tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64324664525360421192024-03-12T17:27:43.020-07:00Mike Owen's blogMike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.comBlogger129125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-3257469519412504122023-10-30T09:55:00.001-07:002023-10-30T10:07:50.635-07:00La Reina de las Columnas Sometimes photos can really inspire you. Such was the case when I saw the photo of Mariona Marti on <i>La Reina de las Columnas</i> (an 8a at Llaberia in Spain) in the 1st edition of Tarragona Climbs, nine years ago. I was captivated and had to try it. I did try it pretty soon afterwards. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfTIgtgt26Fnwy9ik3d2VIS27y21oXUMK6XJof-aSIm_8M-Aw0xW9_DsaZpaRT1Wx2FUoMDGzu9B13H3GEYpAxK4b8xizTRmN2-omt3VrOwCO5-DXT9kgY97Ee4EbRCNYd1fWppAHKR_ao2CuSzxEKZSxgqV4yAYq8QLxoG9yMyPy6jgPo8S62ThYhpWM/s2733/La%20reina%20MM.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2733" data-original-width="1920" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfTIgtgt26Fnwy9ik3d2VIS27y21oXUMK6XJof-aSIm_8M-Aw0xW9_DsaZpaRT1Wx2FUoMDGzu9B13H3GEYpAxK4b8xizTRmN2-omt3VrOwCO5-DXT9kgY97Ee4EbRCNYd1fWppAHKR_ao2CuSzxEKZSxgqV4yAYq8QLxoG9yMyPy6jgPo8S62ThYhpWM/s320/La%20reina%20MM.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The photo of Mariona Marti that inspired me</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div>Firstly, I failed miserably on a 7c+ called <i>Los Gabachos</i> and then did exactly the same on <i>La Reina de las Columnas</i>. Unfortunately, it was a damp and misty day, and I wasn't fit enough for either at the time. The years have passed (far too quickly) and I've not had the chance for a rematch. Until recently.</div><div><br /></div><div>Elaine and I set off with a plan for a short 12 days in the Cali. We managed to avoid getting lost on the approach to the crag this time, despite it being misty again. Unfortunately, the black tufas at the start of <i>La Reina</i> were very wet so I needed to try something else.</div><div><br /></div><div>I decided to try <i>Los Gabachos</i> again. As I sat on the rope, dogging the moves, I remembered that it was hard and the tufas were slopey and wondered to myself what was I thinking; what was I doing, why was I trying again? It seemed totally desperate, so there were no expectations as I set off on my next attempt (I've always called this 2nd go or 1st redpoint). I arrived at the crux section and rested at the kneebar, feeling relaxed and under no pressure, expecting to fall off pretty soon to be honest. However, I just climbed and, move after move, everything just went smoothly (although I was puffing away like an old steam train). Eventually, after lots of rounded tufas, plenty of kneebars and a total body pump, I was clipping the belay. Flipping heck, that was totally unexpected and a big surprise. The buzz you get from climbing like that is amazing and so addictive, it usually lasts for several days.</div><div><br /></div><div>Our trip continued with me climbing outdoors for 2 days, whilst Elaine climbed indoors (at <b>Monobloc</b> in Reus) on my rest days. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcHZtSXrpOgaNrD56T9ClguuZxwQFIau3HgwQahbJVic0dv5FDT5nFhkGnPErxnoDViqdLfcSp0YMJw1OKJm7UuWLh-iirf_Q1g7LSIOeL6k26fKl3IuJ0BT6aqzYTcA800t8HQ2HHh9hvnHVFsxsSA6lNnik8b5e-at_O-PMZ-tKT8w2RULuFTVyaDHY/s1920/Elaine%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcHZtSXrpOgaNrD56T9ClguuZxwQFIau3HgwQahbJVic0dv5FDT5nFhkGnPErxnoDViqdLfcSp0YMJw1OKJm7UuWLh-iirf_Q1g7LSIOeL6k26fKl3IuJ0BT6aqzYTcA800t8HQ2HHh9hvnHVFsxsSA6lNnik8b5e-at_O-PMZ-tKT8w2RULuFTVyaDHY/s320/Elaine%202.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9WRdmevQ-1tEfV3u1wPohk9A_eAR2PU7-Kw_yr8X_kvoXinDT6Y7Cqxtl2vM0gyRJIIQto3RB-sTm57CDAgoBZOqkOfhidN2_0R4klXi2GX7VdDhiATEBzKF1sqoTCiFAJLdggfBBu9IqOVCsgqzYh_b4sQhwXrxmt4tfIVLD1hR7kenagjuVi_HOnOY/s2000/Elaine%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9WRdmevQ-1tEfV3u1wPohk9A_eAR2PU7-Kw_yr8X_kvoXinDT6Y7Cqxtl2vM0gyRJIIQto3RB-sTm57CDAgoBZOqkOfhidN2_0R4klXi2GX7VdDhiATEBzKF1sqoTCiFAJLdggfBBu9IqOVCsgqzYh_b4sQhwXrxmt4tfIVLD1hR7kenagjuVi_HOnOY/s320/Elaine%201.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elaine looking strong at Monobloc</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Next day, I managed <i>El Conchito</i> (7c/+) 2nd go before having a play on <i>King of Bongo</i> (8a), which I was able to do after my next rest day. A couple of really good 7cs were next in the bag, <i>3eme Millénaire</i> and <i>Combustion Spontanée</i>.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAO-DkatQBk8nyLgM81b7ogeglghYWZh5LacxQghI8q5MKyvtPNBUt-ywzwC0kiriEh-rg4J3oMJW4TVbHb7hggPx7t8xwEj6Dm3w55arj-rJ03in9Q5z1Opu9B_QSz-i1EfZe4wV15_lYEgUJJfxdA4GJSyv4Gvp-4GLCYzK5l3jwUTeuQeikk6sBz5s/s2000/M%20n%20Eddie.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAO-DkatQBk8nyLgM81b7ogeglghYWZh5LacxQghI8q5MKyvtPNBUt-ywzwC0kiriEh-rg4J3oMJW4TVbHb7hggPx7t8xwEj6Dm3w55arj-rJ03in9Q5z1Opu9B_QSz-i1EfZe4wV15_lYEgUJJfxdA4GJSyv4Gvp-4GLCYzK5l3jwUTeuQeikk6sBz5s/s320/M%20n%20Eddie.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Combustion Spontanée (7c), Eddie belaying</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Eventually, <i>La Reina de las Columnas</i> dried out and I decided to take a look. It took a long time to work out the beta, which needed lots of fine tuning during 3 days of effort, patiently belayed by Elaine, Eddie and Ewan, much appreciated and big thanks guys.</div><div><br /></div><div>So, the last day of our trip arrived, we had to go home the next day, no chance of staying any longer. Patience is very important in climbing, and it's good to keep your mind clear, stay calm and avoid putting yourself under any pressure. After all, it's only climbing, it's not that serious. Or is it? If it wasn't going to work out that day, there'd always be another time. It ended up being another of those zen moments when everything went perfectly (again there was lots of puffing like an old steam train). Amazingly I had realised my dream and it felt so good. I'm still enjoying that high, 3 days later. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5LM9i1s_JNVNxuO6MGw-bCilvZefsv1CgQqy6bEE9BBSCM-isGXte_G77h9dG92bu9uhFkgukdWTwG8Rxz6jy64G3lERqqfzUa6_PjEb2jn831pupd_5a4sokkz_Cca5WVj7G4pneTNIx870M2KwC6Q8U2t76NzcGzZyj8L9AY0D2LpfV2dILTK5TS8c/s2000/Mike%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5LM9i1s_JNVNxuO6MGw-bCilvZefsv1CgQqy6bEE9BBSCM-isGXte_G77h9dG92bu9uhFkgukdWTwG8Rxz6jy64G3lERqqfzUa6_PjEb2jn831pupd_5a4sokkz_Cca5WVj7G4pneTNIx870M2KwC6Q8U2t76NzcGzZyj8L9AY0D2LpfV2dILTK5TS8c/s320/Mike%201.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The start is hard</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgVTx8ToUN8kKcLGXbIIbmrcF_oL5NLhyphenhyphen_rl5w7DOxuugGYFz8AkipSIBhz8IV4xEHIiwOgb__tb5XZWKloQGtHpCuLsBW6l9exW9RU4l51pUK8dFSM1qaaHGVUoeQ-HOIEnMpkn8DXgXR9_VVi_rMrO3Az9U5AQUf3QEGTRFsJfyYYVVKOfJQNkJluQ/s2000/Mike%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgVTx8ToUN8kKcLGXbIIbmrcF_oL5NLhyphenhyphen_rl5w7DOxuugGYFz8AkipSIBhz8IV4xEHIiwOgb__tb5XZWKloQGtHpCuLsBW6l9exW9RU4l51pUK8dFSM1qaaHGVUoeQ-HOIEnMpkn8DXgXR9_VVi_rMrO3Az9U5AQUf3QEGTRFsJfyYYVVKOfJQNkJluQ/s320/Mike%202.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Long reach to gain the thin tufa</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoZy9qQXvi1t9gC8CpCu8yEhpP8pEDrEYrqmbrLhUHXkLcgjqnHFG06Fke349qu7YguKDMsXPKudEqOdjbd30PcJMJAa_Ko7Does-xM3S-4JR34ttjeNf_u3585qD5rX6yYzSCGhXVp-0XtaaQHv1qtifljqY5OvkSzMwBzyv1gj5zUb6y8IQV2flcb6o/s2000/Mike%203.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoZy9qQXvi1t9gC8CpCu8yEhpP8pEDrEYrqmbrLhUHXkLcgjqnHFG06Fke349qu7YguKDMsXPKudEqOdjbd30PcJMJAa_Ko7Does-xM3S-4JR34ttjeNf_u3585qD5rX6yYzSCGhXVp-0XtaaQHv1qtifljqY5OvkSzMwBzyv1gj5zUb6y8IQV2flcb6o/s320/Mike%203.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying really hard</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJrfE8F1Bh1dt20sSA54Sv-Z2eUDKbauR1L8f5eED5at_unVuY5TkQsZyLT5NXCZSBoOvOzdRuQRNS-xXpeH6WQRrEy4eZ5mLoejF9ze-W4XCKJKaRnCEK4y96Mg_c8QEtBfGAEgAnGyuv_2saLwcW5mteX5-kpVm-FoSYPAuUHPBVbWNtMRBrlacnYR8/s2000/Mike%204.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJrfE8F1Bh1dt20sSA54Sv-Z2eUDKbauR1L8f5eED5at_unVuY5TkQsZyLT5NXCZSBoOvOzdRuQRNS-xXpeH6WQRrEy4eZ5mLoejF9ze-W4XCKJKaRnCEK4y96Mg_c8QEtBfGAEgAnGyuv_2saLwcW5mteX5-kpVm-FoSYPAuUHPBVbWNtMRBrlacnYR8/s320/Mike%204.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost there</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVpXuadkAdPVBLI3b2QdJBBIG1y7wZuVkt0pn4ncEm148ZlQDaeDGYi9wkLMmo188l2aHvcbfdVySQ8u5ds591ykVNf4IngK6i6lhTAPrCd0r7MHfIwZsm55mGfz2P9ThixyAMuVwg6ti2-KRK-vwgjgXrZKjP_OvEhnNrSTitT8vhiEa5_tenaxsyNro/s2000/Mike%205.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVpXuadkAdPVBLI3b2QdJBBIG1y7wZuVkt0pn4ncEm148ZlQDaeDGYi9wkLMmo188l2aHvcbfdVySQ8u5ds591ykVNf4IngK6i6lhTAPrCd0r7MHfIwZsm55mGfz2P9ThixyAMuVwg6ti2-KRK-vwgjgXrZKjP_OvEhnNrSTitT8vhiEa5_tenaxsyNro/s320/Mike%205.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the kneebar above the crux</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I'm 65 years young and still climbing 8a. How the flipping heck is that possible? I don't know how, but I do know that I'm still hopelessly addicted to this crazy fun waste of time pursuit climbing up rocks. And long may it continue.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI3b8jtYNXqxIC1TWSFT4MlHoMGgM9XkMqzhuIYfpdgKVtw36ln-60bphqnrPaT30ZeMY0HUcYvB_zqZVreYYoP9yhhJTAQUTZwOWF2kIjyJUb93J7oxAQn9Iz_hd9oN-LgxBS8u-i7evfDDsNxXtRJjtpTTCXa5XZMDidVo12JVD7plqYG9ZsTPa9wpI/s2000/Ewan%201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI3b8jtYNXqxIC1TWSFT4MlHoMGgM9XkMqzhuIYfpdgKVtw36ln-60bphqnrPaT30ZeMY0HUcYvB_zqZVreYYoP9yhhJTAQUTZwOWF2kIjyJUb93J7oxAQn9Iz_hd9oN-LgxBS8u-i7evfDDsNxXtRJjtpTTCXa5XZMDidVo12JVD7plqYG9ZsTPa9wpI/s320/Ewan%201.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKioveS4WzIUMAyODoLSyXcKUbCFPVrXOMo7NS7KkW7MLi2f-UBG6_nPfR2MbtbdXFNPjwZY83IvHbiRdn2mNrt9iDAD2zMljE8kUhZ-lYQEvyXj951hLuM-e4SYdqZo6S-j5D16KCXINRzYg2dKUYHn0a5ukjML3S48FgjlonASZdg-phK_kSK4ltu8c/s2000/Ewan%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKioveS4WzIUMAyODoLSyXcKUbCFPVrXOMo7NS7KkW7MLi2f-UBG6_nPfR2MbtbdXFNPjwZY83IvHbiRdn2mNrt9iDAD2zMljE8kUhZ-lYQEvyXj951hLuM-e4SYdqZo6S-j5D16KCXINRzYg2dKUYHn0a5ukjML3S48FgjlonASZdg-phK_kSK4ltu8c/s320/Ewan%202.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ewan climbing <i>Rififi au Tour de France</i> (7b)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgelrTzb5XjRn7hgmuYGCjiOE0u9Y3Js6YzTrjqr_ZER6uzHqvOM4DzyEtyzF4Lsj4LOKRLzSKaheltVq3PeqNDc1pfKNoP4XgrKa80806b3GBBE38SQ5PQmgHVjDYgLgGAvhyXGW70tY4nNZBNr1q9SWR6ysBbUjG7VeoogBmy9L_eWb5eW9OhuwKKbTs/s1600/Ewan%20+%20Woody.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgelrTzb5XjRn7hgmuYGCjiOE0u9Y3Js6YzTrjqr_ZER6uzHqvOM4DzyEtyzF4Lsj4LOKRLzSKaheltVq3PeqNDc1pfKNoP4XgrKa80806b3GBBE38SQ5PQmgHVjDYgLgGAvhyXGW70tY4nNZBNr1q9SWR6ysBbUjG7VeoogBmy9L_eWb5eW9OhuwKKbTs/s320/Ewan%20+%20Woody.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ewan and Woody chillin</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Great to catch up with Dave and Rhian Cross, Eddie Martinez and Ewan McCallum during our time in Spain. All outdoor climbing photos taken by Elaine Owen (big thanks kiddo).</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Also: please be aware that the climbing at Llaberia is restricted from 10 January until 31 July. This is to encourage the expansion in the population of the rare Bonelli's Eagle. <br /></b><div><div><div><br /></div></div></div></div>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-20824543769208935692023-08-21T06:37:00.002-07:002023-08-21T11:44:19.859-07:00<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOQu3AH68JH-s1xe3I8NHlZqMGnxjNY_MYUmHaADHE-vaRXv3UfdpWPzMNhEQod5nTU6E706NKB8dQMGYOIXQXzPO6qeX0ToYrZDiZcLtUrAqL87GuXwLTqEVcYZ7ctcojCPK8jMs9uz8bUxtMwgu-jRXvlAResWFens8byVwPyLOiHTSGyfNFGNVBjT4/s2000/Opera%20Vertical.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOQu3AH68JH-s1xe3I8NHlZqMGnxjNY_MYUmHaADHE-vaRXv3UfdpWPzMNhEQod5nTU6E706NKB8dQMGYOIXQXzPO6qeX0ToYrZDiZcLtUrAqL87GuXwLTqEVcYZ7ctcojCPK8jMs9uz8bUxtMwgu-jRXvlAResWFens8byVwPyLOiHTSGyfNFGNVBjT4/s320/Opera%20Vertical.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect Verdon souvenir</td></tr></tbody></table><br />40 years ago today, Elaine and I arrived at the Gorges du Verdon for the very first time. It was our first ever climbing trip abroad and we'd made the long drive from Merseyside with Al and Alison Simpson, via a stop off at Fontainbleau to do some bouldering. <div><br /></div><div>We quickly set up camp at the Camping Municipal and set off for a drive along La Route des Cretes to go and check out the cliffs. We stopped at all the belvederes to take in the impressive views. Not surprisingly, we were awe-inspired as we watched the climbers making their ways up the various routes on La Falaise de l'Escales, the biggest and most popular cliff in the gorge at that time.</div><div><br /></div><div>Next day, after an early start, Elaine and I set off from Couloir Sampson along the Sentier Martel, heading for the classic multipitch <i>Voie de la Demande</i>. I'd recently broken into the E6 grade back in North Wales, so I assumed that <i>La Demande</i> would be straight forward, as it was theoretically much easier. However, it turned into a baptism by fire and we took all day! A combination of tricky route finding, climbing with trainers and water bottles attached to our harnesses, along with climbing in the intense afternoon sun meant that we were very slow. We had a total epic, especially in the chimneys at the top which were very strenuous and utterly terrifying. Furthermore, there was nobody around to hitch a lift back to the campsite, so we had to walk all the way back and arrived totally exhausted, well after most people had gone to bed! Neither of us slept well that night, we were far too worried about our car sitting in the car park at Couloir Sampson. Rick Newcombe gave me a lift to go and get it early the next morning; it was a great relief to find it still there, undamaged with all the windows intact.</div><div><br /></div><div>After our epic on <i>La Demande</i>, Elaine and I decided that we'd had enough of climbing long routes, starting at the base and climbing all the way to the top of L'Escales. At the top of the cliff there were lots of one and two pitch routes, accessible by abseil, that kept us happy for a few days (eg <i>Necronomicron</i> and <i>Ctulah</i>), always after a leisurely breakfast (thanks to Rupert Hewson for collecting fresh baguettes and croissants every morning). </div><div><br /></div><div>There are also lots of climbs that start from the various tree covered terraces part way up the cliff. However, the multiple abseils needed to get down are almost as famous (and harrowing) as the climbs! So, Al and I were very happy to complete the abseils down to the bottom of Jean-Claude Droyer's classis masterpiece <i>Triomphe d'Eros</i> without incident. (Sadly, the climb is defaced with red and white GR markings, presumably somebody egotistically implying that it's a path.) Everything went smoothly until the belay next to the famous graffiti "La concierges est dans la fissure, sonnez la", which was when a massive storm started. Luckily the timing was perfect for a change, we were completely sheltered and stayed dry. However, the next pitch was a long traverse right that led to a belay below the crux pitch, both were completely soaked and unclimbable. Neither of us wanted to abseil all the way down, and staying put was not a good idea as it was getting late by then. Al spotted a line of pegs and bolts that went up the dry overhanging wall leftwards above our belay, so he manfully set off (despite having no idea what grade it was) using a mixture of free and aid climbing, and got to the top without much fuss. It was a phenomenal lead in my opinion. Next day, we abbed back to the belay besides the doorbell and finished the route. Brilliant!</div><div><br /></div><div><div>Joe Picalli inspired Elaine and I to go and climb the uber classic <i>Dingomaniaque</i>, which we both enjoyed without having an epic. Joe and I finally teamed up and had so much fun together on <i>Toujours plus près</i>. </div><div><br /></div><div>Our visit coincided with the appearance of the book Opera Vertical (featuring Patrick Edlinger) in the shop in La Palud. It provided the perfect souvenir for our trip and would provide the inspiration for a return the following year to climb <i>Surveiller et Punir</i>. Joe, Elaine and I climbed a number of the routes on the roadside crag of Miroir du Fou and managed to succeed on <i>Overcool Babados</i> and <i>Missing</i> before it was time to start the long journey north.</div></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4gBpU5Sd7ENdwYrzksS4OUP1vVAsglhgmZpkKGjcLNHoSK8ZwqAcsPwTghoo9CHpWVg0etZTpuIlcedxvF1dZIruJMz3VqO_InGBqNEKy62vppGz52A0GbzEp-RYHihKbpYuFToqIDu5TERL5pSG7PvfPa4AUgiLL6QMRhgOHTsC6Wh_aTCGqnMTM6A/s2000/Triomphe%20d'eros%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4gBpU5Sd7ENdwYrzksS4OUP1vVAsglhgmZpkKGjcLNHoSK8ZwqAcsPwTghoo9CHpWVg0etZTpuIlcedxvF1dZIruJMz3VqO_InGBqNEKy62vppGz52A0GbzEp-RYHihKbpYuFToqIDu5TERL5pSG7PvfPa4AUgiLL6QMRhgOHTsC6Wh_aTCGqnMTM6A/s320/Triomphe%20d'eros%201.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where Al and I waited for the storm to pass whilst on Triomphe d'Eros</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6_LfmUFZXyqIAvdZbuH4F64haTuc7owN1iOx-nop3igGokRGgrWFX1d28FlcMTOef_53iLKh9n7b41anntFmyZ5ieYNPA58PO8a8pjCdCbj0v-hAZm7fVvMMXShNv9Abpbh98sLl2_XV01yJa7rAz3pX2Fn14p5fr-q3GKq_GvmaVr3FtUaGlPa0mASE/s2000/Triomphe%20d'eros%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6_LfmUFZXyqIAvdZbuH4F64haTuc7owN1iOx-nop3igGokRGgrWFX1d28FlcMTOef_53iLKh9n7b41anntFmyZ5ieYNPA58PO8a8pjCdCbj0v-hAZm7fVvMMXShNv9Abpbh98sLl2_XV01yJa7rAz3pX2Fn14p5fr-q3GKq_GvmaVr3FtUaGlPa0mASE/s320/Triomphe%20d'eros%202.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crux pitch of Triomphe d'Eros</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3KKhzp4va89f9bPKCK5XnMdZSCrfkCuqX4-z_XZLEJLWQkNoE0uDDLOhDiVb1dXGLdEHZ1vMhh2HPUAWYfGT9TEWDvuif8C7jI8VpKqq-gCfATuFOC_dbyCwW72lGHWbEP5layPYTME2oOu7JHt_nDYM80BQOWKu94iKPJEfbJ-mmyVOMiRdyvXHSAp0/s2000/Ctuluh.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3KKhzp4va89f9bPKCK5XnMdZSCrfkCuqX4-z_XZLEJLWQkNoE0uDDLOhDiVb1dXGLdEHZ1vMhh2HPUAWYfGT9TEWDvuif8C7jI8VpKqq-gCfATuFOC_dbyCwW72lGHWbEP5layPYTME2oOu7JHt_nDYM80BQOWKu94iKPJEfbJ-mmyVOMiRdyvXHSAp0/s320/Ctuluh.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I remember Ctulah was pretty tough</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhISbAitzfwTpSanjCZNRSkTPaaI8R0ZomRolo0c0odSTLwpKQx6RZ0qCzIh-uxVrkRk2Q9_GXrLYJXOJ6cyftuV95xZeDHtvyQkH_y_UlwjD4foSu80_ArAOupIU1phETzxxTq09Yi3XHTE4xQpZyh0Lt-87dO0q3eylDnp9IlpOG6w_i3Yg3snMe8KC4/s2000/Dingomaniaque.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhISbAitzfwTpSanjCZNRSkTPaaI8R0ZomRolo0c0odSTLwpKQx6RZ0qCzIh-uxVrkRk2Q9_GXrLYJXOJ6cyftuV95xZeDHtvyQkH_y_UlwjD4foSu80_ArAOupIU1phETzxxTq09Yi3XHTE4xQpZyh0Lt-87dO0q3eylDnp9IlpOG6w_i3Yg3snMe8KC4/s320/Dingomaniaque.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The awesome crux pitch of Dingomaniaque</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsRQCKWpO6pxSNNPaLQ7mQYtxsbXjK3BvD0Kza0lddQBLzxcHtvOTNHhkpNHVgXWiNCmQiE6bNcNl8eJsjbfN7BiRih_ziwuSXdQ5WVKmjwQ64AewikM5XniQDSYqbxdDSSI0EO2GJgMMys4Hh-RYNldIy2KTj83UiLCa0aAgGHG2bVNwLbkymrWuL6I/s2000/Overcool%20Babados.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsRQCKWpO6pxSNNPaLQ7mQYtxsbXjK3BvD0Kza0lddQBLzxcHtvOTNHhkpNHVgXWiNCmQiE6bNcNl8eJsjbfN7BiRih_ziwuSXdQ5WVKmjwQ64AewikM5XniQDSYqbxdDSSI0EO2GJgMMys4Hh-RYNldIy2KTj83UiLCa0aAgGHG2bVNwLbkymrWuL6I/s320/Overcool%20Babados.