left St Helens and climbing at Malham/Kilnsey for this beautiful place? Absolutely no contest there!

Some pics from La Piscine on Saturday:

Julien on "Piercing" 6c.

 Yannick on "Soleil Rasta", 7b and Marie-Jo on "Bouge tes fesses", 6c.

Actually, today has been a bit stressful. Full day at school and Scamp has had the trots, big time (Steady Eddy's favourite saying) last night and when we got home! Perfect time to open an excellent bottle of the red nectar, which was given as a bday present in June, by the best History T in the world: the most modest Mr Bill Griffin. Cheers mate!

Alex on "La tour de Pise" (impersonating Patrick Edlinger), 6c.

Francois Hollande et sa chemise. More adventures of Fatman and Robin.

Fatman and Robin made it out together today after a 2 week break. We met up at the parking spot for le Palais. Conditions weren't promising as there was way too much humidity and the cloud layer was very low. Still, we set off for Petit Palais as planned.

 Franco and Flaviano were already there. Flaviano was wearing a really bright orange shirt (chemise) and I mentioned that he was making a statement by wearing it. We discussed the possibility of an equivalent French word for "statement" and it seems there is no such word. I tried to explain it was rather like Francois Hollande stating that he would have a clean and straight government. So, Robin tried his best to get his head round this revelation, but in the end he said he couldn't really see the link between Francois Hollande and Flaviano's shirt! Erm, you had to be there really ....

We had a great day, despite poor conditions. Robin made short work of "Le Retour de Mo", a very powerful 7c/7c+ and I managed a 1st redpoint of "Quel trip te guette?", a fantastic 7c+ that I'd had my eye on for a couple of years. An early finish for 2 very happy crag rats.

Flaviano climbing "Ideal Pouf", 7b

Robin climbing "Le Retour de Mo", 7c/7c+

Chuffed to do the new 7c at Mesa Verde yesterday, too. Looking good for Cineplex this weekend.

Pocket power (or the lack of)

I'm a very, very slow climber. Always have been and always will be. I'm even slower than Tony Mitchell (but nowhere near as stylish). I imagine watching me climb is completely different from the fast, action-packed movement of Chris Sharma and even less interesting than watching paint dry. That's because I started climbing on nuts and I didn't dare fall off. By necessity, climbing was like a war of attrition; you took your time and hung on by the grit of your teeth. Old habits die hard. The result is that I really struggle with anything that comes near to a hard move, due to a complete lack of what Ben and Jerry called "power". Just like the late, great Jim Jewel, I can't pull on the smallest holds, but those I can pull on, I can pull on all day. At Art'bloc I struggle on the warm ups, but put me on a long route with good holds and I'm in heaven.

Yesterday, after a very sweaty Saturday at Cineplex (getting closer on my project there) we went to Mesa Verde. There is a new 7c there, which Big Ben said was really good. However, he failed to mention that the crux involves a mono. (Ok, even I can manage the odd mono move.) But this mono was very painful indeed and it was impossible to bear the pain. I actually got past the mono on redpoint but my finger was in agony. So, I need to go back and do it properly without the rest. Maybe on Wednesday.

Pockets have always been hard work. This mono can be added to the list that also includes the bi-doigt on Au Bout du Souffle (left hand 1st and 2nd fingers), the bi-doigt on Barjorland (middle 2 fingers on right hand) and the bi-doigt on Soul Sacrifice (middle 2 fingers, right hand again). At least I managed the first two but never completed SS, despite it being a stones throw from home.

Pulling on the 2 finger pocket on Au Bout du Souffle, in 2005

Elaine has got a small broken bone in her left hand from a few weeks back, whilst belaying me. And today, she had a synovial fluid injection in her problem middle finger on her right hand. Hopefully, that should see her on the mend and she can get back to normal soon.

Parents evening tomorrow, arrrgggghhhhh!!!

Je suis un lion tres amicable qui s'appelle "Parsley". Further adventures of Fatman and Robin.

I do the shopping now. It is something I try hard to fit in between working and climbing (remember, I now work part time, ok?). I like doing the weekly shop. I get to buy nice wine and there is always beer in the house now. Anyway, I slipped up a few weeks ago, when re-stocking the camper van. I bought a jar of ciboulette (chives) instead of basil. Otherwise, my track record is doing well.

Tonight we ate early (after a quick session at Jurassic Park) as the Boss had to go for a scan on her left hand (she slammed into the rock whilst belaying me when I fell off somewhere recently and it's been hurting since). We haven't had as much fun over tomates et mozzarelle for a long time! Reason: we got talking about the ciboulet and that prompted us to remember the 60's children's tv series called "The Herbs". It was quite worrying how quickly we trawled through over 40 years of memories and we were soon excitedly trying to remember the characters. However, I puffed my chest out when I remembered Parsley and then threw the ace when I sang the first line of his signature tune: "I'm a very friendly lion called Parsley". Get in!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Herbs

Check it out dudes.