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overcool Babados</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimqJxmo4XgFUIbyC38_MVVs_6S5KKi-355TmKbTgjWoBzLs8o9jaR2RCNzAvYLlmBLgonds_nm9_frZ84K__KTg6GAYhKm-3YxRs7uA394rmbPgOzCVIQVqP9rNfMBXJnNAMF2A_YMAr5Z37x0NKSgcLr7ZFB3t3VPQjrYMWhny4_ifRdjuh-q0nKWlu4/s2000/Surveiller%20et%20punir%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimqJxmo4XgFUIbyC38_MVVs_6S5KKi-355TmKbTgjWoBzLs8o9jaR2RCNzAvYLlmBLgonds_nm9_frZ84K__KTg6GAYhKm-3YxRs7uA394rmbPgOzCVIQVqP9rNfMBXJnNAMF2A_YMAr5Z37x0NKSgcLr7ZFB3t3VPQjrYMWhny4_ifRdjuh-q0nKWlu4/s320/Surveiller%20et%20punir%201.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 3rd (crux) pitch of Surveiller et Punir, inspiration for the following year</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1ar0QFm204jbkgYX5qtfTLrb3fov5kTYC4RD5QOaWraalboP8TshycSYRqxBEINuoiGupfFASq_JP2kuK2do32z3g0gy9VdTFyArHDn9W_DNOiu4U7O9ixc-bhn1bo_DJru33U4OmQ0TcjH36BAJkZlskss86CkjL2X3sc2ZJS3KmX68ABvyicgEky8/s2000/Surveiller%20et%20punir%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1ar0QFm204jbkgYX5qtfTLrb3fov5kTYC4RD5QOaWraalboP8TshycSYRqxBEINuoiGupfFASq_JP2kuK2do32z3g0gy9VdTFyArHDn9W_DNOiu4U7O9ixc-bhn1bo_DJru33U4OmQ0TcjH36BAJkZlskss86CkjL2X3sc2ZJS3KmX68ABvyicgEky8/s320/Surveiller%20et%20punir%202.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 4th (and last) pitch of Surveiller et Punir, more inspiration for the following year</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc-eohvFUWIIcuwFpvH75Y5FMbmEBIOaZlYpAZGk7_nDo_9djJrdc-U1LJAaaSlk2S4PcsJ7TumvRsc6cdrMSB80ur2M8lH8Al0rmu1RqXHTUlNN1QttF2pfuuQwu2zCH_JlHMAQ3isIxwvoi5eT_-l4txtWAOtKznZyq-H_IGEgB7W_m7e84CXb1H1qs/s2000/TNT.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc-eohvFUWIIcuwFpvH75Y5FMbmEBIOaZlYpAZGk7_nDo_9djJrdc-U1LJAaaSlk2S4PcsJ7TumvRsc6cdrMSB80ur2M8lH8Al0rmu1RqXHTUlNN1QttF2pfuuQwu2zCH_JlHMAQ3isIxwvoi5eT_-l4txtWAOtKznZyq-H_IGEgB7W_m7e84CXb1H1qs/s320/TNT.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TNT, a climb I did the following year with Simon King</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-88816603850964861332023-06-14T05:22:00.006-07:002023-06-14T05:42:08.897-07:00Malaxe St Léger is definitely one of the best places to climb in the south of France and it's just over a three hour drive away for us. We have been climbing there, off and on, for over 20 years. It's located in a beautiful part of Provence, just to the north of the imposing Mont Ventoux, and is surrounded by rustic villages, vineyards and lavender fields.<div><br /></div><div>La Baleine is the stand out sector for me. It has climbing from 6a to 8c, from vertical to crazily steep and has plenty of shade. Grades are generally stiff and you have to pull hard; there are lots of tufas and therefore lots of knee bars, but there are also lots of slopers too, so the climbing is always very pumpy. I've been captivated by the place since the early days of equipping back in 2009, despite my ego getting a severe kicking on more than one occasion, I have more unfinished projects there than anywhere else! Occasionally I do manage to complete something though.</div><div><br /></div><div>Early in September 2021, I was inspired to try a very steep 8a/+ called Malaxe, after watching a German climber, called Maria, who looked very strong and solid on the moves. I went up twice that day, but didn't really find the methods for the hardest sections. It rained heavily overnight, the route got wet and it was easy to use that as an excuse to walk away and forget about it. </div><div><br /></div><div>Climbing is sometimes like that, you have to be really motivated to put in a lot of effort when you're trying something close to your limit. There are days when things seem too much like hard work, but there are also those magical days when the planets align, gravity is low, and everything seems effortless.</div><div><br /></div><div>Fast forward 18 months and we were back at St Léger. After the dry, mild winter Malaxe was totally dry, which is very rare for that time of year. Time to man up and get stuck in properly. As it turned out, there were 2 other climbers trying the route around the same time. Sharing beta with Mick and Alma was great fun and inevitably saved time, there was a really relaxed vibe at the crag as each of us got steadily closer and closer to sending. In the end I found Mick's beta most useful: a cunning left heel/toe and right hand sloper, on the first crux, and a left middle finger mono undercut (easier to take with fat fingers than the normal undercut) at the start of the second crux near the top. It took me a long time to get the first crux dialled but, fortunately, the first time I got through it I managed to link all the way to the top. </div><div><br /></div><div>Succeeding on Malaxe felt like a high point and brought me intense feelings of joy and pleasure that lasted several days. However, it wouldn't have been possible without the encouragement of Elaine, patiently holding the other end of the rope. So a massive "thank you" to her. Thanks also to Blaise for his vision and equipping the route.</div><div><br /></div><div>After Malaxe, we spent a lot more time at La Baleine. There were some more successes and, of course, some frustrating failures. That's climbing: there are good days and bad days, there are ups and downs; a bit like life in general. </div><div><br /></div><div>Wonderful to spend time at the crag with Michaela and Roman (Czech/Bonnieux), Cathy and Seb (every crag in France, Spain, Italy....!), Mick (France), Alma (Mexico), Filipe (Portugal), Vilja (Finland), Gaetan (Bretagne) and Aurel and Malin (France/Germany/Australia). Good to see Tansy and Keefe and Kev and Becca too.</div><div><br /></div><div>All uncredited photos by Elaine.</div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjZOVeE_N5H_aeCYxFZdE73_wVWogltaiXMCbmm6BlmjLvmNujLFKyA_0n5ZFdh-DRAvMKIkpmREEUkDdN0o-p00JJgmdL4d7rhA8eTQi36OUXIkRMBmIZ_j0AkRM5CmQnbybIFIow_WeQZGhATXUKOgTJXKR4_51g9JcPBPiS4T5hN3xHi-8LBoxTE" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjZOVeE_N5H_aeCYxFZdE73_wVWogltaiXMCbmm6BlmjLvmNujLFKyA_0n5ZFdh-DRAvMKIkpmREEUkDdN0o-p00JJgmdL4d7rhA8eTQi36OUXIkRMBmIZ_j0AkRM5CmQnbybIFIow_WeQZGhATXUKOgTJXKR4_51g9JcPBPiS4T5hN3xHi-8LBoxTE" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1st look at Malaxe in 2021 (photo by Maria)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiZ_1f0q0jbP2TXZR3pn8yc6onR9nCIrLG1o2IEBTWHQ13ouKZTVVnYEDuVHydPXsfiEueWBsdQ1OkumrDC7CmTOWTqh-oleI9EY9ZPurXcW1MwSAETJWNwtPzB2EfhabP6-E_sLeoaNBjbaH3Ic5BlHMnQec99eB_cmqBY5SYcRh2Onzub_dHK4IzX" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiZ_1f0q0jbP2TXZR3pn8yc6onR9nCIrLG1o2IEBTWHQ13ouKZTVVnYEDuVHydPXsfiEueWBsdQ1OkumrDC7CmTOWTqh-oleI9EY9ZPurXcW1MwSAETJWNwtPzB2EfhabP6-E_sLeoaNBjbaH3Ic5BlHMnQec99eB_cmqBY5SYcRh2Onzub_dHK4IzX" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elaine divvying out the wine (photo by Mike)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEivooCXFWoHjEFHPsolmnSsEOEOQM0D66FBf9yIRuB0mGWVnMfkv1d5WiYx3I360r184uznEiMFjQFJIjYMPerPXVVPfXojK9XSN1BHl79kjV7aZrTaIMGW4mWVMgHOs58AeQmC6JIVMJ3aVGBZN6xIFYci1VerK7PrAZ4kt9wi4NAkDGw4XJRaQYe3" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEivooCXFWoHjEFHPsolmnSsEOEOQM0D66FBf9yIRuB0mGWVnMfkv1d5WiYx3I360r184uznEiMFjQFJIjYMPerPXVVPfXojK9XSN1BHl79kjV7aZrTaIMGW4mWVMgHOs58AeQmC6JIVMJ3aVGBZN6xIFYci1VerK7PrAZ4kt9wi4NAkDGw4XJRaQYe3" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aurel, Malin and their two lovely daughters</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjQT3hJgZvO4pS1x_ek3oGmVxrmWcZnfFYAQvzE5tsojlTqTkUCmKYPFDJhF8S-yBBC37F5yuvOOuyzpgp_s3GTEuDicC59MNXOnkI3a-DIAyMMh8hhFbKJLY9EEF51Y5eneq7IwGqhudFgbq_2QrBk-3bZD2opAV5SDWOJ53bE9TRUFsLN5XKls2-F" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjQT3hJgZvO4pS1x_ek3oGmVxrmWcZnfFYAQvzE5tsojlTqTkUCmKYPFDJhF8S-yBBC37F5yuvOOuyzpgp_s3GTEuDicC59MNXOnkI3a-DIAyMMh8hhFbKJLY9EEF51Y5eneq7IwGqhudFgbq_2QrBk-3bZD2opAV5SDWOJ53bE9TRUFsLN5XKls2-F" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keefe n Ruff</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhcz9Musz0Boq-eOHArzNRXqr-kh2bRCNpYmDQKbgBmfiOcDqrn62n_iQl7q8dHSsfVYvukPPgcQ50-EvdC2c0ELAgijuZqXZiTxhIBewyzBr0Xo3ouTPu2v7-rfrejjiXldIpyKHdxU6orcsRGDnS6cvCbpRiLRA6M7ob-B5xSfwDmH2Wr1bGzM0Dm" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhcz9Musz0Boq-eOHArzNRXqr-kh2bRCNpYmDQKbgBmfiOcDqrn62n_iQl7q8dHSsfVYvukPPgcQ50-EvdC2c0ELAgijuZqXZiTxhIBewyzBr0Xo3ouTPu2v7-rfrejjiXldIpyKHdxU6orcsRGDnS6cvCbpRiLRA6M7ob-B5xSfwDmH2Wr1bGzM0Dm" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tansy n Keefe</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiKsdOhlwHbdUW7mD4CGbsYtHAYXpjhpa5ydfe0wv2ahGbZNriZEOGbcsM7H9_fs-CCCpATgwbIKIg-K_DHsXpGKhz45ZEQi9-Wn06QiyqT2y9I9snJw2WR485BeDVyGVsOUCJGK_itMuCH36Jk89LPB8R75Ujc1m2vPQDMh-fph7-EyDRzQ5bvUdYf" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiKsdOhlwHbdUW7mD4CGbsYtHAYXpjhpa5ydfe0wv2ahGbZNriZEOGbcsM7H9_fs-CCCpATgwbIKIg-K_DHsXpGKhz45ZEQi9-Wn06QiyqT2y9I9snJw2WR485BeDVyGVsOUCJGK_itMuCH36Jk89LPB8R75Ujc1m2vPQDMh-fph7-EyDRzQ5bvUdYf" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A tight fit (photo by Kev)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh_wKFYECVM3iC1ln90gtUiKM3dM8fVa64WOHZ3BFz3V7pRFX8itp_ihU7UCAf8qvRujQGxBm9ZtDa-rCT2OusRwdrj8-TnmXaymw69XnfS_UJOJxyRxGYCloUaMoSL0jf9HbEFHYCmmwoN1pvDfbj5GbiDIVSMx7ldHL66RglFWCtqEFfTBf3F-AaG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1920" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh_wKFYECVM3iC1ln90gtUiKM3dM8fVa64WOHZ3BFz3V7pRFX8itp_ihU7UCAf8qvRujQGxBm9ZtDa-rCT2OusRwdrj8-TnmXaymw69XnfS_UJOJxyRxGYCloUaMoSL0jf9HbEFHYCmmwoN1pvDfbj5GbiDIVSMx7ldHL66RglFWCtqEFfTBf3F-AaG" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Filipe</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEipAv7aUOa3OHLpkQGGVsRDldvEKyFc9kVHv_nHAl7xEDOY8jMTlTdZUcOExmgOFdvNaHqaRqZnpmPE45K1TYu2hNMhs65dIdcDS0J1FT0r4rPeFKw43IKIsXtbxiTpF_ENlPsBjGjMxO3YP_SSt0AZ1GdrRFpMe7GMR7zqPjSzj8Bhla5UfFAJeowH" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1920" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEipAv7aUOa3OHLpkQGGVsRDldvEKyFc9kVHv_nHAl7xEDOY8jMTlTdZUcOExmgOFdvNaHqaRqZnpmPE45K1TYu2hNMhs65dIdcDS0J1FT0r4rPeFKw43IKIsXtbxiTpF_ENlPsBjGjMxO3YP_SSt0AZ1GdrRFpMe7GMR7zqPjSzj8Bhla5UfFAJeowH" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaetan</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhr9OODDw43crwooebBAArj3TV6OYNNdVc7A-wUEtBD7EBVdk-PvFpByRSAjnLiPt5KzXZyJffI_wrPP85-tuhlEcv_nxLXBjMoQTyW3IAR4xFmvIoku65N7tGRf5DJzlmBC41LtVlXRu2pyDM-mPVvzI0OPCUFHMWUnM0PJjqsLP0X8aUai0XNRJHC" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1920" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhr9OODDw43crwooebBAArj3TV6OYNNdVc7A-wUEtBD7EBVdk-PvFpByRSAjnLiPt5KzXZyJffI_wrPP85-tuhlEcv_nxLXBjMoQTyW3IAR4xFmvIoku65N7tGRf5DJzlmBC41LtVlXRu2pyDM-mPVvzI0OPCUFHMWUnM0PJjqsLP0X8aUai0XNRJHC" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vilja</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjEaP2WOm0thEtdUqER7BTRRbdtTXyE2my5pjk5ReGumdG-8Lm5Df47E8BZ1KnxTgpFkkkTrUyB_-OUHsDlTFs3KtE5gYBJnFVN-zAW0a5sxAZHIkCduHZFfRzQfhwlNCFqvi-oKlBfLZYUSYR7_vAv2l_8BBnQ5Ws4YsVL7HIb1kzRc8i2XgrjxpnK" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1920" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjEaP2WOm0thEtdUqER7BTRRbdtTXyE2my5pjk5ReGumdG-8Lm5Df47E8BZ1KnxTgpFkkkTrUyB_-OUHsDlTFs3KtE5gYBJnFVN-zAW0a5sxAZHIkCduHZFfRzQfhwlNCFqvi-oKlBfLZYUSYR7_vAv2l_8BBnQ5Ws4YsVL7HIb1kzRc8i2XgrjxpnK" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kev</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjY553qEeVHSoGHAk4Tf2Fp_IBH87rtyDv0wByPtD7DNGRgi3J8xbvyaLVEw95g1doXbSioa9QT0mPvMMPPNwOnE0hEiXBM0wnM--fgjOe1_lodhGgOqYmoHjTsK-togOadR6VuYj0fBUpVZV0twFdhFYgvTHNOQ_cje7P-F_nFqXcB_87v10kQOeCs" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1920" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjY553qEeVHSoGHAk4Tf2Fp_IBH87rtyDv0wByPtD7DNGRgi3J8xbvyaLVEw95g1doXbSioa9QT0mPvMMPPNwOnE0hEiXBM0wnM--fgjOe1_lodhGgOqYmoHjTsK-togOadR6VuYj0fBUpVZV0twFdhFYgvTHNOQ_cje7P-F_nFqXcB_87v10kQOeCs" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alma</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEixo1HF9Sr3rjttRKJeTagXU6noX549Hi-kPrXoXJc1_JH4zwaSCFx23CzceRs5sekBMnUYTvBJ8tamFFX5unMJnMs0e3mTq58qiDGStgKcv8e9K84nuxRbQO92Ino87_4VRw7_qi2v0bgGPjeFaCjwy70jLASgzEex3qcw5Kq9DxeeBHH1ONxPGrVA" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1920" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEixo1HF9Sr3rjttRKJeTagXU6noX549Hi-kPrXoXJc1_JH4zwaSCFx23CzceRs5sekBMnUYTvBJ8tamFFX5unMJnMs0e3mTq58qiDGStgKcv8e9K84nuxRbQO92Ino87_4VRw7_qi2v0bgGPjeFaCjwy70jLASgzEex3qcw5Kq9DxeeBHH1ONxPGrVA" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michaela on Ma loi (same start as Malaxe) </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgUNbcn39-jaYE2Nx9X1bmCn8dLUdbXrbkVjs9O44S4YjSzuLtDZx9J5sE6AfpbAGK8lZueAdOLonjRfXH8hlJ24lYIKO7mW90zS8n5DU8IPyjwaAtDrUaKh2DiIHnzQEFjs-C0PABrRgUekcwcosPguIn42-_I1mnrof3LJT_aBExw0sh53WD7yDOu" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1920" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgUNbcn39-jaYE2Nx9X1bmCn8dLUdbXrbkVjs9O44S4YjSzuLtDZx9J5sE6AfpbAGK8lZueAdOLonjRfXH8hlJ24lYIKO7mW90zS8n5DU8IPyjwaAtDrUaKh2DiIHnzQEFjs-C0PABrRgUekcwcosPguIn42-_I1mnrof3LJT_aBExw0sh53WD7yDOu" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michaela high on Ma Loi</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj0WJQLcqKqKBZjNWm48swpLSoJa8R3N3cSvypvjkKOBFfLA7oj1nQaAXmziSx1NOgaIxR1DjAiGylNYNW08DK6YrJx1CED51NtLmZLFKIQSSy88OTPT4sK2uCVe0ngBVKB77GfncyMnV4TKXk9dN3f-yqEDoEIt4HmUHH29LVol6oa0z00QMbgtOUw" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1920" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj0WJQLcqKqKBZjNWm48swpLSoJa8R3N3cSvypvjkKOBFfLA7oj1nQaAXmziSx1NOgaIxR1DjAiGylNYNW08DK6YrJx1CED51NtLmZLFKIQSSy88OTPT4sK2uCVe0ngBVKB77GfncyMnV4TKXk9dN3f-yqEDoEIt4HmUHH29LVol6oa0z00QMbgtOUw" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aurel attempting to onsight Malaxe</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgg4tmq2L7Fd5RMPi9FOPrVusbqlZMTbO6_DIflVawNIeoTFkkqp8jMgllKo8e7gPXxkcMnxUdN0n92gOt7btjehzv-r0dsJhVeGKd2hUQl79S_8jEY7-hKmPvFd_kk_7r6IpucvIyfg4wpnx3os09-TbOaEjeIQBR4DazpVdaMKVk0C1pbj4aFYB2b" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgg4tmq2L7Fd5RMPi9FOPrVusbqlZMTbO6_DIflVawNIeoTFkkqp8jMgllKo8e7gPXxkcMnxUdN0n92gOt7btjehzv-r0dsJhVeGKd2hUQl79S_8jEY7-hKmPvFd_kk_7r6IpucvIyfg4wpnx3os09-TbOaEjeIQBR4DazpVdaMKVk0C1pbj4aFYB2b" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mick redpointing L'Hyponténuse, which crosses Malaxe</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-61185958310038241232022-11-21T07:45:00.013-08:002022-11-22T11:09:47.284-08:00What have us pensioners been up to this year? <p>Not written anything, for over a year. Not because I had nothing to write about, but mostly because I've been getting fed up of social media and the tendency of drawing attention to oneself. However, this year we've been to lots of places (many of them new), done loads of climbing, met up with several old friends and made many new ones. Undoubtedly it's been a cracking year.</p><p>Lourmarin in frosty January, last time was in the early 90s.</p><p>Reguchillo, Mula, El Queso and La Muela during a few wet weeks in February and March. At La Muela we met up with super keen wads Luken Hernandez and Penny Scully (and their crazy chicos Soca and Solo, who entertained Ruff). At Mula we spent a few lovely days with our old friends Eddie and Mandy Martinez, who were enjoying cycling in the area. Sadly, that was the last time we saw Mandy; tragically she passed away in June. </p><p>Climbing at home and Oltra Finale (in Italy) in April and May, and doing my 8a+ training route for the 100th time.</p><p>La Baleine, at St Leger, in May and June, sharing some tufa tips with Kev Avery and meeting up with life long friends Al and Barb Stewart. Also hanging out at the crag with Yogi and Jagna (from Canada), Matt and Anna (from Australia) and Bertrand (Toulouse) and Kristy (Chamonix).</p><p>Escaping from the summer heat to Switzerland; climbing at Van d'en Haut in July with Dave and Rhian (stand out route: L'ete Indien), meeting lots of friendly Swiss climbers (especially Haf, from Bethesda, and Sylvan) and hooking up with Twid. (Last time we climbed together was a weekend in 1990, I led Wreath of deadly nightshade, on North Stack Wall, and he led Authentic desire on Cloggy, so long ago that Twid actually had hair!)</p><p>We returned home for a week at the beginning of August to help Garreth Scott install his first Digital Training Board in France, here at Art Bloc in Nice.</p><p>Joining up with the Chadster, Ben and Karyl for perfect conditions at Simplon Dorf in August.</p><p>September: climbing Triste Lune, a dream route in the Verdon. Lots of new routes in the Vercors (and meeting up with Ian and Judith, a lovely couple from Nottingham).</p><p>Returning to St Leger in September and October, making the most of the unusually quiet and dry crags. Stand out route being Le désespoir des singes.</p><p>Revisting Carros, after 22 years, to sample Manu's excellent new routes in October. Phil Ralph and Pete Blackburn (friends from Elaine's time at I M Marsh in Liverpool) came to stay and sample the climbing in the area.</p><p>And finally 3 wonderful weeks in Rodellar in November, simply because Tanya Meredith and Anna Gilyeat lured us across with tales of quiet and dry crags (normally Rodellar is understandably far from quiet). Also great to spend time with Steve Crowe and Karin Magog.</p><p>It's great to be back home and bouldering at Art Bloc. However I have injured a miniscus in my left knee, which needs attention. First rdv with Patrick Vialli (our amazing sports physio) is in a couple of days.</p><p>Special thanks to Eric and Edith, our lovely neighbours, for looking after our house when we've been away.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9OIYgYr66Gb54qrK2BENETrwGBrUI30l9xnwNdNCOuK0S4vEKW5exZPDPsfNKY-T5ukxL2YgRaXvOmsSf_WTwHx7nHH-v6TF8hof-C8PabCXwKfeRavenykrZ2WfD_YT_tn5stHOZxsEe4O4Sq45E1hgK5t7MOSgx8SVduXnmDRSShmJcLG2F2JN5/s2000/IMG-20221121-WA0001.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9OIYgYr66Gb54qrK2BENETrwGBrUI30l9xnwNdNCOuK0S4vEKW5exZPDPsfNKY-T5ukxL2YgRaXvOmsSf_WTwHx7nHH-v6TF8hof-C8PabCXwKfeRavenykrZ2WfD_YT_tn5stHOZxsEe4O4Sq45E1hgK5t7MOSgx8SVduXnmDRSShmJcLG2F2JN5/s320/IMG-20221121-WA0001.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPh-KGSimHDRfkkQkdC-LLp_07b_XDRJ9trccEJW8bBGT-bzhJtWknhtgVRCS59FJ_wxOEuNfCzYP2xwymNe0SF3na6u5af3cUxt5soIpyrD3viq12LMkoWncCFbxDquhgX02igEnejGAMjv2tnVSDiA6Zd9XysQ0HNky4YJxpOLeE9PO7-yWKk3d/s1600/IMG-20221118-WA0003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPh-KGSimHDRfkkQkdC-LLp_07b_XDRJ9trccEJW8bBGT-bzhJtWknhtgVRCS59FJ_wxOEuNfCzYP2xwymNe0SF3na6u5af3cUxt5soIpyrD3viq12LMkoWncCFbxDquhgX02igEnejGAMjv2tnVSDiA6Zd9XysQ0HNky4YJxpOLeE9PO7-yWKk3d/s320/IMG-20221118-WA0003.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-4685492272917459592021-10-31T10:44:00.000-07:002021-10-31T10:44:15.643-07:00Climbing and the dark side of social media<p>A very long time ago, when the internet was a new thing and before social media had arrived. Imagine being a teenage climber, living many miles from the centre of the Universe, ie. Sheffield, climbing on obscure crags in the South Lakes, usually with your brother and often belayed by your dad. The chances are you're not going to see many other climbers (or be "seen" by many other climbers) but you're keen to progress and get better. Basically you're climbing well below the radar in a total backwater. It's the way it is, what you're used to. It doesn't matter anyway because you climb entirely for yourself. That's what climbing is all about, right?</p><p>Imagine being that same person in 1990, reading about the most important ascent in the world at that time, Ben Moon has just climbed "Hubble". Unlike most of us, this person is totally inspired and decides that he wants to follow in Ben's footsteps. He embarks upon a serious training schedule to get fit enough to climb "Hubble". He's geeky, unassuming and a bit shy but totally obsessed. He actually measures all the dimensions of "Hubble" and builds a replica in his parents' garage, reducing the size of the holds as he gets stronger. He rarely climbs outside, because he is so focused on training in his garage, besides he doesn't have a car and there aren't many locals to climb with anyway. On the days when he is getting close to repeating "Hubble" his dad drives patiently, whilst he warms up in the car during the long journey south to Ravens Tor. They always set off early to make the best of the cool conditions and after a few goes (and some progress) they're usually packing up by the time other climbers arrive at the crag. After a long time and a huge amount of effort and commitment eventually this "outsider" succeeds and realises his dream, he has just made the 3rd ascent of "Hubble". Respect! But he doesn't expect any respect or praise because he climbs for himself remember, he's not interested in being famous, he's just totally happy because he's really enjoyed the whole process, all the highs and lows during the last 4 years. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RZUM0ynVmOI/YX7VU5jsW1I/AAAAAAAACoU/Bhi5RzFMhNgArpU1_4snThbk_ACH_twagCLcBGAsYHQ/s970/Hubble.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="970" height="234" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RZUM0ynVmOI/YX7VU5jsW1I/AAAAAAAACoU/Bhi5RzFMhNgArpU1_4snThbk_ACH_twagCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h234/Hubble.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben Moon climbing Hubble in 1990 (Ben Moon collection).</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></p><p>Our young climber continues to develop his local limestone crags, always pushing standards higher but always under the radar. He even gets taken to France ('95) and Germany ('96) by us, where he enjoys playing on "Super Plafond" and "Action Direct", there's no pressure to actually do them, he's just happy to test himself on the individual moves (which admittedly seemed a bit odd to us at the time, but each to their own, we thought). </p><p>The years pass, our young climber is now grown up, at last he has a career, he's very happily married and he's a loving father too. He's continued to put up desperate problems on his local crags but he still operates under the radar, his friends think he's a legend and his hardest problems have achieved mythical status. </p><p>However times have changed, we're now living in the digital age, climbing has changed and there are very few of us who practice our passion discreetly. Many of us have become narcissistic and constantly striving for fame. It's not uncommon to video yourself as you work on your latest project, edit it and post it on your favourite social media platform(s) as soon as you have succeeded, where you can get instant recognition from your friends. Not only that, there are endless possibilities to easily troll people you disagree with or you don't believe, often anonymously and without censorship from these websites. No wonder we live in an era of fake news and conspiracy theories.</p><p>Sadly, such is the setting whereby some younger (and some not so young) climbers have been casting doubts regarding the validity of some of my friend's hardest ascents. How dare they? Who do they think they are? What gives them the right to question someone's climbing achievements from almost thirty years ago, just because there's no video footage or nobody witnessed the ascent or some hotshot isn't strong enough to pull on the holds? Climbing is so unimportant really, and many of us choose to climb to escape from adhering to any definition of a normal life. However, I have only recently found out about the drivel and hatred that has been written on various forums over the years regarding some of my friend's climbing achievements (including the 3rd ascent of "Hubble"). I am totally appalled by this and believe that some have gone way too far with their character assassination of him. They should be ashamed of themselves, but I doubt they will ever apologise for all the hurt they have caused. I have no doubt that my friend did these climbs (including "Hubble", despite not seeing him actually do it). His word is enough for me. End of story.</p>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-90137791476462581742021-08-18T02:41:00.001-07:002021-08-20T05:25:05.244-07:00Et dieu créa La Ramirole<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D7IFN6EVJ6E/YRzVZBWWYRI/AAAAAAAACnY/IuePUMmCGwAr6dEt7-61_6xxMTnKaiNVACLcBGAsYHQ/s960/FB_IMG_1629275459274.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D7IFN6EVJ6E/YRzVZBWWYRI/AAAAAAAACnY/IuePUMmCGwAr6dEt7-61_6xxMTnKaiNVACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FB_IMG_1629275459274.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Whilst we were climbing in La Drôme, a couple of weeks ago, we heard that the approach to La Ramirole (in the Gorges du Verdon) had recently been improved and was much easier. Previously it was exhausting getting to and from the crag with Ruff. I had to make the descent (via abseils, a via ferrata and handlines) with my sack and rope, leave them at the bottom and then return to pick up Ruff, put her in a large rucksack and descend again. At the end of the day the whole process had to be reversed. So La Ramirole was complicated. Plus it wasn't a good crag for Elaine, as you need to be climbing <b>at least 8a</b> to get the most out of it.<div><br /></div><div>So, I got in touch with Seb Bouin to find out, then we went to check it out with Ruff on a rest day. Sure enough, there's only one short tricky section now and the rest is straight forward. Game on for a return and to settle the score with <i>Et dieu créa la flamme</i> (a magnificent 8a+ I had tried a few times in 2016, before my shoulder injury and subsequent surgery and recuperation). I was definitely psyched and feeling up for it this time. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HNCXG0AWKPo/YRzVQKUg9bI/AAAAAAAACnU/XmHXP1JrvIkV2OauGj5sNOyqUGTFA52eACLcBGAsYHQ/s960/FB_IMG_1629275512643.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HNCXG0AWKPo/YRzVQKUg9bI/AAAAAAAACnU/XmHXP1JrvIkV2OauGj5sNOyqUGTFA52eACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FB_IMG_1629275512643.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0M87Ae8pyNM/YRzVOGX5jKI/AAAAAAAACnQ/h7oFZWthOwAjDuC-ogl9qdElraCl2GSVACLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210818-WA0000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0M87Ae8pyNM/YRzVOGX5jKI/AAAAAAAACnQ/h7oFZWthOwAjDuC-ogl9qdElraCl2GSVACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210818-WA0000.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nT3AytzL6PM/YRzVLQPOGQI/AAAAAAAACnM/w76gUK9-9lcJPumWGbvkTj61IeynyudvgCLcBGAsYHQ/s960/FB_IMG_1629275459274.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nT3AytzL6PM/YRzVLQPOGQI/AAAAAAAACnM/w76gUK9-9lcJPumWGbvkTj61IeynyudvgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FB_IMG_1629275459274.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>There were a number of reasons why I gave up 5 years ago, for example: it was too hot, it was too humid, the skin on my fingers was too sore, there were too many strong climbers using it as their warm up, and so on, yawn yawn. But mostly I gave up because I wasn't good enough. However, I felt that with a different mindset, and being in better shape, the outcome would be different this time round. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HQFes4OAYeo/YRzUxw0GKqI/AAAAAAAACm4/L9eUCRMoX7okyF2mIygEwmIHrmvI7MMKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s960/FB_IMG_1629275449537.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HQFes4OAYeo/YRzUxw0GKqI/AAAAAAAACm4/L9eUCRMoX7okyF2mIygEwmIHrmvI7MMKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FB_IMG_1629275449537.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wVJt5w4z2Ds/YRzUwCleCTI/AAAAAAAACm0/fk_JkabvxqobFJxkxWar-PbgqFLSM8NbwCLcBGAsYHQ/s960/FB_IMG_1629275430037.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wVJt5w4z2Ds/YRzUwCleCTI/AAAAAAAACm0/fk_JkabvxqobFJxkxWar-PbgqFLSM8NbwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FB_IMG_1629275430037.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-evr3Q8JB2AM/YRzUusmymmI/AAAAAAAACmw/wuiSoKUDcXsedeOcbNHSdSHk02jiJPq-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s960/FB_IMG_1629275420931.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-evr3Q8JB2AM/YRzUusmymmI/AAAAAAAACmw/wuiSoKUDcXsedeOcbNHSdSHk02jiJPq-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FB_IMG_1629275420931.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hzcf91sY77s/YRzUtNRo-TI/AAAAAAAACms/-S1SBUqClqoN8RA_Hlo5hHPgVPdkOtWjQCLcBGAsYHQ/s960/FB_IMG_1629275402705.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hzcf91sY77s/YRzUtNRo-TI/AAAAAAAACms/-S1SBUqClqoN8RA_Hlo5hHPgVPdkOtWjQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FB_IMG_1629275402705.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S6A8cKFHqiw/YRzUqxZs75I/AAAAAAAACmo/3MWx9JBuiWY63WD-74O-GNm-1ypUbCNPACLcBGAsYHQ/s960/FB_IMG_1629275377209.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S6A8cKFHqiw/YRzUqxZs75I/AAAAAAAACmo/3MWx9JBuiWY63WD-74O-GNm-1ypUbCNPACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/FB_IMG_1629275377209.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p><i>Et dieu créa la flamme</i> was equipped by Antonin Rhodes about 10 or so years ago, it is considered to be one of the most beautiful routes of it's grade at La Ramirole (and probably the whole of the Gorges du Verdon). It consists of 40 metres of sustained and very steep climbing mostly on tufas, sparsely protected by only 14 bolts (it definitely feels run-out). Surprisingly there are lots of good holds and lots of kneebars too, but the climbing is always very physical because the holds are usually far apart, and there is also a tricky fingery section between the floor and the 2nd bolt. Overall it's a great physical and mental challenge that is sheer bliss to try and eventually succeed on. </p><p>The 1st day was cool and windy, perfect for working the moves and making links on the easier sections. On the 2nd day I went from the 2nd bolt all the way to the top, so it was definitely possible (unfortunately I hadn't worked out the best sequence for the difficult start). The 3rd day was really far too hot and doesn't really count. However it went like a dream on my 1st attempt on day 4, belayed by Pete Chadwick and after only warming up on the 6c.</p><p>Thanks to Elaine, Santi Garcia and Julien Bouquinaud for the belays and encouragement over the 4 days spent there during the last week. It's a dream come true and I still can't believe it!</p><p>Climbing <i>Et dieu créa la flamme</i> is up there with other memorable days spent in the Verdon, such as:</p><p><i>La Demande</i> with Elaine in '83, taking all day, finishing in the dark and having to walk all the way back to La Palud;</p><p><i>Dingomaniaque</i> with Joe Picalli, also in '83;</p><p><i>Le Triomphe d'Eros</i> with Al Simpson, again in '83;</p><p><i>L'Ange en Decomposition</i> with Simon King, in '84;</p><p><i>Surveiller et Punir</i> with Dave Turnbull, also in '84;</p><p>Elaine and I hot on the heels of Jim Hewson and Pete Chadwick on <i>Rêve de Fer, again in '84</i>;</p><p>a 1 day/1st red-point ascent of <i>Seance Tenant</i> (belayed by my ever patient and long suffering wife Elaine in '97).</p><p>Such a stunning place to climb and so many happy memories. However, I have another score to settle with <i>Triste Lune</i> over at Petit Eycharme sometime. Bring it on!</p><p>Thanks to Elaine and Pete for the photos.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uw0oDWwF59s/YRzVlfwH6jI/AAAAAAAACno/0ga5yLyv31YA_uvyXDpdJDpqVvAk2OqrgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210818_102532.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><i><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1322" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uw0oDWwF59s/YRzVlfwH6jI/AAAAAAAACno/0ga5yLyv31YA_uvyXDpdJDpqVvAk2OqrgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210818_102532.jpg" width="207" /></i></a></div><br /><p></p></div>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-42493586997390618212021-07-11T03:55:00.009-07:002021-07-11T05:05:36.181-07:00Orpierre and Figols<p>There hasn't been much to write about this year, due to the Covid-19 restrictions on travelling. However, we did get away to Orpierre, in May for ten days or so, to climb at Paroi Jaune. Thanks to Simon King for the recommendation. The routes there are long (up to 40 metres) and gently overhanging on edges, pockets and lots of slopey kind of holds. You have to go and do Misere (7a), Caroline (7b), Trop Pure (7c+) and Lost (8a). There are some more recent routes further right, most of them 7a to 7b, which are worthwhile to extend your stay. However, to the left, there is a great slabby wall covered in 5's and 6's, which are all very good. The must do route being Vive les femmes (6a), which looks more like 7b when you see someone on it from Paroi Jaune!</p><p>We've recently returned from the Spanish Pyrenees where we revisited Las Devotas and Rincon de Sin (the walk up and down hadn't got any easier!). Whilst in the Bielsa area, we visited a crag at Liguerre del Cinca. We were recommended by Jean Claude (from Team BTR) to do his route called Marysa, a really good 7c with a bouldery start and then tufa heaven for 25 metres. The crag takes some effort to find and was rather hot, so it would be a great place in autumn. Marysa is the easiest route, so it's hard to warm up properly, most of the other routes are 8a+ (Chorrera Marron looks rather like Dinosaur at Seynes and equally good).</p><p>The weather was really weird, with lots of rain. In fact, the whole time we were there, Foz de la Canal was soaked. So we moved on quickly to Figols, in the Alt Urgell valley. We'd seen some amazing photos of our friends Marco and Marta, from Andorra, attempting their projects in a big cave (called Cova de les Gralles) and just had to go and check it out for ourselves. It proved a great place to climb in summer, with coolish temps and mostly good holds. However, the walk is a steep 20 to 30 minute slog uphill. In summer the sun doesn't shine into the back of the cave but your belayer would be suffering from about 17H, whilst the less steep walls on either side are fully in the sun (left side from around 16H and right side from around 18H), so early starts are recommended. Most days we had the place to ourselves, how good is that? Stand out routes were Gigita (6b+), Limonchella (6c+), Catalina (7b), Clasica (7b), Sensacion de Pinzar (7c), Kingline (7c+) and Gambusina Line (8a). There are some really steep, thrutchy 7c cracks (reminiscent of Gogarth Main Cliff) in the back of the cave for masochists (eg Sucina, Virginia and Amazonia). George Smith would love them!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m0_M3BHYzOg/YOrceHdv9gI/AAAAAAAACmE/qkG-SdZAgIkFxF8GY05qJ7YoN_gWUS0TgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210624_103923.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m0_M3BHYzOg/YOrceHdv9gI/AAAAAAAACmE/qkG-SdZAgIkFxF8GY05qJ7YoN_gWUS0TgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210624_103923.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from Cova de les Gralles (carefully taken to avoid showing the quarry).</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zeFN4j8v_x0/YOrcby151vI/AAAAAAAACmA/qS-6CxanXFYrtFK1VoI2MPNVjlv0gOk_ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210624_104318.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zeFN4j8v_x0/YOrcby151vI/AAAAAAAACmA/qS-6CxanXFYrtFK1VoI2MPNVjlv0gOk_ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210624_104318.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-su0QGiAQU6I/YOrcZ2_31UI/AAAAAAAACl8/3HSQ395oIjoFrJc8xkF0Bw224TbRiE3IgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210711_134702.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1455" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-su0QGiAQU6I/YOrcZ2_31UI/AAAAAAAACl8/3HSQ395oIjoFrJc8xkF0Bw224TbRiE3IgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210711_134702.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AFYXc4wBA8E/YOrcWOuPX7I/AAAAAAAACl4/vHvTeSrqqi41f1BnROR0V904kJi6CqvnACLcBGAsYHQ/s753/20210711_134430.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="753" data-original-width="494" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AFYXc4wBA8E/YOrcWOuPX7I/AAAAAAAACl4/vHvTeSrqqi41f1BnROR0V904kJi6CqvnACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210711_134430.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Whilst at Figols, we checked out some of the other crags in the area. Tres Ponts involves waiting until 17H before climbing in summer (so we didn't bother hanging around wasting time for that). Figol a l'ombre and Socol de Narieda were really disappointing (tiny crimps and slippery slopers) and I wouldn't recommend either (especially in summer!). There are obviously some harder routes at the left side of Figols a l'ombre that are classics, eg the 8a/8a+ link up looks like a must do in cooler temps. Fontanella had great connies (cool and windy) for summer, but the climbing was disappointing again (very fingery, polished and caked in chalk). However Lapsanus (30m) and Segle XIX (45m) were very good 7b+'s. I was too much of a wimp to try Aromes de Fontanella (a hard 8a) as it looked like too much effort in summer.</p><p>After spending so much time in the Vallée du Cinca (Bielsa) over the years, our impressions of Alt Urgell, by comparison, were rather disappointing. It's ugly, noisy (from the quarry opposite Cova de les Gralles and the road traffic) and the river is dirty and smelly. That said, luckily, the climbing at Cova de les Gralles is really good and it makes a great summer venue. A muerte! </p><p>Thanks Elaine for the following photos.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5J1qiHs-B3M/YOrLEQu4LhI/AAAAAAAAClg/Yhej8FVq7Ig9e-EC7PTlbvrq8sCJd_XwwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210711-WA0024.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1368" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5J1qiHs-B3M/YOrLEQu4LhI/AAAAAAAAClg/Yhej8FVq7Ig9e-EC7PTlbvrq8sCJd_XwwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0024.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A great doss spot away from the noise.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0-lfDfpUYfQ/YOrLCWvji7I/AAAAAAAAClc/A6QP7xbCu4EFCub8aLUdWjGSqsqi5gqSQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0023.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0-lfDfpUYfQ/YOrLCWvji7I/AAAAAAAAClc/A6QP7xbCu4EFCub8aLUdWjGSqsqi5gqSQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0023.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cova de les Gralles is big and steep!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9e1sJZRKmKI/YOrLAOvjEZI/AAAAAAAAClY/I0r0qbmP8QgLhcDuVjGFWyFO-HsyY0iggCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0022.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9e1sJZRKmKI/YOrLAOvjEZI/AAAAAAAAClY/I0r0qbmP8QgLhcDuVjGFWyFO-HsyY0iggCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0022.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mar on Papiandres (8a).</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rR6HDPt6tc4/YOrK93ufntI/AAAAAAAAClU/1gG77zMTTG4b9OKWHRX47AvIBIRf5qiugCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0021.