Here's a couple of shots of Elaine climbing at Jurassic Park.

Tomorrow: Fatman and Robin go to secteur Jacob at la Turbie. That'll wipe the smile of my face, as there's nothing easy (below 8a) left for me to do there! Maybe, I'll get a good project as that's what I need..... Watch this space!

Fatman and Robin go to Cineplex and Deverse, Premier Etage

Cineplex and Gorges du Loup

Fatman and Robin made it to Cineplex and I even had success downloading some photos from my phone. 

  This is Robin climbing up the in-situ ladder to get to the upper secteur at Deverse.

 A section of the cliff: tufa paradise!

                                          

                      Fatman climbing America Oggi at Cineplex in Italy, taken by Axel.

We chose America Oggi because it had some really nice looking tufas low down. They proved quite straight forward as the climbing above was mainly on slopers. We were both spat off the slab, taking some great whippers in the process! Robin was successful on his 1st redpoint whilst I took to the air near the top and stripped the draws. We then did 21 Grammi, which suited us much better.

After a Wednesday afternoon at Jurassic Park with Elaine, doing some mileage (including the link up of Diplodocus and the finish of Queue du Diable again), Robin and I made it back to Cineplex. After I made good use of a kind Italian's draws on America Oggi, we both got stuck into a couple of 8a's that we'll have to go back for.......

 Marie-Jo on a 7a at La Phasme.

The Dream Team in action!

This weekend saw Elaine and me climbing in the Gorges du Loup with Marie-Jo and Julien (as we were not keen on the drive to Italy). Saturday at La Jungle and Sunday at La Phasme. Both days were great fun with lots of on-sighting and plenty of laughter too. Unfortunately, Elaine's finger is really hurting her these days. She goes to the specialist this Thursday, after which she'll probably be told to take a long rest. Hopefully, she'll be able to give me a belay at Cineplex next weekend!

Fatman and Robin

Fatman and Robin get high at Deverse

I really hate computers. I've just spent an hour and a half trying (unsuccessfully) to transfer some photos from my phone to my laptop and trying to get to read my emails. The problem is me, of course, as I'm not the most computer literate of my generation. I know this and yet it still doesn't prevent me from really disliking computers. If I see another "server not found" tonight this laptop will meet its maker, I promise!

Still, I'm pleased with today. Elaine filmed me on the classic Cayenne recently and last night I saw the result. I was shocked at what I saw. Not because of the ease at which this old giffer made it look (despite not having done it for a long time) but because I look so fat in the video. Now, I've never looked good in a harness, due to being short and wide. But, come on I've been baring my torso/flab down here for over 13 years in all kinds of weather (as I'm a hardy Brit) but nobody told me to cover up as the sight wasn't pretty!

                                            A more acceptable still from the Cayenne video.

So, I found an old vest to cover up today (especially as my climbing partner, Robin, is very lean and ripped, but he is nearly 20 years younger than me) and save the embarrassment for both of us. Now I did get lean when I was psyched for Mortal Kombat and Barjoland a few years ago now, but many beers and pain aux raisins have gone down the hatch since then. So, I was determined to stay covered today.

Chosen destination today: the new and very steep secteur above Deverse (in the fabulous Gorges du Loup) equipped by Ben Guigonnet. I was already sopping wet by the time we'd done the 5 minute walk in. Still, keeping a brave face, we climbed the vertical free-standing ladder and jumared up to the base of the climbs, leaving Scamp attached to a convenient tree at the bottom to sleep away the day.

Once we'd found the topo in a jar, Robin set off on the "voie de chauffe", a 7a+ on the right. He is much quicker than me to get geared up so takes the first lead and establishes the climbing order for the day. He doesn't realise its a ploy on my part to have the draws in and get the beta too!!!! Turns out to be a nice route which will improve with traffic.

Next up, we decide on a very steep 7b+ covered in tufas. Robin goes first of course, but misreads a move right and takes a hang. He continues to the last draw and takes another hang before reaching the chain. My turn. Now, if there is a knee bar to be found I'll get it and there are plenty. Getting the flash was very pleasing, albeit hot in my vest. Robin got it easily next go. However, the order has now changed. Mmmmmm, maybe not a good idea, perhaps I should have fallen just before the chain!

So, what next? its my turn. We both fancy the 7c which leads to the same chain. I scope the moves and work out its hard low down then lots of tufas and knee bars. The onsight goes well, apart from a scare when both feet zip after the crux. Robin benefits from my beta and makes it look easy. Both of us are grinning like young fools!