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rR6HDPt6tc4/YOrK93ufntI/AAAAAAAAClU/1gG77zMTTG4b9OKWHRX47AvIBIRf5qiugCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0021.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruff and Slack at Fontanella.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3E-O62Of2WA/YOrK7mwtfgI/AAAAAAAAClQ/QzvCRsOCl44rvjHPgNHI1ziJzwwepWVkACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210711-WA0020.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3E-O62Of2WA/YOrK7mwtfgI/AAAAAAAAClQ/QzvCRsOCl44rvjHPgNHI1ziJzwwepWVkACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0020.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WSa8TGkfrz4/YOrK5WCrbXI/AAAAAAAAClI/CRAJfEml9QcuUk3gQDlWdCg-7aYvcm60QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0019.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WSa8TGkfrz4/YOrK5WCrbXI/AAAAAAAAClI/CRAJfEml9QcuUk3gQDlWdCg-7aYvcm60QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0019.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2 photos of Veterana (8a). Very appropriate!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DizOCCeGOMc/YOrK3ABdMrI/AAAAAAAAClE/WePBNJPEVfom5aRzr6KLcKoIY66d5QfiACLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0018.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DizOCCeGOMc/YOrK3ABdMrI/AAAAAAAAClE/WePBNJPEVfom5aRzr6KLcKoIY66d5QfiACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0018.jpg" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GhadlxEOzLE/YOrKzHoyQzI/AAAAAAAACk8/sP5xbUr4KsgemAsy0NF1TgkRb_3C8ylnQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0017.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GhadlxEOzLE/YOrKzHoyQzI/AAAAAAAACk8/sP5xbUr4KsgemAsy0NF1TgkRb_3C8ylnQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0017.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">6 photos of the excellent Gambusina Line (8a).</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1vSKCFz9ePM/YOrKxPjScbI/AAAAAAAACk0/fkkwBX_B5L8mhEpWQIB7lXJTaLkUx_9tQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0016.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1vSKCFz9ePM/YOrKxPjScbI/AAAAAAAACk0/fkkwBX_B5L8mhEpWQIB7lXJTaLkUx_9tQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0016.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iQXLt3y8tZw/YOrKt797iAI/AAAAAAAACkw/84Z6EQmSVkYbrEKknjI5Ul3W_0Ip5eIowCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iQXLt3y8tZw/YOrKt797iAI/AAAAAAAACkw/84Z6EQmSVkYbrEKknjI5Ul3W_0Ip5eIowCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0015.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QRk0OeUBask/YOrKrHySoUI/AAAAAAAACks/xqbKbo14j-oCaIWHwzFO7sq3dbujhT5HQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0014.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QRk0OeUBask/YOrKrHySoUI/AAAAAAAACks/xqbKbo14j-oCaIWHwzFO7sq3dbujhT5HQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0014.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-koElil23-oQ/YOrKoXT-QpI/AAAAAAAACkk/IqtSDexXfyor1S50hkJljYjLXI-Amk0wwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0013.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-koElil23-oQ/YOrKoXT-QpI/AAAAAAAACkk/IqtSDexXfyor1S50hkJljYjLXI-Amk0wwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0013.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zAqR8zxEtms/YOrKmM7HgpI/AAAAAAAACkg/UrVo6qjDvDQJwxHOQrIpzxgBaiXjSaAgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0012.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zAqR8zxEtms/YOrKmM7HgpI/AAAAAAAACkg/UrVo6qjDvDQJwxHOQrIpzxgBaiXjSaAgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0012.jpg" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RvdbOAIdIkI/YOrKj0hODrI/AAAAAAAACkc/u9hzsgL5cqMNrKSj6h5z095terajb31oACLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0011.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RvdbOAIdIkI/YOrKj0hODrI/AAAAAAAACkc/u9hzsgL5cqMNrKSj6h5z095terajb31oACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0011.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 photos of Catalina (7b).</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oWaFFL7WqCk/YOrKgAnt8JI/AAAAAAAACkU/vfdM6VK3ZgoInAjVokmo769xlN4CPPTHACLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0010.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oWaFFL7WqCk/YOrKgAnt8JI/AAAAAAAACkU/vfdM6VK3ZgoInAjVokmo769xlN4CPPTHACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3m7dle3U-Ok/YOrKclls2SI/AAAAAAAACkM/x3pEPlvMJRAc_yT85e7OeKHvRVlxYzV3ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3m7dle3U-Ok/YOrKclls2SI/AAAAAAAACkM/x3pEPlvMJRAc_yT85e7OeKHvRVlxYzV3ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0009.jpg" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-noZLlyNgvpA/YOrKa4S3MWI/AAAAAAAACkA/yJVJKop0CtkVTwYAG1u1ExJNCPq5SkX_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210711-WA0008.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-noZLlyNgvpA/YOrKa4S3MWI/AAAAAAAACkA/yJVJKop0CtkVTwYAG1u1ExJNCPq5SkX_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0008.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2 photos of Mar on Clasica (7b).</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9p47p2WlppM/YOrKYYjlR6I/AAAAAAAACj8/0ycxYrUtTMsIHJCnz_AW7HlKib2xNq-9ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210711-WA0007.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9p47p2WlppM/YOrKYYjlR6I/AAAAAAAACj8/0ycxYrUtTMsIHJCnz_AW7HlKib2xNq-9ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0007.jpg" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-buWD0ONR1Rc/YOrKWrTEbKI/AAAAAAAACj4/IylhBl17iMgLJYL2sAUQ9N_FcoJrFgi-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210711-WA0006.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-buWD0ONR1Rc/YOrKWrTEbKI/AAAAAAAACj4/IylhBl17iMgLJYL2sAUQ9N_FcoJrFgi-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0006.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4 photos of Bertrand on Kingline (7c+).</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xY4cG-N936k/YOrKU6_627I/AAAAAAAACj0/RwIl4nw4R6QmmS4l1Lj2hJkp2KdXTsoaACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210711-WA0005.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xY4cG-N936k/YOrKU6_627I/AAAAAAAACj0/RwIl4nw4R6QmmS4l1Lj2hJkp2KdXTsoaACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0005.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I-FOQg3yTgA/YOrKTVaZmqI/AAAAAAAACjw/vpN3AA97FRQwsnLik5DpctL7jzROa3HvgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210711-WA0004.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I-FOQg3yTgA/YOrKTVaZmqI/AAAAAAAACjw/vpN3AA97FRQwsnLik5DpctL7jzROa3HvgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gwfkLnGhSYo/YOrKQFr7VcI/AAAAAAAACjs/GHSIDUX83PsCateL2AVyKzyXZ3cibBhYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210711-WA0003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gwfkLnGhSYo/YOrKQFr7VcI/AAAAAAAACjs/GHSIDUX83PsCateL2AVyKzyXZ3cibBhYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0003.jpg" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3IYhwBK6Cjk/YOrKOowgmjI/AAAAAAAACjo/QDOKbRbOyYAIT9bE4L-M1FYbfloh4aeFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210711-WA0002.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3IYhwBK6Cjk/YOrKOowgmjI/AAAAAAAACjo/QDOKbRbOyYAIT9bE4L-M1FYbfloh4aeFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0002.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 photos of Jerman on Sucina Line (version 8a+).</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tDFF42GzKkc/YOrKNZfqGxI/AAAAAAAACjk/ogNjTG5Z-1wD-05I7urOTi06kODI5Y7TwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2016/IMG-20210711-WA0001.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tDFF42GzKkc/YOrKNZfqGxI/AAAAAAAACjk/ogNjTG5Z-1wD-05I7urOTi06kODI5Y7TwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0001.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QroCcOJEOBk/YOrKMDCzPyI/AAAAAAAACjg/YoueZoxTTMoLD0HzWI5IVxXbE7QtGgf_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210711-WA0000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QroCcOJEOBk/YOrKMDCzPyI/AAAAAAAACjg/YoueZoxTTMoLD0HzWI5IVxXbE7QtGgf_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210711-WA0000.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1OACRkoDtwg/YOrKKgD4wQI/AAAAAAAACjc/mFWa7Oo1fAwafX07O9SBJElmTZjup13PgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210701-WA0004.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1OACRkoDtwg/YOrKKgD4wQI/AAAAAAAACjc/mFWa7Oo1fAwafX07O9SBJElmTZjup13PgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210701-WA0004.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Always happy.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1bVi1WQvNkM/YOrKI147hUI/AAAAAAAACjY/aoDyvgFzHG083Kgv18QMfUGQ0CAvlQXLACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210701_135021.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1bVi1WQvNkM/YOrKI147hUI/AAAAAAAACjY/aoDyvgFzHG083Kgv18QMfUGQ0CAvlQXLACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210701_135021.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back to beautiful France.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-22523008923097796482021-02-20T02:47:00.012-08:002021-02-20T03:18:59.637-08:00Phil Davidson, Top Lad 22nd August 1959 - 15th February 2021<p><span style="color: white; font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: #990000;">Phil Davidson, Top Lad</span></span></p><p><span style="color: white; font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: #990000;">22nd August 1959 - 15th February 2021</span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">It began with a message from Phil
back in August 2018. Typical Phil, he just came straight out with it, no
beating about the bush. “You’re going to have to write my obituary” was how it
started, and then he went on to explain that he’d been given six months to
live. Kate (Phil’s wife) says that he described the next two and a half years
as “living with a terminal illness” and he continued to live normally, never
complaining or feeling sorry for himself. In fact you’d never believe that he
was ill at all, as he set about packing in as much as he could, he was a man on
a mission.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WqOydOhNFJU/YDDnFyYR7NI/AAAAAAAACe4/zgSXK1fKuUQEtCIgk-adwf8wxR0XqFvywCLcBGAsYHQ/s1303/RIP%2BPhil.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1303" data-original-width="977" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WqOydOhNFJU/YDDnFyYR7NI/AAAAAAAACe4/zgSXK1fKuUQEtCIgk-adwf8wxR0XqFvywCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/RIP%2BPhil.jpg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">I’ll do my best to honour his
original request. Here is the story about a remarkably talented, dedicated,
single minded and sometimes brash person who became possibly one of the best
climbers in the world for a few years back in the early 80’s. His name is
little known as he tended to operate under the radar; he didn’t put up 1st
ascents or live in Sheffield. However he should be regarded as a hero for his
no-fuss on-sight approach to hard trad climbing back in the day. Please think
of this story as a celebration of Phil’s wonderful life.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Phil was born in Manchester and
was adopted at birth by his doting parents Sid and Jean Davidson from St.
Helens. He started climbing at Pex Hill, a sandstone quarry nearby, with Dougie
Gardiner and Gaz Healey in 1975. Ken Latham recalls: “We climbed a lot together
at Pex in the early days, all of us there like a gang of mates, plenty of
banter, piss taking, and pushing each other on the routes, Phil, Gaz, his
brother Joe, Robbie Mallinson, and Chris Hunter.” He quickly developed
incredible finger strength and perfect technique to enable him to use the tiny
holds. He also worked hard on his upper body strength and flexibility, doing
lots of pull ups, press ups and leg stretching (he could do box splits without
warming up). Soon after that he was taken on several trips to North Wales by
Hugh Banner. Apparently, at the time, it was obvious that Phil had great
potential, but he had a long way to go regarding acquiring the vital skills of
rope work and placing nuts before he was able to start pushing himself. (In
fact, I don’t think Phil fully mastered the art of placing gear, he never seemed
to spend long fiddling with runners, he simply preferred to keep on going, his
ability and confidence always got him up.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">I first met Phil in the Llanberis
Pass during the incredible summer of 1976. The weather was amazing; all the
crags were dry for months. It was a wonderful time to be a teenager feeling the
call of the mountains after a hard week at work (Phil was an apprentice at
BICC). There were a few keen teams around at the same time, working their way
through the classics in Pete Hatton’s “Three Cliffs” guidebook. John Roberts,
Brian Jones, Pete White, Sandy Dobie, Mike Griffiths and I made up a group of
climbers based in North Wales. Andy Sharp, Steve Lewis, and Pete Lewis from
South Wales were usually around most weekends. And of course there were Phil
and Gaz Healey, who we called “The Psychos”, due to frequent bouts of
outrageous adolescent behaviour. Whilst it’s fair to say that we were all
climbing well, Phil quickly became much better and left us all behind when he
nonchalantly strolled up “Right Wall”, thus making the fifth ascent in 1977. It
was an amazing ascent to witness, by far the most impressive piece of climbing
I’d seen up to that point.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IGK5v_pWL6A/YDDnNpRxy1I/AAAAAAAACe8/4o7s31nRHJEUAb1Zf-A5JP5QkaWZCCQ-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1968/Phil%2BDavidson%2BRight%2BWall%2B1977%2Bphoto%2Bby%2BGavin%2BPeat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1968" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IGK5v_pWL6A/YDDnNpRxy1I/AAAAAAAACe8/4o7s31nRHJEUAb1Zf-A5JP5QkaWZCCQ-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Phil%2BDavidson%2BRight%2BWall%2B1977%2Bphoto%2Bby%2BGavin%2BPeat.jpg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Soon after Elaine and I moved to
the Merseyside area in 1980, we went round to see Phil at his parents’ house.
We were surprised to see an immaculate, shiny black and gold Ducati 900SS
parked in the corridor between the back door and the kitchen, which his mum
used to regularly dust and polish! He briefly introduced us to his lovely mum
and dad, quickly gave us a mug of tea (not full, which we referred to
afterwards as a “Davidson measure”), turned off the TV his parents were
watching and then put on The B52’s. It was such a surreal experience sitting
there listening to “Planet Claire” at full volume in his mum and dad’s living
room.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">As spring time arrived, the
weather improved and the days got longer, we joined the local climbers at Pex
in the evenings. There was a really great scene with lots of ruthless banter
and lots of encouragement too. Regulars included Joe Healey, Willy Simm, Al
Stewart, Steve Foxley, Eric Rooseberry, Pete Chadwick, Ewan McCallum, Steve
Tonks, Mark Hounslea, Steve Boote, Lew Brown, Jim Hewson, Pete Trewin and Buzz.
Phil would arrive on his motorbike and park it above the Dateline Wall. He’d
then step through a gap in the fence and announce his arrival with a humongous
burp! Then he’d down solo “The Dateline” in his motorbike leathers, with his
helmet in the crook of his elbow. We used to greet each other fondly with
“alright yer spaz” (of course that was back in the days before political
correctness). Once EB’s were laced up and he was on the rock everybody admired
and envied his climbing ability. Ken Latham recalls: “Phil was soon searching
out the blanker walls of Pex and produced outstanding problems such as Black
Magic, Main Wall and Catalepsy as well as repeating Joe’s Monobloc, and
Staminade, we mere mortals looked on in awe and sulked over to the naughty
corner. Phil always had an infectious smile and was a joy to have around,
always had a tale to tell but never boasted, watching him move on rock was
mesmerising but scared the heck out of you, climbers like that come around very
rarely, they light up the tight knit climbing community and leave you wondering
‘’what the f***, how did he do that?’’ He never said he was better than the
next guy and would give you a nod of confidence if he knew you were capable but
unsure.”<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">In the early 80’s, Phil went
across to Germany with his great friend Jim Jewel, with the intention of
finding some work. He didn’t actually stay very long but made a lifelong
friendship with Uwe Hofstaedter. True to form, he made early ascents of some of
the hardest climbs in the Frankenjura at that time, for example the classics
“Chasing the train” and “Hitchhike the plane”.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">During the next four years Phil
climbed with a number of “belay slaves”, including me. I remember watching Ron
Fawcett climbing “Sardine” at Raven Tor on the TV, the evening we arrived home
from a two week holiday in Corfu in 1982. As soon as the programme ended the
phone rang. I knew it was Phil before I picked it up. I knew what he wanted.
Next day he walked up “Sardine” whereas, being unfit after two weeks of
sunbathing, I got dragged up it. He even lowered me down into the nettles as he
was far too busy chatting away with a young hot shot called Jerry Moffatt.
Incidentally, sometime later, Jerry lent Phil his Fires so he could do
Narcissus at Froggatt.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Around the same time, Phil
repeated (on-sight of course) one of Britain’s first E7’s (Pete Gommersall’s
very bold “Death Wish” at Blue Scar), and also on-sighted “Cave Route
Right-hand” (then known as “Tiger Mountain”) at Gordale. Having found “The Cad”
and “The Long Run” both fairly straight forward, he made an on-sight attempt on
what would have been the second ascent of “The Bells! The Bells” but lowered
off the peg. Not surprisingly he made mere E5’s look like “paths”, for example
“Golden Mile” at Chee Tor and “El Coronel” at Malham. One day at Forwyn, after
leading a load of E3’s and E4’s, he soloed “Great Wall”. As if that wasn’t
enough, we then went to Pen Trwyn where we both led the soon to become classic
“Axle Attack” and “The Bloods”.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lEouKJnPIBY/YDDniuWV-MI/AAAAAAAACfI/MIJV5haSjJsj1n71g0fxJMEPKpTyqaDpgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1760/Phil%2BDavidson%2Bsoloing%2BGreat%2BWall%2BCraig%2By%2BForwyn%2B1982%2Bphoto%2Bby%2BElaine%2BOwen.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1760" data-original-width="1136" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lEouKJnPIBY/YDDniuWV-MI/AAAAAAAACfI/MIJV5haSjJsj1n71g0fxJMEPKpTyqaDpgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Phil%2BDavidson%2Bsoloing%2BGreat%2BWall%2BCraig%2By%2BForwyn%2B1982%2Bphoto%2Bby%2BElaine%2BOwen.jpg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Phil was on top form in 1984 when
I held his rope on “Obscene Gesture” (on-sight of course). A few days later he
rocked up at Chee Tor to do “Tequila Mockingbird” with Jim Hewson. Jim recalls
that Phil had to wait his turn, as there were a number of very strong Peak
climbers trying it that day. He refused to have the first bolt pre-clipped and
set off. Apparently, as he climbed higher and higher, reading the moves quickly
and climbing perfectly, the jaws of the onlookers sagged lower and lower.