There's still plenty of gas left in both tanks for a look at the 8a on the right. My turn to go first again and work it out. However, both of us bloc at the bouldery crux and continue to the chain and then we're content to call it a day. We rappel back down to Scamp and walk back to our vans and go our separate ways, both absolutely chuffed to bits. I even managed to get an hour in the sun at home.

Then the computer........ Nothing a Leffe can't handle, of course!

Ben Decoster on Soul Sacrifice at Deverse "original", taken a couple of years ago. Today, we climbed at the higher secteur just appearing top left.


Saturday we plan to go to Cineplex in Italy for the day and check it out. Bring it on. I'll be there in my vest again, doing my bit for the crinklies!

Been there, got the T-shirt

It's a Wednesday today. Normally, I would be out climbing with Elaine. Probably at Jurassic Park (as it's close to home and handy after work; we don't work afternoons on Wednesday's). However, I dropped Elaine off at Nice airport a couple of hours ago. She has gone back to Preston for a family funeral.

So, Scamp and I went for a walk in the forest up the hill behind our house. Scamp and I know this walk off by heart, as we've been doing it together for nearly 10 years now. We always enjoy this beautiful walk and the stunning view of the Gorges du Loup from the top. We go out in all kinds of weather and we never get bored: Scamp carries a stick and marks her patch whilst I contemplate the meaning of life, the universe and everything. You see, I used to do the same walk with Merlin (Scamp's predecessor) and old habits are hard to kick.

This year has been a pivotal time in my life. Elaine and I have both had to deal with my 2 year depression. Sadly, I lost my father in February and in April I had an operation in my mouth (due to a mistake by a dentist from which I may possibly never fully recover). As a result, I am now very much aware of the passage of time and the fact that, in the grand scale of things, we are pretty insignificant indeed. But, hey, today I came to the conclusion that I can cope with that. Such is life and I'm one happy little chappie.

Anyway, starting last week, I am now working part time. Yippee! So, why didn't I go out climbing with friends after dropping Elaine off? Well, that's because I'm going out tomorrow you see! Robin and I are going to the new secteur at Deverse. Hopefully, I'll get some photos to share.

I used to have an ace T-shirt (dating from the time when I was sponsored by DMM in the nineties) which bore the lifestyle logo of "Climb now work later". During the past few years I haven't been able to follow that lifestyle freely. Now (as my depression is now under control) I feel like a burden has been lifted and I can get back to normal again and start thinking about climbing now and working later.

A couple of days ago, I noticed a post from Duncan McCallum about a poem written by an old man and found after he had died. It was so poignant as it spoke about how he felt so young and sharp inside whilst young folks just assumed he was senile and worthless.This kind of made me think about the current generation of young climbers who appear to forget about the great things done by previous generations. For example, in the nineties there were many climbers regularly (and modestly) ticking the hard routes of the time without seeing the need to make any big deal about it. So, why is it big news on UKC when somebody does Raindogs or Predator and so on, as such routes were already established trade routes well over 20 years ago? Maybe, these climbers are just blissfully unaware. It seems that everybody wants to be sponsored and become famous. I say get a life and just climb, who cares.

Anyway, shut up and climb.

I'd forgotten that I'd set up this blog last year, perhaps because I hadn't had anything interesting to put in it. Perhaps not.

We haven't seemed to do a lot of climbing in the last year, not like we used to do. We spend too much time looking at the weather forecast and staying at home, if there is any hint of rain! We should bite the bullit and get away in the camper van more often.

Since early April, I have had to put up with a numb lower lip, teeth and chin on the left side of my face. This is because the dentist cut the mandibular nerve when re-doing a root canal (as I had an infection in a root). I usually see Helen in Cagnes sur Mer, but she is always booked up, so I saw her associate instead. I have had to have an operation in my mouth to try and sort out the problem. The op was successful. However, the nerve is unlikely to regenerate and I am slowly getting used to the lack of feeling. As a result, I am missing 2 crowns and a bridge and feeling very self conscious when opening my mouth. Eating is no longer a pleasure, as I often bite myself (at least I don't feel it!) and I can't talk for long as my mouth hasn't fully healed inside. We have a GAV insurance, which should enable me to gain some compensation.

On Tuesday, we went to see Coldplay in Nice. The rain stopped at last and it was a fantastic gig with amazing special effects. Everybody had a magic coloured bracelet that lit up. We got home way after 2am as the roads were jammed solid. I'm hoping that I can attach some photos to this......

We have been out a few times recently; a day bouldering at Annot, la grotte at La Brigue and some days in the gorge. This afternoon, I'm meeting up with some friends at Mesa Verde, which is hopefully dry. We'll see.