Unfortunately a foot slipped right at the top and he was off (to the sound of
much cursing). One of the onlookers (a young Ben Moon) says that he was sure he
was going to do it. Phil lowered off straight away, pulled the rope, tied back
in and quickly climbed the route. Pretty impressive or what? That was the same
year he soloed “Right Wall”, not once but twice! The second time was for photos.
Who remembers that iconic poster? Who still has it? I’m sure that it has
inspired many climbers over the years. Other gobsmacking solos included
“Cockblock” and “Linden” (on-sight).</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TqycPE4mcN8/YDDnr_kT2GI/AAAAAAAACfQ/ORQwk1nU19kbFbzOHuP3PFEdFvnzqpmpQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1666/Cromlech%2Bboulders%2Bphoto%2Bby%2BKen%2BTravis.%2BThis%2Bwas%2Bused%2Bin%2Ba%2Bscience%2Btext%2Bbook%2Bto%2Bdemonstrate%2Bfriction..jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1666" data-original-width="703" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TqycPE4mcN8/YDDnr_kT2GI/AAAAAAAACfQ/ORQwk1nU19kbFbzOHuP3PFEdFvnzqpmpQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Cromlech%2Bboulders%2Bphoto%2Bby%2BKen%2BTravis.%2BThis%2Bwas%2Bused%2Bin%2Ba%2Bscience%2Btext%2Bbook%2Bto%2Bdemonstrate%2Bfriction..jpg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cZpW1hlrlK0/YDDnqio32RI/AAAAAAAACfM/Ld2-1Eq-vxIZbHNCdn3hrted6Inq9wymwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Davo%2Bsoloing%2BRight%2BWall%2B1984.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1208" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cZpW1hlrlK0/YDDnqio32RI/AAAAAAAACfM/Ld2-1Eq-vxIZbHNCdn3hrted6Inq9wymwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Davo%2Bsoloing%2BRight%2BWall%2B1984.jpg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Later that year Phil started a B
Ed (Hons) in Outdoor Education at I M Marsh teacher training college. He
stopped climbing, just like that. He suffered the embarrassment of being bottom
of the class in everything apart from climbing. So he rose to the challenge (as
to be expected) and set about getting better, much better, particularly at
white water kayaking. Within a few months he was out there with the best,
literally “pushing the boat out” (one of Phil’s favourite expressions) on the
most difficult rivers in Snowdonia, for example the Dee, Conwy, Ogwen, Glaslyn,
and the Fairy Glen. He also enjoyed late spring trips to the Alps, to kayak the
snow melt with a tight knit group of friends including Dave Howard, Steve
Priestley and Ian Walsh.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jCP5TSjInw4/YDDoVcti_uI/AAAAAAAACf8/tfNQrL-pLEEy7DDqaCx49mIMDPmE6dT9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s683/Phil%2Bkayak%2Bgear.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="683" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jCP5TSjInw4/YDDoVcti_uI/AAAAAAAACf8/tfNQrL-pLEEy7DDqaCx49mIMDPmE6dT9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Phil%2Bkayak%2Bgear.jpg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Phil really loved jazz. Charlie
Parker’s famous alto break was one of his favourites, which he aspired to play.
That was no problem to a bloke who never did things half-heartedly. He learnt
to read music and taught himself to play both the alto and tenor saxophones, so
that he could play it too. Phil also went on to play in a local soul band, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Brass Roots</i>, which several of the Pex
Hill faithful turned up to watch one night in Widnes. He was also a very
stylish skier whose knees seemed to be permanently welded together. We went
away on several trips together over the years; the week at Les Arc with Tim Lowe
was one of the most memorable, filled with loads of hard core skiing and
constant banter.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MESgGGN4YrI/YDDoInhLbxI/AAAAAAAACfs/Oc-oBuPhQbcbOFpgOVHUsUt2KlDfNN4LgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/013.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="898" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MESgGGN4YrI/YDDoInhLbxI/AAAAAAAACfs/Oc-oBuPhQbcbOFpgOVHUsUt2KlDfNN4LgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/013.jpeg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">In 1990, after a couple of years
teaching, he made a comeback (not 1992 as he has logged on UKC). However, the
sport had changed in the six years since he’d hung up his boots. Climbs had got
steeper and it had become acceptable to “work” routes before a “red-point”
ascent. Not surprisingly, Phil adapted quickly, though he often had problems
memorising moves and I usually had to shout up the beta mid crux. It was almost
as if every attempt was like an on-sight attempt. Nonetheless, he flashed
“Obsession”. The draws were in, but it was a big shock when he arrived at the
belay to find there was no quick draw to clip. Even worse, finding that the
gate of the belay karabiner was stiff and wouldn’t open! With an arm painfully
locked in the belay chain, he eventually managed to open the gate enough to
clip his harness belay loop in and finally thread the rope through. As you can
imagine, there were lots of loud Davidson expletives.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">That same summer, we camped for
ages at Gordale Farm and Phil ticked loads of the Yorkshire limestone classics,
such as: “New Dawn”, “Mescalito”, “L’Obsession”, “Defcon 3”, “Pierrepoint” and
“Man with a gun”. Unfortunately “Zoolook” proved too much for him and the magic
8a grade sadly eluded him. It was the first time I’d ever known him unable to
do something but he took it well. He did prove that he was still very handy on
bold trad though; when he made a very controlled, on-sight ascent of “Souls” in
Huntsman’s Leap (Phil has mistakenly logged that ascent as “Ghost Train” on
UKC).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Soon after he met Kate in 1992
and other time-consuming interests took over. He raced two-stroke karts and
mastered the art of clay pigeon shooting. With Parker their adored black
Labrador joining the family, who Phil trained to the gun. But there were
occasional rumours filtering through that he’d been spotted at Pex or Helsby
(where he was still able to solo “Beatnik” despite having not climbed for
ages). No doubt he was keeping himself fit and maintaining his low carb, low
fat, sugar free diet.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">More recently, social media
enabled Phil to get back in touch with lots of his old climbing friends and
ultimately he got back into climbing. With his friends Daz Devey and Dave Greenald
he appeared to be making up for lost time and was as keen as ever. Daz recalls:
“Phil has been a fantastic climbing partner and become my closest friend over
the past few years. Never any drama with him, just turns up and climbs
everything with ease. And the odd time he doesn’t climb it first go, he is back
until he gets it done.” Dave Greenald summed up Phil’s inspiring ascent of “My
Piano” at Nesscliffe in 2017: “E8 at 58”. Once again Phil proved that he was
still up there with the best. Total respect.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IUZQtDw7_CU/YDDn-jFLCzI/AAAAAAAACfo/Kegg9UHv1ZAs4xigqqmNjBtj3qsb1ChqgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/017.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1367" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IUZQtDw7_CU/YDDn-jFLCzI/AAAAAAAACfo/Kegg9UHv1ZAs4xigqqmNjBtj3qsb1ChqgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/017.jpeg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FursTBWdctk/YDDn9CXtYAI/AAAAAAAACfk/_TAxeBpPE2YyPCgFvkTvXR68ZYaEQXXCQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1000/015.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="708" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FursTBWdctk/YDDn9CXtYAI/AAAAAAAACfk/_TAxeBpPE2YyPCgFvkTvXR68ZYaEQXXCQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/015.jpeg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BpkuNaZSrwY/YDDn6hQNWuI/AAAAAAAACfc/yLMF_3NqQlkTSEqKmktvcR2ihwNdCatIACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/011.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1367" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BpkuNaZSrwY/YDDn6hQNWuI/AAAAAAAACfc/yLMF_3NqQlkTSEqKmktvcR2ihwNdCatIACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/011.jpeg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">The last time Elaine and I saw
Phil was when he came, with Kate, and spent a week with us here in the Gorges
du Loup, in 2019. In many ways it was just like old times, he hadn’t changed
(though he’d finally caught me up and lost his hair). The wonderful thing about
the climbing community is it’s like we’re all part of an extended family,
despite not seeing each other for years it’s always fantastic to catch up with
the new and relive the past. That’s exactly how it was seeing Phil again. For
one week we were almost transported back to our teenage years, sharing banter,
laughing and having fun, we even managed to climb every day.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Phil was still climbing hard and
tearing up the tarmac on his latest Ducati until just a few months ago.
Unfortunately, he’d had to stop kayaking and skiing a couple of years ago as he
couldn’t cope with cold temperatures anymore because of his treatment. True to
form, he didn’t moan about it, he just carried on doing what he could.
Eventually, his illness finally caught up with him and he has been taken from
us. Sadly, it is time to say farewell to a true legend, who set the benchmark
for us all to follow. Phil will undoubtedly be very sadly missed by so many.
The world is going to seem a sadder place without his infectious laugh and
radiant smile. Listening to Wayne Shorter won’t ever seem the same to me.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">My sincere condolences go to
Kate, who was always there for Phil, right up to the end.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tBYL_a-Ljz4/YDDoj4V6-4I/AAAAAAAACgE/jr6HqHOyskEezYRiTcOfG1MsYpYUpeifACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/008.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1793" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tBYL_a-Ljz4/YDDoj4V6-4I/AAAAAAAACgE/jr6HqHOyskEezYRiTcOfG1MsYpYUpeifACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/008.jpeg" /></span></a></div><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><br /><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<p><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Now my friend, it’s time to set off on that last lonely lead,
there’s no gear and I can’t give you the beta this time…..<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Mike Owen<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white; font-size: 13.5pt;">Many thanks to the friends who
have helped me compile this celebration of Phil’s life.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RcU6b8_8iig/YDDoxb1Mi8I/AAAAAAAACgM/Spx5mbkCFZ0ReCIyCMcHXm8C-Mx1MbEvgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Phil%2BDavidson%2B2019%2BJurassic%2BPark%2BGorges%2Bdu%2BLoup%2Bphoto%2Bby%2BMike%2BOwen.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #990000; color: white;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RcU6b8_8iig/YDDoxb1Mi8I/AAAAAAAACgM/Spx5mbkCFZ0ReCIyCMcHXm8C-Mx1MbEvgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Phil%2BDavidson%2B2019%2BJurassic%2BPark%2BGorges%2Bdu%2BLoup%2Bphoto%2Bby%2BMike%2BOwen.jpg" /></span></a></div><br /><o:p></o:p><p></p>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-53522682657279712172021-01-25T09:29:00.003-08:002021-02-06T01:37:32.670-08:00Escape to Spain for Christmas and New Year<p> As the second lockdown in France was coming to an end we prepared to escape to Spain. So we set off on our first day of freedom on 15th December. We decided to return to Masriudoms (a few km south of Tarragona). We climbed there ten years ago and had a good time but it was a wet and cold Christmas holiday and it was pretty busy, so I'd not got round to doing "ATPC", the crag classic. In fact every time we'd been in the vicinity since then it had always been very windy and we'd just kept on driving to somewhere else. This time though the forecast was perfect at last.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uSTvGjDZsJo/YA7v64iYHnI/AAAAAAAACbY/iMGXGOEijAM9tgIXzp6u3x8Tg4cHJ1SBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201219_120215.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uSTvGjDZsJo/YA7v64iYHnI/AAAAAAAACbY/iMGXGOEijAM9tgIXzp6u3x8Tg4cHJ1SBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201219_120215.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruff had some friends to play with.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ETpXVCvkG8Q/YA7v0Kf-IjI/AAAAAAAACbQ/0NycSKiJEZE16b6bPp65BXrw9kqThVRhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210121-WA0006.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ETpXVCvkG8Q/YA7v0Kf-IjI/AAAAAAAACbQ/0NycSKiJEZE16b6bPp65BXrw9kqThVRhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210121-WA0006.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Cova den Marian at Masriudoms.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YytXJYzHQ6A/YA7vr06DeNI/AAAAAAAACbM/TceU-WVTIOYxb4SbO2UA5ivdwqcPUS3ZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210121-WA0010.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YytXJYzHQ6A/YA7vr06DeNI/AAAAAAAACbM/TceU-WVTIOYxb4SbO2UA5ivdwqcPUS3ZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210121-WA0010.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the campsite.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VFM0ZVN2X-Y/YA7vnZ98zGI/AAAAAAAACbI/cdhfflxLTlEuOgjD6J_0CFINh3zmUgLYQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/Tarragona%2BClimbs%2Bcover.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="281" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VFM0ZVN2X-Y/YA7vnZ98zGI/AAAAAAAACbI/cdhfflxLTlEuOgjD6J_0CFINh3zmUgLYQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Tarragona%2BClimbs%2Bcover.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Because of Covid-19 we didn't want to wild camp, so we stayed at Camping Cala d'Oques at Hospitalet de l'Enfant right next to the sea, which is very peaceful and has great showers (and does good deals based on the longer you stay).</p><p>I did get to do "ATPC", thanks to great beta from Renaud Moulin (author of the Levante topos). To the first chain is a fantastic 7c (known as "ATP") with great moves on good holds and lots of tufas but with very polished footholds, so you have to pull pretty hard. I just about managed that part second go, it was a bit touch and go, with lots of puffing and panting due to a complete lack of any stamina. After that I dogged up the 8a part to the next chain, finding the moves hard and doubting if it would be possible. I decided not to try again that day, instead choosing to finish off with a really good 7b+ called "Gollum". Again my lack of stamina ensured it was a hard won fight after 6 weeks of lockdown.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-21G1GshTYJc/YA7zGDuN0AI/AAAAAAAACc0/9jNvTIYsSe4uCB6XFs8EV8KCZDsQMunRQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201219_120531.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-21G1GshTYJc/YA7zGDuN0AI/AAAAAAAACc0/9jNvTIYsSe4uCB6XFs8EV8KCZDsQMunRQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201219_120531.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"ATP", the start of the 7c part.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>A couple of days later, fourth tie-in overall, I've recovered at the 7c chain and I'm feeling good as I start the bouldery crux sequence a couple of bolts higher. Renaud's knee bar beta comes in handy here to clip the crucial bolt, then it's a series of three slippery crimps, a weird pinch, another poor crimp, a vertical pocket and then a big move to the jug. All's going well, then suddenly I just know I'm going to blow the very last move (reaching for the vertical left hand pocket). However, at that same moment, I remember Renaud's beta (using the pocket as a pinch with the right hand instead) and manage to freestyle to the jug. I've got the remaining eight metres well dialled and I'm really very happy when I finally clip the chain, forty metres above Elaine, and a dream has been fulfilled. After that I was happy to drop the grade and on-sighted "Superforn" (7b+).</p><p>The next day was one of the best: an on-sight of "Puta crisis reglatera" (7b+), and (thanks to great beta from Gis) a flash of "Sin pila me de la Risa" (7c). Both are really superb routes on the less steep and more fingery left hand side of the crag.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AY9gwGbl4uM/YA7wXOLERtI/AAAAAAAACbw/_OW_ikUaC-4UAv0JtkdIhorKjqRBYg0ggCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201220_140908.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AY9gwGbl4uM/YA7wXOLERtI/AAAAAAAACbw/_OW_ikUaC-4UAv0JtkdIhorKjqRBYg0ggCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201220_140908.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QY2-kb1GiZc/YA7wW_q2I5I/AAAAAAAACbs/N4A8T_lRW0k5VgxV6N5_N0T0yTC5kIjyACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201220_140921.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QY2-kb1GiZc/YA7wW_q2I5I/AAAAAAAACbs/N4A8T_lRW0k5VgxV6N5_N0T0yTC5kIjyACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201220_140921.jpg" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XtjY_75cA38/YA7wUCmWtiI/AAAAAAAACbo/CemtImuo1GE6GDArTYUPuI8Pj_gQ4vGbACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201220_141054.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XtjY_75cA38/YA7wUCmWtiI/AAAAAAAACbo/CemtImuo1GE6GDArTYUPuI8Pj_gQ4vGbACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201220_141054.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">"Sin pila me de la Risa" (7c) at Masriudoms.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>Our friends Paul and Nurie from Cornudella recommended that we go to Capçanes, which was a 40 minute drive. 4 km from the crag we were strongly discouraged by some local inhabitants who were not happy to see us in a French camper van. Not wanting to cause any trouble we turned around and went back to Masriudoms for a 2nd go/1st red-point of the brilliant "Lo Foratoradot" (7c+). Big respect to my friend Eddie Martinez who on-sighted this about ten years ago.</p><p>We were starting to feel ready for a change, so went to take a look at a newish sector at Llaberia, thanks to a recommendation from Albert Segura. We did a hard 7a+, a desperate 7b and a steady 7b+, just to the left of the photo of Albert below. Such a beautiful setting to go climbing, absolutely incredible. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NxHNdp_t6qU/YA7uu3Fu6jI/AAAAAAAACak/3MGXvtClsakXzRWWTykTb1ztwTtDNLNlwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20201222-WA0000.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NxHNdp_t6qU/YA7uu3Fu6jI/AAAAAAAACak/3MGXvtClsakXzRWWTykTb1ztwTtDNLNlwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20201222-WA0000.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Albert Segura climbing "Chip ganador" (8a) at Llaberia.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>The wind and colder temperatures finally arrived on Christmas day, so we headed south to meet up with Dave and Rhian Cross and to climb at some of the new sectors at Cabeço d'Or, near Alicante. These crags can be found in the beautiful "Costa Blanca Climbs" by Roberto Lopez, one of the best climbing topos I've ever used. As soon as I saw the photo of "De Agus.es" at Esquenall de l'Home (see below) I was psyched to go and do it. Sure enough it turned out to be an amazing 7b+, though the easier routes all proved to be very hard for their grades (especially Vicentina, which I thought was harder than the 7b+). Unfortunately the crag wasn't great for us as it was fingery and run out and I didn't fancy anything hard, furthermore it only came into the sun after 13h, even then it was cold and windy, but it was in a stunning location. Another crag we went to was the Tocayo sector at Cabeçonet, which had some nice well bolted (though fingery) grade 6's and low 7's. I especially enjoyed "Viaje a la locura" (7b+). However it had the same orientation and only got sun after 13h and again it was cold and windy.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bl3XRwavmn4/YA7vNCFi6LI/AAAAAAAACa4/Ehqmn4NPQBUsaObt0Fl7SNExLlLgRUH1ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201227_175743.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bl3XRwavmn4/YA7vNCFi6LI/AAAAAAAACa4/Ehqmn4NPQBUsaObt0Fl7SNExLlLgRUH1ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201227_175743.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset from Esquenall de l'Home.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N-JSy4WrS48/YA7vKqw3mWI/AAAAAAAACaw/5DWepV8bWcsJZyTEoTcxtUB97jHBXPsiACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210121-WA0015.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N-JSy4WrS48/YA7vKqw3mWI/AAAAAAAACaw/5DWepV8bWcsJZyTEoTcxtUB97jHBXPsiACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210121-WA0015.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">De Agus.es 7b+ (and below).</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lg49A9u_LsU/YA7vK9p8IMI/AAAAAAAACa0/KsMn-hnaPt0f2ASYdGMh-Gzf-ZabZxDhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Scan_20210123%2B%25283%2529.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1453" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lg49A9u_LsU/YA7vK9p8IMI/AAAAAAAACa0/KsMn-hnaPt0f2ASYdGMh-Gzf-ZabZxDhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Scan_20210123%2B%25283%2529.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1px9nplSCnQ/YA7vFJvjPNI/AAAAAAAACas/KW8_NqVxdqgktRCqErT3oerPUL-3rPlegCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/libro-costa-blanca-climbs.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1px9nplSCnQ/YA7vFJvjPNI/AAAAAAAACas/KW8_NqVxdqgktRCqErT3oerPUL-3rPlegCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/libro-costa-blanca-climbs.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buy this, it's amazing.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>On my wish list for many years was Boveda de Orihuela. Eddie, Keefe Murphy and Steve Crowe had all done some great things there over the years, so I was chomping at the bit to go there. Sadly it turned out to be a massive disappointment, basically we were about twenty years too late and the routes were polished beyond belief. I slipped off onto the 1st bolt on a 6c+ ("Sugar baby") had to red-point the crag warm up ("Creando ambiente", 7a+) after falling right at the top. I thought that things might improve on something harder, so I tried "THC" (7c) but it was even worse! I got totally shut down. Despite managing to work out the moves I just got so pumped trying to hang on due to the polished holds and failed to red-point it. We bagged it and didn't go back, it wasn't a very nice location anyway.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p1ZLqMe-cY8/YA71iBhrqNI/AAAAAAAACeM/Rps5mIc1oHE7F0u54Td65_MmCCrIhyKNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210102_124233.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p1ZLqMe-cY8/YA71iBhrqNI/AAAAAAAACeM/Rps5mIc1oHE7F0u54Td65_MmCCrIhyKNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210102_124233.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OLMx_8krSqs/YA71d9xxWmI/AAAAAAAACeI/oIHSZcht-hgKXmg4dPBtMJ9EBksdGVIowCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210102-WA0003.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OLMx_8krSqs/YA71d9xxWmI/AAAAAAAACeI/oIHSZcht-hgKXmg4dPBtMJ9EBksdGVIowCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210102-WA0003.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Excellent food at Cafe Playa Restaurant in Calpe with Steve and Marje.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TSee8u1qPTA/YA71caDoBHI/AAAAAAAACeE/BvQOBDBcvUot_SA0lCTmflQarILp8nu3QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210102-WA0000.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TSee8u1qPTA/YA71caDoBHI/AAAAAAAACeE/BvQOBDBcvUot_SA0lCTmflQarILp8nu3QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210102-WA0000.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great to meet up with Steve Foxley who I climbed a lot with back in the 80's.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>We returned to Masriudoms for the last three days before Catalunya went back into lockdown. By then we'd rented an apartment to get out of the wind. It was nice to meet up with Gis and all the other local climbers again, as well as some of Team BTR and Roby and Désirée from Switzerland too. I didn't seem to have the best body size to do "Los Rancios de la Aldea", for sure it must be easier if you're taller than 167cm. It was nice to succeed on something though."Ricacera" (by starting up the 7c+ and going all the way to the top of the crag) proved to be a perfect 8a that was right up my street.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JkiPBgjHkXc/YA7w8N-IMYI/AAAAAAAACcU/ULZfzoT_QbsAN3j1OFuFPyzpZ3liM36dACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210106_160130.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JkiPBgjHkXc/YA7w8N-IMYI/AAAAAAAACcU/ULZfzoT_QbsAN3j1OFuFPyzpZ3liM36dACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210106_160130.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gis climbing the 7c part of "Domador de Amortiguadores" on her way to sending the full 8a version.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xebWXI2drWU/YA7w4F1k1sI/AAAAAAAACcM/IuM0rQBbMXsse-I_xEjA1isuKAn1AJsXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210106_160146.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xebWXI2drWU/YA7w4F1k1sI/AAAAAAAACcM/IuM0rQBbMXsse-I_xEjA1isuKAn1AJsXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210106_160146.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p>After that we sat out three days of rain in our apartment during the first few days of lockdown, during which there were heavy snowfalls across most of Spain. As soon as the rain stopped we headed back home to France. We didn't think it would be right for us to go climbing when everyone else was supposed to stay in their village.</p><p>It's been wonderful to be back home, as we're not big fans of winter, it's been lovely to sleep in our own bed and have a decent shower again. However it's been raining lots so the crags are pretty wet. Unfortunately our department has the most cases of Covid-19 now and it's looking like there's going to be another lockdown across the whole of France. It's time to do some training for when we can next get away. Stay safe everybody.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_E13Dpv810M/YA71ChKpvWI/AAAAAAAACdw/Hic9BVDkueUvplHvChSrVcJdx7wOp54KQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/PC270066.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_E13Dpv810M/YA71ChKpvWI/AAAAAAAACdw/Hic9BVDkueUvplHvChSrVcJdx7wOp54KQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PC270066.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some photos from Christmas 2010. Climbers: Laurence Guyon, Oli Brous, Bertrand Fortanier and me.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ol-2jFtw514/YA71AvHZ_OI/AAAAAAAACds/7_8CzJ9Kb2g_eWrbGt02gRyskloZAgkWQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/PC270065.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ol-2jFtw514/YA71AvHZ_OI/AAAAAAAACds/7_8CzJ9Kb2g_eWrbGt02gRyskloZAgkWQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PC270065.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JVSsBR-c9hA/YA70-J65kJI/AAAAAAAACdk/0JyXRNb3bJEwD7FT4pa9K_KLlqXYrHP6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/PC270051.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JVSsBR-c9hA/YA70-J65kJI/AAAAAAAACdk/0JyXRNb3bJEwD7FT4pa9K_KLlqXYrHP6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PC270051.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s0-PwioRbZ8/YA707xjW9WI/AAAAAAAACdg/NC5U1ilLGzkRmBMhsvwlKE3zbedliYtmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/PC270050.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s0-PwioRbZ8/YA707xjW9WI/AAAAAAAACdg/NC5U1ilLGzkRmBMhsvwlKE3zbedliYtmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PC270050.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rHGMZR54a18/YA705EtCXcI/AAAAAAAACdc/PCPsF_wiVWkNWUAr5W6B-R5TlaXQWuGQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/PC240031.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rHGMZR54a18/YA705EtCXcI/AAAAAAAACdc/PCPsF_wiVWkNWUAr5W6B-R5TlaXQWuGQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PC240031.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QhcpXqRBgXo/YA703urpL4I/AAAAAAAACdY/nhz8coGFi6QVwqgU99SRYLykXzAsb4n1QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/PC240030.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QhcpXqRBgXo/YA703urpL4I/AAAAAAAACdY/nhz8coGFi6QVwqgU99SRYLykXzAsb4n1QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PC240030.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U89-9f-czzs/YA700qBbefI/AAAAAAAACdU/AQXQWJhXDnwHfuhz-BupSrZypLQ9GrEwQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/PC240019.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U89-9f-czzs/YA700qBbefI/AAAAAAAACdU/AQXQWJhXDnwHfuhz-BupSrZypLQ9GrEwQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PC240019.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JKzYsp0zMS4/YA70yevk7vI/AAAAAAAACdQ/c0EcfUfKxC0hiyuuwflK1kDkHI2gUT2QQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/PC240013.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JKzYsp0zMS4/YA70yevk7vI/AAAAAAAACdQ/c0EcfUfKxC0hiyuuwflK1kDkHI2gUT2QQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PC240013.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bPRCgdwJklU/YA70wUIrfQI/AAAAAAAACdM/RlCyRaw1fO0oju9GcXB3MUU7OXNyIctMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/PC240012.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bPRCgdwJklU/YA70wUIrfQI/AAAAAAAACdM/RlCyRaw1fO0oju9GcXB3MUU7OXNyIctMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PC240012.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cCrx1_sXXWQ/YA70ttzTZCI/AAAAAAAACdI/zyGxQLtPRFQstwUgM0rm1u1NCJGACw9cQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/PC240006.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cCrx1_sXXWQ/YA70ttzTZCI/AAAAAAAACdI/zyGxQLtPRFQstwUgM0rm1u1NCJGACw9cQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/PC240006.JPG" /></a></div><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1WBANLYtaF8/YA7yrNc-U6I/AAAAAAAACcs/2qRUFinQrHs2qr5DLPQi2wdDFDlLDffeQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20210121-WA0013.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1WBANLYtaF8/YA7yrNc-U6I/AAAAAAAACcs/2qRUFinQrHs2qr5DLPQi2wdDFDlLDffeQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-20210121-WA0013.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stay safe everyone.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-52953785726347667582020-11-12T02:51:00.008-08:002020-11-12T03:38:48.605-08:00Climbing at La Moreria (Valencia region of Spain)After Elaine's fingers had recovered from their arthritis injections, we headed off to Spain. We optimistically thought it would be for 4 or 5 weeks, that's what we were hoping anyway. <div><br /></div><div>I'd always wanted to climb at La Moreria (see "Levante North" topo) in the Valencia region of Spain, so we headed there. Our first impressions were a little disappointing to be honest. The crag didn't look as good as the topo suggested, it looked rather dirty and kind of blocky at the base, especially after a 40 minute walk-in! However it was obvious that the rock quality improved after the first 5 metres or so and there were several tufas higher up. My main objective was the classic 8a called <b>"El poder del carajillo"</b> which looked fantastic. Unfortunately the easier routes on the right were in the shade all day, which meant it would have been far too cold for Elaine to try those, but there was a really good 7a+ just right of the 8a, called <b>"La banda de Calanda"</b> which she was happy to play on. Initially it was a bit too cold and windy for us but, after a couple of days, the temperature warmed up and conditions were perfect. We were the only climbers for the first few days, after that we were joined by two very good climbers, Paul and Nuria from Cornudella. </div><div><br /></div><div> Sadly it proved to be a very short trip of only a week, as a few days after we'd arrived, Le President Mr Macron, announced to the nation that France was going into lockdown again. We thought very carefully about whether to stay in Spain or to return home. It seemed obvious to us that Spain would soon do the same, and there was a lot of heavy rain due to arrive where we were climbing. If we didn't head back we were worried that we'd be trapped in Spain, with all the worries of needing to be tested to eventually re-enter France or to self-isolate in a Spanish hotel, if either of us was proved to be positive, for two weeks at our expense. The safest and most sensible thing to do was to return home. </div><div><br /></div><div> Despite having to return after only five days climbing, I was very happy to have managed to red-point <b>"El poder del carajillo"</b> (8a), on-sight <b>"Tiempo de valientes"</b> (7c) and I was very close to doing <b>"Decotation inminente"</b> (8a). Elaine's fingers got stronger with each passing day (until her skin eventually became too sore), none the less she was very happy to piece together and finally succeeded on <b>"La banda de Calanda"</b> (7a+). Stuck here at home under <i>reconfinement</i> I'm dreaming of returning to La Moreria again next autumn.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rVlVh6gGeG4/X60StBxVKSI/AAAAAAAACXs/_BxcyKx7GDElsi4zCIlGRbZr8tHQbBgWwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/6.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rVlVh6gGeG4/X60StBxVKSI/AAAAAAAACXs/_BxcyKx7GDElsi4zCIlGRbZr8tHQbBgWwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A giant Ruff about to swallow a mini Elaine.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C-TXlGKSsqU/X60SwPMxmaI/AAAAAAAACXw/ZjAw5vPUn7s0SCIl5qY-uvOp4Jau_NqBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/1.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C-TXlGKSsqU/X60SwPMxmaI/AAAAAAAACXw/ZjAw5vPUn7s0SCIl5qY-uvOp4Jau_NqBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/1.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IheLc4vsPLM/X60SwqFYm_I/AAAAAAAACX0/5tnAL7Twb90tWhJbX_M4O04U3IgGuEovgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1920/2.jpeg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="998" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IheLc4vsPLM/X60SwqFYm_I/AAAAAAAACX0/5tnAL7Twb90tWhJbX_M4O04U3IgGuEovgCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/2.jpeg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">40 minutes to walk to the crag.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O68FirkI6LQ/X60S2OY39HI/AAAAAAAACX4/aLmBcP8ZoYYYTZ9WuoHwMtPeP4UpirqogCLcBGAsYHQ/s1599/4.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="831" data-original-width="1599" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O68FirkI6LQ/X60S2OY39HI/AAAAAAAACX4/aLmBcP8ZoYYYTZ9WuoHwMtPeP4UpirqogCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/4.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L1bQpU9diuY/X60S84_d7aI/AAAAAAAACYA/3lF-RPSJpUYVJN2j23UxbLTk61bg4vB6QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/7.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1292" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L1bQpU9diuY/X60S84_d7aI/AAAAAAAACYA/3lF-RPSJpUYVJN2j23UxbLTk61bg4vB6QCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/7.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4 photos of Elaine climbing "La banda de Calanda" (7a+).</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DxahI78idFM/X60S9XEPCZI/AAAAAAAACYE/gkhvIMnTSRsDfxghpzGioeC6Las9vjHIgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/8.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1341" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DxahI78idFM/X60S9XEPCZI/AAAAAAAACYE/gkhvIMnTSRsDfxghpzGioeC6Las9vjHIgCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/8.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-En45sjz444Q/X60S-Ip3yRI/AAAAAAAACYI/WBfZhZvfHwMnAYp4eWNnisrzf4_yP2E2ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/9.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-En45sjz444Q/X60S-Ip3yRI/AAAAAAAACYI/WBfZhZvfHwMnAYp4eWNnisrzf4_yP2E2ACLcBGAsYHQ/s600/9.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-83WrSrlRVr8/X60TAPKKkUI/AAAAAAAACYQ/ttnM9o-yaBkbIV5geEV-Dz4egHSocfywACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/10.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1284" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-83WrSrlRVr8/X60TAPKKkUI/AAAAAAAACYQ/ttnM9o-yaBkbIV5geEV-Dz4egHSocfywACLcBGAsYHQ/s600/10.jpg" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b_Ud4vXgGKo/X60TC2sBWiI/AAAAAAAACYU/TyS8Pamv_7sLLoqCYEozjmiO940HfgVPwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/11.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b_Ud4vXgGKo/X60TC2sBWiI/AAAAAAAACYU/TyS8Pamv_7sLLoqCYEozjmiO940HfgVPwCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/11.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2 photos of Nuria on-sighting "El poder del carajillo" (8a).</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IoZlbjCtF6o/X60TEtbxFpI/AAAAAAAACYY/4j9UPBKLDVgWuFFtnJkyeF5ko8HJVh0twCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/12.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IoZlbjCtF6o/X60TEtbxFpI/AAAAAAAACYY/4j9UPBKLDVgWuFFtnJkyeF5ko8HJVh0twCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/12.jpg" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XZgZwE0w07M/X60TJfKU7jI/AAAAAAAACYg/AR7yv4fPvT0HejrCu9dO2apMde9ie1IQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/13.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XZgZwE0w07M/X60TJfKU7jI/AAAAAAAACYg/AR7yv4fPvT0HejrCu9dO2apMde9ie1IQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/13.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2 photos of Paul flashing "El poder del carajillo" (8a).</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p_IgMRUeX5o/X60TLbqEMAI/AAAAAAAACYk/zehbnVzhrLAqDvfn2sebGgl3dxwPYP--ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/14.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p_IgMRUeX5o/X60TLbqEMAI/AAAAAAAACYk/zehbnVzhrLAqDvfn2sebGgl3dxwPYP--ACLcBGAsYHQ/s600/14.jpg" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6KrxP7p-tW0/X60TL1Q0R-I/AAAAAAAACYo/5eSbGxPsEeQbL58UF_AvplUSrDiSITCdQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/15.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6KrxP7p-tW0/X60TL1Q0R-I/AAAAAAAACYo/5eSbGxPsEeQbL58UF_AvplUSrDiSITCdQCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/15.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a big crag. 3 photos of the 7c+ part of "Decotation inminente".</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qsCdWCYHqw8/X60TOP7Zb1I/AAAAAAAACYw/Ev9m4pG8xa0qrPgN3Y3rF3AGkQEvODlPACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/16.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qsCdWCYHqw8/X60TOP7Zb1I/AAAAAAAACYw/Ev9m4pG8xa0qrPgN3Y3rF3AGkQEvODlPACLcBGAsYHQ/s600/16.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Hnh_LPT3q4/X60TP8o-vGI/AAAAAAAACY0/Oa6p3fYsm4IVrxRe9dNuAinswcHk1Ge1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/17.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Hnh_LPT3q4/X60TP8o-vGI/AAAAAAAACY0/Oa6p3fYsm4IVrxRe9dNuAinswcHk1Ge1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/17.jpg" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NvukNLhdenc/X60S7YV0uOI/AAAAAAAACX8/PDyrCfnkqrEJkeo16yjUdLIPgV6u0ScOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/5.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NvukNLhdenc/X60S7YV0uOI/AAAAAAAACX8/PDyrCfnkqrEJkeo16yjUdLIPgV6u0ScOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/5.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy dog.</td></tr></tbody></table></div>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-88600675105707020282020-11-03T04:05:00.004-08:002020-11-12T03:56:15.456-08:00Fun in the Gorges du Loup<p>Elaine needed to have her annual finger injections for her arthritis in September and October. So we stayed at home and climbed locally in the beautiful Gorges du Loup. Here's some photos of some of the action.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mBhRzXXel5c/X6FDU_JXjFI/AAAAAAAACVY/zVpCck0-d7MbIJgUZZiDhTfP3HwawYmkQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mBhRzXXel5c/X6FDU_JXjFI/AAAAAAAACVY/zVpCck0-d7MbIJgUZZiDhTfP3HwawYmkQCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/1.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ladder at the start of the access for 1ere and 2eme Etage at Deverse.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nrdL5ilftlg/X6FDXmeIvZI/AAAAAAAACVc/sYgHv1XzahoGP8G0uoqZd-DJLgletD2VACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nrdL5ilftlg/X6FDXmeIvZI/AAAAAAAACVc/sYgHv1XzahoGP8G0uoqZd-DJLgletD2VACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South African ex-pat Matthew Murison working the stunning Kiss Pupuce (8a) at Deverse 2eme Etage.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HYTQMQHZ8DE/X6FDZr7L03I/AAAAAAAACVg/dRBg9BFShk4WF1gwndLzW3z8YbpZn8PZACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HYTQMQHZ8DE/X6FDZr7L03I/AAAAAAAACVg/dRBg9BFShk4WF1gwndLzW3z8YbpZn8PZACLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/3.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So happy after doing Kiss Pupuce (8a) 1st go 2nd day.</td></tr></tbody></table><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y-hbSnVFJqk/X6FDbSVVPRI/AAAAAAAACVk/GUn_jyVbzVgdNv_qBtYMB9a2qlFsU5CqACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y-hbSnVFJqk/X6FDbSVVPRI/AAAAAAAACVk/GUn_jyVbzVgdNv_qBtYMB9a2qlFsU5CqACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/4.jpg" width="640" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DNCPz0-N1f0/X6FDeFyV9gI/AAAAAAAACVs/-th1xhTEKXY9leoYMLRpv6dGQT3kiQ4jwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DNCPz0-N1f0/X6FDeFyV9gI/AAAAAAAACVs/-th1xhTEKXY9leoYMLRpv6dGQT3kiQ4jwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/5.jpg" width="640" /></a><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-atSDs46-isU/X6FDd4HmcNI/AAAAAAAACVo/SOI1FKbGdpcNCcu0haz9U82oDRg_mHDhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-atSDs46-isU/X6FDd4HmcNI/AAAAAAAACVo/SOI1FKbGdpcNCcu0haz9U82oDRg_mHDhQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not much room underneath Kiss Pupuce sends you a little bit mad.</td></tr></tbody></table><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-79ioK9bQ1E8/X6FDhxi9vNI/AAAAAAAACVw/GxJRRKBmssM5ZcVTXKeZAZZcQxAs_M_lACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-79ioK9bQ1E8/X6FDhxi9vNI/AAAAAAAACVw/GxJRRKBmssM5ZcVTXKeZAZZcQxAs_M_lACLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/7.jpg" width="480" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WaSQtlWFlM4/X6FDkvMVYMI/AAAAAAAACV0/V-t7sacrzbUtPSFMLw0oCIJrwizuJiJ7ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WaSQtlWFlM4/X6FDkvMVYMI/AAAAAAAACV0/V-t7sacrzbUtPSFMLw0oCIJrwizuJiJ7ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/8.jpg" width="640" /></a><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4UBO0xbIJBQ/X6FDm4hv7zI/AAAAAAAACV8/_9M1_uvSGcMFTXNJMqw100Gw5Y0ohlOCQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/9.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4UBO0xbIJBQ/X6FDm4hv7zI/AAAAAAAACV8/_9M1_uvSGcMFTXNJMqw100Gw5Y0ohlOCQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/9.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three photos showing the access to Deverse Premier Etage.</td></tr></tbody></table><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rjrEp1WkuWk/X6FDmQ5rVtI/AAAAAAAACV4/UKlCzvJz8asnjI2e9iGnitxj72yiL3PsACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1648" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rjrEp1WkuWk/X6FDmQ5rVtI/AAAAAAAACV4/UKlCzvJz8asnjI2e9iGnitxj72yiL3PsACLcBGAsYHQ/w516-h640/10.jpg" width="516" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kFOG24vx74c/X6FDoJ4jRHI/AAAAAAAACWE/wJEbmZv_ku0L5mRrIZTUe1hGGmyZHM-OQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1901" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kFOG24vx74c/X6FDoJ4jRHI/AAAAAAAACWE/wJEbmZv_ku0L5mRrIZTUe1hGGmyZHM-OQCLcBGAsYHQ/w594-h640/11.jpg" width="594" /></a><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8SvzrXS8v5o/X6FDo-vmJnI/AAAAAAAACWI/tjKkUDdYl0URChwi4IFTXY-aafJhdgLgwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1452/12.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1452" data-original-width="1364" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8SvzrXS8v5o/X6FDo-vmJnI/AAAAAAAACWI/tjKkUDdYl0URChwi4IFTXY-aafJhdgLgwCLcBGAsYHQ/w602-h640/12.jpg" width="602" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three photos of Jean-Mi climbing Banditos, 7c.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u0NfbZAo7_0/X6FDp_GaMxI/AAAAAAAACWM/aDQRv735ogU9bP-Zc8pxeEhiup5mTicMACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/13.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u0NfbZAo7_0/X6FDp_GaMxI/AAAAAAAACWM/aDQRv735ogU9bP-Zc8pxeEhiup5mTicMACLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/13.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mich climbing Banditos, 7c.</td></tr></tbody></table><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z1PEndCy-wU/X6FDro7H3AI/AAAAAAAACWQ/Q_RVV-MHPw4w1fYpE5rcyYu2cy1v1FR0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z1PEndCy-wU/X6FDro7H3AI/AAAAAAAACWQ/Q_RVV-MHPw4w1fYpE5rcyYu2cy1v1FR0gCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/14.jpg" width="480" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YCPwjjq3QsM/X6FDz1RXwWI/AAAAAAAACWU/FbsZL85x8YA6zZCKWYogFOxxxeYp24CAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YCPwjjq3QsM/X6FDz1RXwWI/AAAAAAAACWU/FbsZL85x8YA6zZCKWYogFOxxxeYp24CAQCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/18.jpg" width="480" /></a><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4SxbUwfQ_ks/X6FD19jQ1ZI/AAAAAAAACWc/7_RJCBOpC_MfFe8u8Iu6s_D8SbLM0xafQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/19.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4SxbUwfQ_ks/X6FD19jQ1ZI/AAAAAAAACWc/7_RJCBOpC_MfFe8u8Iu6s_D8SbLM0xafQCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/19.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three photos of La voie de Yannick, 8a.</td></tr></tbody></table><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EFU4j-AKVNI/X6FD4H_aJ3I/AAAAAAAACWo/qmdXG2NoWI8WpwBaSBh26cskK-rhUWIMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/15.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EFU4j-AKVNI/X6FD4H_aJ3I/AAAAAAAACWo/qmdXG2NoWI8WpwBaSBh26cskK-rhUWIMgCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/15.jpg" width="480" /></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NPo0TLjHB5o/X6FD6OY6ftI/AAAAAAAACWs/NTZQ4DkQOrInK7WCksVTrEUucEdJgA0agCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/16.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NPo0TLjHB5o/X6FD6OY6ftI/AAAAAAAACWs/NTZQ4DkQOrInK7WCksVTrEUucEdJgA0agCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/16.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two photos of Fabien climbing an unnamed 7b+.</td></tr></tbody></table><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xZmbUH6dOh4/X6FD9Qh9LpI/AAAAAAAACW0/jwUCkZFFKVM5E58gfWvcHzE1RQDpbxO8QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xZmbUH6dOh4/X6FD9Qh9LpI/AAAAAAAACW0/jwUCkZFFKVM5E58gfWvcHzE1RQDpbxO8QCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/20.jpg" width="480" /></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9TwsYLLMi8s/X6FD_CUCFDI/AAAAAAAACW4/gKqY6TcJ7mohCSWxXGMBuQhacwyz9-XrwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/21.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9TwsYLLMi8s/X6FD_CUCFDI/AAAAAAAACW4/gKqY6TcJ7mohCSWxXGMBuQhacwyz9-XrwCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/21.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two photos of Big Ben climbing Tinder Surprise (8b).<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GbKMbmtmz8A/X6FEBczhPLI/AAAAAAAACW8/V1B7mKCE5NY1BYr_RNQ6bQq4BzVLlD7jgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/22.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GbKMbmtmz8A/X6FEBczhPLI/AAAAAAAACW8/V1B7mKCE5NY1BYr_RNQ6bQq4BzVLlD7jgCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/22.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maxime on Le Tromblochon (8a+).<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vEhqE2GEmY4/X6FEDce57cI/AAAAAAAACXA/VAvP959_nDcCeA0Lk-LK6x2hFMyaOyGhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/23.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vEhqE2GEmY4/X6FEDce57cI/AAAAAAAACXA/VAvP959_nDcCeA0Lk-LK6x2hFMyaOyGhwCLcBGAsYHQ/w360-h640/23.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up at my rope in Pau-werful de la muerte.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JZBfmZMNtNI/X6FEFfLR7DI/AAAAAAAACXE/ENq7tHMNMEoUCYOjpORGlJTmQjjC_8m5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/24.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JZBfmZMNtNI/X6FEFfLR7DI/AAAAAAAACXE/ENq7tHMNMEoUCYOjpORGlJTmQjjC_8m5wCLcBGAsYHQ/w360-h640/24.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy after doing Pau-werful de la muerte (8a+).<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-43346099281445697172020-08-02T03:57:00.003-07:002020-08-07T03:05:43.852-07:00Climbing at Rincon de Sin (near Bielsa, Spanish Pyrenees)<div>Since the end of confinement it's been great to get outdoors and touch rock again.<br /><br />In June, we spent a couple of weeks in the the Gorges de St May, 20km west of Nyons (Drome Provençale). It's one of our favourite areas because it's quiet and not well known, and the climbing is generally steep with good holds and colonettes. I'd wanted to return to do a great looking 7c+ called "Lezard a tete bleue", which was supposed to be very bouldery at the top. I found a very efficient sequence, which proved the key and it turned out to be fine. <br /><br />Wherever we travel, we always make an effort to be friendly with the local climbers, it's nice way to make new friends and find out the latest info in each area. Such was the case this time, we were told about the latest spot a la mode, called Le Vatican. Wow, what a crag! Lots to go back for when it's cooler (and quieter).<br /><br />Then back home for some more ace bouldering at Art Bloc in Nice.<br /><br />In July, we spent three fantastic weeks climbing in the Valley de Cinca, near Bielsa, just over the frontier in the Spanish Pyrenees. This is one of our top ten favourite destinations. The scenery is beautiful, the climbing is amazing, it's not too far away and there's a great campsite. I think this was our seventh visit to the area, and again we got a very warm welcome from the family who run "Camping Bielsa".<br /><br />We have already climbed lots at the well known crags of Foz de la Canal, Las Devotas and Super Devotas, but this time we climbed mostly at a new crag called Rincon de Sin. You have to understand that this cliff has been equipped by French climbers (mostly Guillaume Bouloumie and Dominique Brenguer), so the grades are generally stiff. Also, just like the other crags in the area, the bolting tends to be spaced, so you have to be prepared to climb well above your last bolt (or use a clipstick!). We found enough info on the Aure Verticale website (see attached) to get us to the crag (which is a steep 30 minute uphill walk). There are now over 100 climbs at Rincon de Sin, which will be included in the next edition of "Grimpe en Vallees d'Aure et du Cinca", due out next year.<br /><br />Here is another link to find out more info: <a href="http://fanatic-climbing.com/rincon-une-nouvelle-falaise-frontaliere-dans-les-pyrenees-rincon-new-border-crag-in-the-pyrenees/">http://fanatic-climbing.com/rincon-une-nouvelle-falaise-frontaliere-dans-les-pyrenees-rincon-new-border-crag-in-the-pyrenees/</a><br /><br />My favourite routes were Adidas (7c), Rosae (7c+), Paraguayo (7b), Marche Pied (7c), Good Time (8a), El Esquinazau (7b), Sorry Angel (7a+) and Planosphere (7c+).<br /><br />The names can be found at the base of each climb, Guillaume, Dom, Pascal, Carine and Alain will probably be there to tell you the grades. Bon grimpe!<br /><br />Photos show Carine on "Marche Pied" (7c), Celine on "Sorry Angel" and Carine on "Salamalecs" (7b+). All photos taken by Elaine Owen.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sE7ZH4Ny-rw/XyaaIONIg5I/AAAAAAAACUI/5Mj4jqncjC8_SHxAvSYveWxS2r9Hx2ZBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20200802-WA0005.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sE7ZH4Ny-rw/XyaaIONIg5I/AAAAAAAACUI/5Mj4jqncjC8_SHxAvSYveWxS2r9Hx2ZBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG-20200802-WA0005.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-41zynqaQi-0/XyaZ-zHhBtI/AAAAAAAACUA/1gNxziamzY4cpJpTIYDrQDrvEWcasqsqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20200802-WA0002.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-41zynqaQi-0/XyaZ-zHhBtI/AAAAAAAACUA/1gNxziamzY4cpJpTIYDrQDrvEWcasqsqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG-20200802-WA0002.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xGnxgDElz3M/XyaZ04RCBAI/AAAAAAAACT0/FpzQsYW8UPUpDE3TZXOJwXmQh2i9pNv1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20200802-WA0016.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xGnxgDElz3M/XyaZ04RCBAI/AAAAAAAACT0/FpzQsYW8UPUpDE3TZXOJwXmQh2i9pNv1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG-20200802-WA0016.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rwX62ovCi2I/XyaZyaPQ7-I/AAAAAAAACTw/ZJLQxzFeNCkUZebiTYFDwQB0usFzwyLcwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20200802-WA0013.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rwX62ovCi2I/XyaZyaPQ7-I/AAAAAAAACTw/ZJLQxzFeNCkUZebiTYFDwQB0usFzwyLcwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG-20200802-WA0013.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--nJQUsC8uhQ/XyaZs9ocCHI/AAAAAAAACTs/-S-2n3aBZ_IqdcN0ATY7RgHm9KE9Rd9XQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20200802-WA0017.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--nJQUsC8uhQ/XyaZs9ocCHI/AAAAAAAACTs/-S-2n3aBZ_IqdcN0ATY7RgHm9KE9Rd9XQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG-20200802-WA0017.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sAwgKz2XwCg/XyaZpbNfKrI/AAAAAAAACTo/KscvAjlUE301FX59nZo8od15bLB9rUazACLcBGAsYHQ/s1355/IMG-20200802-WA0019%2B%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1355" data-original-width="933" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sAwgKz2XwCg/XyaZpbNfKrI/AAAAAAAACTo/KscvAjlUE301FX59nZo8od15bLB9rUazACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG-20200802-WA0019%2B%25282%2529.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l4RcMbOebRM/XyaZneSfkbI/AAAAAAAACTk/RtN5z2awQr4mH8Mgvj1OCLjRNpusZPXtwCLcBGAsYHQ/s948/IMG-20200802-WA0020%2B%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="948" data-original-width="672" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l4RcMbOebRM/XyaZneSfkbI/AAAAAAAACTk/RtN5z2awQr4mH8Mgvj1OCLjRNpusZPXtwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG-20200802-WA0020%2B%25282%2529.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hDHjzj_ZkhQ/XyaZlrs-H-I/AAAAAAAACTg/ZS5_T-BzWAMz60TUK1MbHR-ub8c67FAjQCLcBGAsYHQ/s744/IMG-20200802-WA0022%2B%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="496" data-original-width="744" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hDHjzj_ZkhQ/XyaZlrs-H-I/AAAAAAAACTg/ZS5_T-BzWAMz60TUK1MbHR-ub8c67FAjQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG-20200802-WA0022%2B%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qp2miO-pr1k/Xya6QJhN_SI/AAAAAAAACUY/mT7s_nWXb60ErzVtXa21PwoiZ7OjdvDCACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-20200802-WA0012.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qp2miO-pr1k/Xya6QJhN_SI/AAAAAAAACUY/mT7s_nWXb60ErzVtXa21PwoiZ7OjdvDCACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG-20200802-WA0012.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Welcome to Rincon" or possibly "Futur Incertain" (very hard). Photo by Elaine.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-24075280963382320972020-06-03T01:55:00.001-07:002020-06-03T01:55:38.202-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 34.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 34.<br /><br />I'm hesitant about writing this one, not because I'm unsure of whether I had a good time climbing with this top bloke, but because I know he's a very discreet and private person. So I'll keep it short. Thanks for the fun times at Kilnsey, Chapel Head Scar and Cheedale during the autumn of 1989, they were definitely care free and happy days. Keep on cranking Dave.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCTqhDe7WkQ/XtdkW19RtnI/AAAAAAAACSQ/x5Xa11v1iYU4pPZuueQT98g_1vjpZ-bHQCK4BGAsYHg/Tim%2BLowe%2Band%2BDave%2BHinton%2B%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="905" data-original-width="672" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCTqhDe7WkQ/XtdkW19RtnI/AAAAAAAACSQ/x5Xa11v1iYU4pPZuueQT98g_1vjpZ-bHQCK4BGAsYHg/s320/Tim%2BLowe%2Band%2BDave%2BHinton%2B%25282%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim Lowe with Dave Hinton.</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ucQTtOJ4sw/XtdkKSZNYMI/AAAAAAAACSE/NZnKc7WkvVsO2cuXQdPVD2f0b8IPg11ZgCK4BGAsYHg/Dave%2BHinton%252C%2BWestern%2BFront.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Dave Hinton climbing "Western Front" at Almscliffe." border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ucQTtOJ4sw/XtdkKSZNYMI/AAAAAAAACSE/NZnKc7WkvVsO2cuXQdPVD2f0b8IPg11ZgCK4BGAsYHg/w240-h320/Dave%2BHinton%252C%2BWestern%2BFront.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave Hinton climbing Western Front at almscliffe.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-70298351520077984772020-06-02T03:26:00.001-07:002020-06-02T03:29:42.018-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 33.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 33.<br /><br />Mike (Twid) Turner became a regular fixturer on the North Wales scene from the mid '80's onwards (usually climbing with his then girlfriend Kath Goodey). He had all the neccessary attributes to become a really good climber (especially on trad routes, though he was no slouch on sport routes either). He had strong fingers (developed at The Breck), plenty of determination and was very necky. An added bonus was his wicked sense of humour.<br /><br />Ironically Twid was rejected, by Gavin Peat, for the Outdoor Ed course at I. M. Marsh. It proved to be a good thing, actually, as Twid put his energy into becoming a British Mountain Guide. Nowadays he is one of the most accomplshed all-round climbers in the world, living in Switzerland with his wife Louise (also a very accomplished all-round climber) and daughter Erin. He's still as mad keen for any form of climbing: trad, sport, ice, big wall, Alpine, Himalayan. In fact you name it, he's done it.<br /><br />Back in the day, we did some amazing trad climbing together, for example "Hunger", "Conan the Librarian" and "Hunter Killer". He took an ace photo of me wearing his shirt on "Wreath of Deadly Nightshade" (belayed by Owain Jones). We also used to work out on "The Boy" (as we used to call it) at LPT and "Indecent Exposure" at Ravens Tor.<br /><br />Cheers Twid. Eat lard, climb 'ard.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Twid on "Isis is angry" on Gogarth's Yellow Wall. Photo by Ray Wood.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Twid on "Barbarossa" on Gogarth's Upper Tier. Photo by Ray Wood.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Twid on "Snake charmer" in Huntsman's Leap, Pembroke, in 1987. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qH5kYwHm01c/XtYod04LLeI/AAAAAAAACRo/SDTAKvmHIaAz2PceFCLeARBUG9UkJ1gywCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Mike%252C%2BWreath%2Bof%2BDeadly%2BNightshade%252C%2BJune%2B%252790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1129" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qH5kYwHm01c/XtYod04LLeI/AAAAAAAACRo/SDTAKvmHIaAz2PceFCLeARBUG9UkJ1gywCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Mike%252C%2BWreath%2Bof%2BDeadly%2BNightshade%252C%2BJune%2B%252790.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wearing Twid's shirt on "Wreath of deadly nightshade" at Gogarth's North Stack Wall in 1990.</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-71231380731879596522020-05-25T01:41:00.000-07:002020-05-25T01:41:20.625-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 32.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 32.<br /><br />Another I.M.Marsh trip, this time on a biology field course on Anglesey, in 1989, allowed <a href="https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010647368781&__tn__=%2CdK-R-R&eid=ARAlcGxFIdegtJg2x8WW9ZKdEieeEMea5nvC74B6iLLI_FXxInV1UAcT_kFBc29TMFFaQPHu5O3I5vyT&fref=mentions">Duncan Potter</a> and I the chance to zap across to Gogarth to do Dinosaur. I had backed off it twice over the years, due to horrendous damp conditions. The key to this route is being patient enough to wait for the sun to arrive, later in the day, to dry it out. Our late arrival was ideal, this time connies were perfect.<br /><br />I hadn't climbed with Dunc, he seemed pretty cool with the sportsplan, and I knew he'd done some pretty hard climbing, though not much recently. I led the first pitch and Dunc seconded it easily. He then led the second pitch, slowly and cautiously. I led the third pitch and we got back to the sacks just as it was getting dark. What a blast we'd had. Better than superb!<br /><br />It turned out to be the start of a mega week of classic ticking on the Main Cliff, ("Mammoth" with <a href="https://www.facebook.com/showfaman?__tn__=%2CdK-R-R&eid=ARBHHymxPa-COk5USBbPAzdH_1gxQ1E1bRXyyoKfYO7e2dw2kHKWEJv4LymsN-mubLRObFm9aXHXsaCZ&fref=mentions">Steve Foxley</a>, "Mammoth Direct" with <a href="https://www.facebook.com/elaine.owen.94?__tn__=%2CdK-R-R&eid=ARB0Ie9jZksECS4T_4dEtd8b3Fe4B1EgcgTdyyUTyQalJfBJcv2gxHQaJRzLq4NbuICGMgvDAPYar1zg&fref=mentions">Elaine Owen</a>, "The Big Sleep" with Ian Barker and "Skinhead Moonstomp" with Mike Waters). What an amazing week that was.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sleepy looking Duncan Potter (photo by Chris Grazia Calvert, thanks).</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I.M.Marsh day at Aldery Cliff, 1988. L to R: Jackie Smith, Simon Bates, Gavin Jones, Duncan Potter, Nancy Peterson, Paul James and unknown.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinosaur first pitch (photo by Jethro Kiernan, thanks).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7wVYX3zQOqI/XsuDcXieNbI/AAAAAAAACRA/m6PJK1KFx28HdoqFFNz_HjPpZNfplrQfACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Dinosaur%2B2%2B%2528Nadir%2BKhan%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="540" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7wVYX3zQOqI/XsuDcXieNbI/AAAAAAAACRA/m6PJK1KFx28HdoqFFNz_HjPpZNfplrQfACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Dinosaur%2B2%2B%2528Nadir%2BKhan%2529.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view of the first pitch of Dinosaur (photo by Nadir Khan, thanks).</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-53272414600503374282020-05-24T02:13:00.001-07:002020-05-24T02:13:17.017-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 31.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 31.<br /><br />A couple of very special days with The Big Man.<br /><br />Towards the end of our second year at I.M.Marsh we went down to Wales to practice advanced climbing and rescue techniques, under the supervision of Gavin Peat. I was paired up with <a href="https://www.facebook.com/paulandjillmills?__tn__=%2CdK-R-R&eid=ARBwJW5jn6PEFdcdEJYC2_WH0lrlVmsYIt8SxmYBbvNOyFbWyab31LwV_Qz5wbwwKh1ZwJh9VPb28Ewc&fref=mentions">Paul Mills</a> (aka The Big Man) a really mellow, happy Scot, whose forte was sailing.<br /><br />The first day was spent at Tremadoc. Paul was assigned the task of leading Meshack, my job was to fall off the top pitch and be winched by Paul to the top. It was pretty gripping to be honest but we muddled through and survived the experience. Thereafter we were allowed to climb for fun. Paul and I went off and did The Plum and First Slip, before heading to Ynys Etws, the CC hut in the Pass, where we were going to spend the night. However, there was still enough daylight to run up to the Mot and do Superdirect. Whilst I'd done all of these climbs previously it was great fun doing them again with Paul, we had had a very good day indeed.<br /><br />Next day the plan was to go to Cloggy. Paul and I decided to do White Slab (which I'd never done but Elaine had). We did alternate leads and were quickly wondering what to do next. Gavin told us to do Jelly Roll (which I'd never done before either). I was amazed how well Paul was climbing, he was on fire and there was no stopping him.<br /><br />Back down at the sacks and all the other students were still climbing. So there was time for one more climb. With the early evening sun shining on us, there was only one choice really, it had to be Great Wall (which I had in fact already done some years before with Elaine). Ok, Paul was happy to second by then, but he climbed it very elegently, it was a real pleasure to watch The Big Man, grinning and climbing so well on such an iconic route. What a day we'd had.<br /><br />Next day we all headed to Castell Helen on Anglesey and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/nancy.peterson.503?__tn__=%2CdK-R-R&eid=ARAgbakU1UYXH0v64dNMLWzCBB2Ad3l9ohnEHu3rOCqKOEpul1s114QtBxje1a4pFKQ9Y4WOsrFEbhi0&fref=mentions">Nancy Peterson</a> and I were paired together. This was the same place where I first climbed above the sea, with my old school mate John Roberts back in 1975, so I could appreciate just how Nancy felt that day, as I don't think she'd done much climbing. It turned out to be another wonderful day, I had a load of fun encouraging her and she made fantastic progress doing alternate leads on Rap and Pel. Brilliant!<br /><br />Unfortunately Paul screwed up on the end of year exams, so he didn't return to college that autumn. Nancy passed and graduated with me (and everyone else) two years later.<br /><br />Sadly, The Big Man is no longer with us, I miss him dearly. On a happier note, Nancy is living the dream with her family in Canada (though I don't think she went into teaching).<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VVdX1s9PO8I/Xso53BO-h0I/AAAAAAAACQE/GYDOZWTyHMgaMMDrTT91VowRBJyFLc3TwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Gavin%252C%2BMillsy%252C%2BDunc%2Band%2BNancy%2Bon%2Bway%2Bto%2BCloggy%252C%2B1988.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="905" height="269" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VVdX1s9PO8I/Xso53BO-h0I/AAAAAAAACQE/GYDOZWTyHMgaMMDrTT91VowRBJyFLc3TwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Gavin%252C%2BMillsy%252C%2BDunc%2Band%2BNancy%2Bon%2Bway%2Bto%2BCloggy%252C%2B1988.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to Cloggy in 1988. Gavin Peat, Paul Mills, Duncan Potter and Nancy Peterson.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BDp_HMcVA_Q/Xso55aRQGQI/AAAAAAAACQI/biv4dtMUAtorbp65yM_H5j1j-LBulZukwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/On%2Bway%2Bto%2BCloggy%252C%2BDunc%252C%2BNancy%252C%2BGavin%2Band%2BMillsy%252C%2B1988.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="738" data-original-width="1118" height="211" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BDp_HMcVA_Q/Xso55aRQGQI/AAAAAAAACQI/biv4dtMUAtorbp65yM_H5j1j-LBulZukwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/On%2Bway%2Bto%2BCloggy%252C%2BDunc%252C%2BNancy%252C%2BGavin%2Band%2BMillsy%252C%2B1988.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan, Nancy, Gavin (with camera) and Paul en route to Cloggy, 1988.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--mOkCfK_x5E/Xso576_gOGI/AAAAAAAACQM/luDviqR6KGAw4G6uEiND2OwN4RDgzMxmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Cloggy%2Bevening%2Bsun%252C%2B1988.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="1090" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--mOkCfK_x5E/Xso576_gOGI/AAAAAAAACQM/luDviqR6KGAw4G6uEiND2OwN4RDgzMxmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Cloggy%2Bevening%2Bsun%252C%2B1988.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sVCJK_mHDoI/Xso5-8mYHgI/AAAAAAAACQQ/QfWSyrwRU84eAR9HDRZiVknqwMFqYEOegCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Millsy%2Bupside%2Bdown%252C%2B1987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1134" data-original-width="748" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sVCJK_mHDoI/Xso5-8mYHgI/AAAAAAAACQQ/QfWSyrwRU84eAR9HDRZiVknqwMFqYEOegCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Millsy%2Bupside%2Bdown%252C%2B1987.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Big Man fooling around.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Big Man in his element.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oZYGLTlnF04/Xso6Cj1y-kI/AAAAAAAACQY/c2_w95roLKcD7IHs4nSh7f6n1xAA_T0YwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Millsy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="665" height="265" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oZYGLTlnF04/Xso6Cj1y-kI/AAAAAAAACQY/c2_w95roLKcD7IHs4nSh7f6n1xAA_T0YwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Millsy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Big Man.</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-1319609024872482792020-05-23T02:48:00.002-07:002020-05-23T02:48:44.311-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 30.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 30.<br /><br />Fast cars and hard climbing in 1987.<br /><br />John Hartley and I spent a few days at Pete Gommersall and Bonny Masson's place near Skipton and climbed at Malham and Kilnsey. John drove at warp speed in his RS2000 but I think Gommy was quicker in his Renault 5 Turbo. At the time Elaine and I had a white XR2 and Phil Davidson had a black XR2. We all used to drive far too quickly, it's a miracle that none of had any serious accidents.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-azFUWuk0U1o/Xsjv1MEAfYI/AAAAAAAACPM/EbFpTCjLiKEBKMsXr_t6p8B0kHyiXubAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Gommy%252C%2BBonny%2Band%2BJohn%2BHartley%252C%2B1987.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="755" data-original-width="964" height="250" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-azFUWuk0U1o/Xsjv1MEAfYI/AAAAAAAACPM/EbFpTCjLiKEBKMsXr_t6p8B0kHyiXubAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Gommy%252C%2BBonny%2Band%2BJohn%2BHartley%252C%2B1987.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete Gommersall, Bonny Masson, Maxine and John Hartley, Kilnsey, 1987.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6zLC9ZB9dEY/Xsjv6xBZtxI/AAAAAAAACPQ/o-4q9QTQYLksLxtxj5ISlkHG_scpE6NJgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Gommy%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1174" data-original-width="776" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6zLC9ZB9dEY/Xsjv6xBZtxI/AAAAAAAACPQ/o-4q9QTQYLksLxtxj5ISlkHG_scpE6NJgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Gommy%2B2.png" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gommy, Exponential Exhaustion, Kilnsey, 1987.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N9QnClaLPQo/XsjwCxpJPNI/AAAAAAAACPU/TqYsv86mp7cr24lSkCmE_xF44M-G3ywtQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Mike%252C%2BExponential%2BExhaustion%252C%2BKilnsey.%2BJuly%2B%252787.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1078" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N9QnClaLPQo/XsjwCxpJPNI/AAAAAAAACPU/TqYsv86mp7cr24lSkCmE_xF44M-G3ywtQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Mike%252C%2BExponential%2BExhaustion%252C%2BKilnsey.%2BJuly%2B%252787.jpg" width="215" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The start of Exponential Exhaustion.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7dZ1MnvSG-I/XsjwJFKbL7I/AAAAAAAACPc/GDKyy7avzL8tvrlUzVDRt4Y7oUxoJPMWQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Pretty%2Bin%2Bpink%252C%2BExponential%2BExhaustion%252C%2B%252787.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7dZ1MnvSG-I/XsjwJFKbL7I/AAAAAAAACPc/GDKyy7avzL8tvrlUzVDRt4Y7oUxoJPMWQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Pretty%2Bin%2Bpink%252C%2BExponential%2BExhaustion%252C%2B%252787.bmp" width="204" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty in pink on Exponential Exhaustion, Kilnsey, 1987 (both photos by Gommy).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wl-nMVm8B_U/XsjwRHshcwI/AAAAAAAACPg/rYQYTB8toIUEhoKUhVXrqEpX5pGJfJ98ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/The%2BOverlap.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1174" data-original-width="790" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wl-nMVm8B_U/XsjwRHshcwI/AAAAAAAACPg/rYQYTB8toIUEhoKUhVXrqEpX5pGJfJ98ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/The%2BOverlap.png" width="215" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Overlap, Kilnsey, 1987.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--CzIgflkzDE/XsjwZzAf90I/AAAAAAAACPo/hmH9vr6S6AoN9QM0IRaV_W27E4n7y1r5ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Pete%2BGommersall%252C%2BRaindogs%252C%2BMalham%2BCove%252C%2BApril%2B%252787.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1232" data-original-width="848" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--CzIgflkzDE/XsjwZzAf90I/AAAAAAAACPo/hmH9vr6S6AoN9QM0IRaV_W27E4n7y1r5ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Pete%2BGommersall%252C%2BRaindogs%252C%2BMalham%2BCove%252C%2BApril%2B%252787.jpg" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gommy on Raindogs, Malham, 1987.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DxdkDrHp-BM/XsjwdhKgzxI/AAAAAAAACPs/ASInb8hC9_09szYyQB3bRT3KwTSFnNQmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Elaine%2BXR2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="835" height="249" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DxdkDrHp-BM/XsjwdhKgzxI/AAAAAAAACPs/ASInb8hC9_09szYyQB3bRT3KwTSFnNQmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Elaine%2BXR2.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Girl Racer, 1987.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hkgRqeuNjJA/XsjwhM7WsSI/AAAAAAAACPw/QZKl17NrQF0mPCJ0aqtF8hT_XCxivYcBgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Mike%2BXR2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="664" data-original-width="779" height="272" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hkgRqeuNjJA/XsjwhM7WsSI/AAAAAAAACPw/QZKl17NrQF0mPCJ0aqtF8hT_XCxivYcBgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Mike%2BXR2.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boy Racer, 1987.</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-39206336378019962742020-05-22T02:10:00.000-07:002020-05-22T02:10:21.720-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 29.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 29.<br /><br />I had a fantastic time during my four years at I.M.Marsh as a "mature" student. It was a great course, including learning how to become proficient in a wide range of outdoor activities, eg. climbing, mountain leadership, winter mountaineering, skiing, caving and canoeing. I was rubbish at canoeing, the roar of the Tryweryn (a section of horrendous white water near Bala) used to fill me with dread every time we went there. I even enjoyed the periods of teaching practice, that ultimately led to me becoming a science teacher.<br /><br />Most of the other students in my year group were younger than me and most had a general outdoor pursuits background. The only other real climber was <a href="https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100002413941525&__tn__=%2CdK-R-R&eid=ARC4_v11TONaI47eN1ZYeMxMuMrthB6dUaUHf8DmUi528c1c-QXdlpdmQw0leqEj0BI4CnUqO7K9R5bZ&fref=mentions">MarkFluff Taylor</a>. Unfortunately we were usually separated during any climbing trips. However we did manage to get out for a couple of hilarious days on Yorkshire limestone.<br /><br />Fluff didn't particularly enjoy studying in Liverpool and was a bit disappointed that there was more time spent studying on campus than in the outdoors. He also decided that he didn't want to become a teacher, so he packed it in and moved to Llanberis. That summer we did manage to spend a few days climbing on the slate, culminating in "Naked before the beast".<br /><br />Llanberis became Fluff's home, where he quickly settled into the local scene and climbed with many of the great names of those times. He's still there, enjoying the quiet life and appreciating being in the mountains with his partner Kate. Not surprisingly, he has no regrets about packing in teacher training!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wCdCKSBHi3I/XseWaKZDmVI/AAAAAAAACOs/POL-F4NBczY_xqyEuZrsuxFpqdnNIOSFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Fluff%252C%2BMalham%252C%2B1987.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="427" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wCdCKSBHi3I/XseWaKZDmVI/AAAAAAAACOs/POL-F4NBczY_xqyEuZrsuxFpqdnNIOSFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Fluff%252C%2BMalham%252C%2B1987.png" width="206" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fluff at Malham in 1987.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7HF7Dv0s7g0/XseWeOkGKYI/AAAAAAAACOw/zZkM--NodtQbPUypMXvgUKn3IlB2YkmKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Fluff%252C%2BGround%2BEffect%252C%2B1987.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="783" data-original-width="1170" height="214" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7HF7Dv0s7g0/XseWeOkGKYI/AAAAAAAACOw/zZkM--NodtQbPUypMXvgUKn3IlB2YkmKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Fluff%252C%2BGround%2BEffect%252C%2B1987.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fluff found a novel rest on Ground Effect at Kilnsey, 1987.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I8rr3hsNxCc/XseWg8MEjnI/AAAAAAAACO0/sqdObKFMTyEJvocxP_p7gstBGdR8lviegCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Fluff%252C%2Bslate%2Bquarries%2B1987.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="789" data-original-width="566" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I8rr3hsNxCc/XseWg8MEjnI/AAAAAAAACO0/sqdObKFMTyEJvocxP_p7gstBGdR8lviegCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Fluff%252C%2Bslate%2Bquarries%2B1987.png" width="229" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fluff at the Rainbow Slab, 1987.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jAj6F7MZDrI/XseWkgfNoeI/AAAAAAAACO4/QbL3qPvwJrI9mS4PL-PeR-bgQSjkyxLkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Fluff%2Bthe%2BTwatt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="540" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jAj6F7MZDrI/XseWkgfNoeI/AAAAAAAACO4/QbL3qPvwJrI9mS4PL-PeR-bgQSjkyxLkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Fluff%2Bthe%2BTwatt.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fluff hasn't lost his sense of humour!</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-6807339522291790152020-05-21T01:09:00.000-07:002020-05-21T01:09:07.518-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 28.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 28.<div>
<br />Immediately after my first year at I.M. Marsh, I spent a few days bivvying underneath the Shelter Stone (a huge rock underneath the crag of the same name) in the Cairngorms, with <a href="https://www.facebook.com/murray.hamilton.58?__cft__[0]=AZXOFEBwOHDBhxRW6dFxjel7RDhYUwLPV0X3BoCvShyfIMDQNMZQepSdrVXkcB-IhnLRjTvcVZGNgSszD9z4w9pLrokCLCrwPnpj0Fmeef8nagTS5nFhPPlYX-0HWhldchA&__tn__=-]K-R">Murray Hamilton</a> and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pete.whillance?__cft__[0]=AZXOFEBwOHDBhxRW6dFxjel7RDhYUwLPV0X3BoCvShyfIMDQNMZQepSdrVXkcB-IhnLRjTvcVZGNgSszD9z4w9pLrokCLCrwPnpj0Fmeef8nagTS5nFhPPlYX-0HWhldchA&__tn__=-]K-R">Pete Whillance</a>. </div>
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<br />Pete was a couple of years ahead of me, also studying Outdoor Ed (in the same year group as <a href="https://www.facebook.com/philip.davidson.902?__cft__[0]=AZXOFEBwOHDBhxRW6dFxjel7RDhYUwLPV0X3BoCvShyfIMDQNMZQepSdrVXkcB-IhnLRjTvcVZGNgSszD9z4w9pLrokCLCrwPnpj0Fmeef8nagTS5nFhPPlYX-0HWhldchA&__tn__=-]K-R">Phil Davidson</a> and Ian McMullan). He wanted to check out and hopefully climb a big new route on the impressive Shelter Stone crag.</div>
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<br />At the time, I was looking after Gavin Peat's new Vauxhall Astra whilst he was away somewhere. A nice long drive up to Scotland would be perfect to ran in the new engine. The three of us had a luxurious drive, none of us were used to travelling in such comfort. The car ate up the miles and eventually we parked up at the Cairngorm ski lift car park. It was a long walk and we had very heavy loads (Pete even had a long static abseil rope). </div>
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<br />Whilst it was a completely new experience for me, Pete and Murray both seemed very calm and laid back, they were obviously very familiar with the tasks of new routing in the mountains and knew each other so well.</div>
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<br />They did inspect their new line but, unfortunately, the weather wasn't very good, it was pretty cold and damp. So they decided not to try it. However we did do "The Needle" and "The Pin" whilst we were there, before making the sad decision that conditions weren't good enough. None the less, we had a fun time together (despite Pete's chain smoking). I was very relieved Gavin's car was where we'd left it (and even more relieved when he was really cool about the massive mileage we'd done in his new car).<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical climbing on the Shelter Stone. Murray Hamilton on "The Steeple" (photo Rab Anderson, from Extreme Rock). </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Murray Hamilton on "The Missing Link" (photo Rab Anderson from Extreme Rock).</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete Whillance climbing in typical waist belt at Hodge Close quarry (photo from Cumbrian Rock).</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-11227934270019696502020-05-19T03:06:00.000-07:002020-05-19T03:06:05.822-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 27.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 27.<br /><br />I actually met Paul Williams way back in 1975, whilst climbing at Willersley near Matlock with Sandy Dobie. At the time I remember thinking that he was a bit of a bumbler, simply because he was wearing an RAF jumper with shoulder patches, breeches and a bright orange Joe Brown helmet, all of which made him look more like a typical mountain rescuer as opposed to a climber.<br /><br />Some time later he moved to Llanberis and, obviously, we used to see him around a lot more. By then he looked like a typical climber, having adopted the standard Helly Hansen attire that was essential to look the part in those days.<br /><br />Paul became a legend; a font of knowledge for unclimbed lines, an amazing photographer, author of stunning guidebooks and a hilarious raconteur.<br /><br />The first time I climbed with him was at Tremadoc in '78. Paul, Jim Jewel and I had a race to see who could toprope Silly Arete the quickest. Obviously Jim won by miles (with a time of around two minutes), it was amazing to watch and we were all in hoots of laughter.<br /><br />On another occassion, in '87, Paul and I climbed Jim Perrin's excellent "Exterminating Angel" in Cwm Pennant, so that he could include it in a new and revised edition of his "Rock climbing in Snowdonia". It was a beautiful day and we had the whole cwm to ourselves.<br /><br />When Paul became a rep for DMM he sometimes stayed with us in St Helens. One day we travelled down to the Roaches for a classic day on the grit.<br /><br />The last time I climbed with him was at Rhoscolyn. We did the hard "Dreams and Screams" and then Paul led a new route with Elaine (that doesn't seem to have been recorded).<br /><br />Paul moved to Hathersage to spend more time "cruising the grit". Sadly we all lost another great friend when a hold snapped, whilst soloing "Brown's Eliminate" in 1995. I'm sure Elaine and I are not the only ones who miss him dearly.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-68564874346673930052020-05-18T02:54:00.000-07:002020-05-18T03:00:45.671-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 26.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 26.<br />
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I think the first time I met <a href="https://www.facebook.com/tim.lowe.186?__tn__=%2CdK-R-R&eid=ARA_uaricDNRMA6wVJ1cdN7zZumqJepQDyxwEwOyLCcyP_rNTnUPHrcZJnqi8yMT5zTfCH0RrsUZoFJA&fref=mentions">Tim Lowe</a> was at Tremadoc in '81, he was climbing nearby, with Ian McMullan, when Phil Ralph and I climbed Vulcan and Pippikin. It was the day after a party at Gavin Peat's place in Liverpool, from where we'd pilfered two cushion covers that we wore to climb in that day (we must have looked so stupid but we thought we were being really cool). Our dialogue was also rather special, on account of having watched a soft porn film the previous night. Again we thought we were being so cool when we kept asking each other "Have you ever shaved your t...?" whilst climbing. Whilst it did make a big impression on Tim and Ian, I can imagine everybody else must have found us really irritating, to say the least. Alas, such is the ignorance of youth!<br />
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I climbed a few times in the coming years with Tim, as he could sometimes get time off midweek (stuff like Ivory Madonna, Countdown, Apocalypse, Ceramic Extension and Mortlock's Arete spring to mind).<br />
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However, it was Tim who introduced me to sport climbing at Malham in '87. I was gobsmacked, he had Obsession, New Dawn and Mescalito totally dialled and made them look like paths. I wanted to be able to do the same and was hooked from that moment onwards. I haven't looked back since. Thanks Tim.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim at Kilnsey in 2010. Photo by Elaine Owen.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two photos of Tim strolling up Mescalito, Malham 1987.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim dogging at Malham. Photo by Dave Hinton.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim climbing Great Western at almscliffe. Photo by Dave Hinton.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim climbing Grand Illusion at Almscliffe. Photo by Dave Hinton.</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-36920896158720500342020-05-17T03:00:00.001-07:002020-05-17T03:00:21.465-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 25.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 25.<br /><br />Nowadays climbing walls have, in many cases I suppose, become the social hubs that local crags once were (and still are thankfully, though perhaps to a lesser extent). For Merseyside based climbers Pex Hill was where you'd meet new faces and make plans to go climbing. Then, in the winter of '82/'83, something rather significant occurred that allowed climbers from a much wider area to meet up and broaden their ideas.<br /><br />Until then there were only the Richard Dunn wall, in Bradford, and the Bolton Tech wall that were any good. The opening of a dedicated bouldering wall in Altrincham increased dramatically the potential for climbers to get fitter. No longer were there any excuses for not being fit after the long British winters.<br /><br />I'm sure that's what led to a huge improvement in my climbing suddenly that year. However that's a bit too simplistic, as we all know that motivation for climbing often depends on who you're with. Luckily for me a new character appeared on the local scene, who was very motivated and great fun to be with, he was keen to climb just about anywhere, even midweek. His name was <a href="https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100039353205278&__tn__=%2CdK-R-R-R&eid=ARCn2sNBKkEZMtyvuy5hhyQ3PtEZLGesHmvjBX7Mxejxx7CkFKWhc-FZkTDF9LGxyGxnPuptgM5kLvSl&fref=mentions">Simon King</a>.<br /><br />Simon had boundless amounts of energy. For example he'd insist on running back from the crag as if he wasn't tired after a long day's climbing. He'd usually proclaim with a massive grin at the top of every route, no matter what grade, that it was "E1 5b". Inevitably this became his nickname, and would be mimmicked by all his friends ad nauseum.<br /><br />So it was that Simon and I shared so many wonderful times, we did loads of amazing climbs together, starting with Nexus Direct (definitely not E1 5b!). We climbed everywhere: Wales, the Peak, Yorkshire limestone, the Lakes, the South West. The tick list is too long but here's a selection: JR, Ordinary Route, Amanita Muscarina, Wrinkled Retainer, Darkinbad the Brightdayler, Autobahn, Tales of Yankee Power, Creation, Blitzkrieg, L'ange en decomposition.<br /><br />I remember vividly camping besides the road, that leads up to the right wing at Malham, for a week in June 1985. We worked our way through the classics up on the Terrace, whilst Paul Pritchard, Mark Leach, Craig Smith and John Dunne equipped and worked what became Herbie and L'obsession.<br /><br />I did have a very close shave with Simon though. After leading the big pitch of Pinkginsane, in the Avon Gorge, he took me off belay and untied from both ropes, assuming that I'd be abseiling down to him on the hanging belay of Krapp's Last Tape. I couldn't find a suitable belay to abseil off, so decided to continue up the top pitch of Think Pink (a tricky 5c). Meanwhile the two ropes were just trailing below me (in effect I was soloing). Luckily I didn't fall off, it would have been a very long fall indeed. Haha!<br /><br />I'm glad that Simon's still as keen as he ever was and he still possesses his youthful enthusiam. Cheers!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qtkaJq6V7uc/XsEK4j0CwlI/AAAAAAAACMU/rtTZs42wPzMUGzSsGNtpmSFb7y_9eG8SACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/84533147_175653063756466_300504215862640640_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="956" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qtkaJq6V7uc/XsEK4j0CwlI/AAAAAAAACMU/rtTZs42wPzMUGzSsGNtpmSFb7y_9eG8SACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/84533147_175653063756466_300504215862640640_o.jpg" width="318" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two photos of Simon King climbing Godzilla at Rhoscolyn. He used to have a full head of hair when I climbed with him!</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-63831821199166626892020-05-16T03:34:00.000-07:002020-05-16T03:34:03.956-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 24.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 24.<br /><br />I already knew Dave Whitlow from my days at Ellis Brigham's in 1978. He was a friend of Ken Latham's, who used to regularly pop in with his then girlfriend Gill.<br /><br />Our paths crossed again three years later, when Elaine and I moved to Runcorn (during her probationary teaching year). By then Dave and Gill were married and were also living in Runcorn.<br /><br />Dave had also got into climbing. He was working at Brigham's in Chester, the shop manager was Stuart Cathcart. Isn't it a small world, the climbing community? Dave was also putting his artistic skills to great use, he was the creator of the "Wee Davey" cartoons that were gracing the pages of "High" magazine at the time.<br /><br />Although I only climbed with Dave a few times, one memorable weekend in early April (just before going to the Lakes with Ian McMullan - see previous post) stands out. We climbed Venom and Grim Wall Direct, at Tremadoc, and Resurrection on the Cromlech.I also had my first visits to Clwyd limestone with Dave and Stuart, a couple of rainy days at World's End and Pinfold.<br /><br />A few years later I ended up working with Dave in Brigham's Chester shop, where he was then the manager. Whilst it was a big improvement on Blacks (where I had spent the previous three dull years), my heart wasn't really in it (sorry Dave). It was time for a big change. I decided I wanted to become a teacher and went to IM Marsh to start my studies for the next four years.<br /><br />Nowadays Dave is the Creative Director at Ellis Brigham, where he is still putting his artist skills to use.<br /><br />Happy days, where did all those years go?<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the steps at Liverpool's Ellis Brigham shop, Dave Whitlow, Robbie Mallinson and Ken Latham, in 1980.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A more recent photo of Dave Whitlow.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An example of Dave's work, from a photo shoot for Ellis Brigham.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High up on Resurrection, that day so long ago in 1981. Part of Dave is just visible, bottom right in the striped top. Other climbers are on Left Wall (left) and Cenotaph Corner (right).</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-79096576794461439132020-05-15T02:43:00.002-07:002020-05-15T02:49:46.631-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 23.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 23.<br />
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Ian McMullan (aka "Ashwood") and I met at the Bolton Tech wall during the winter of '80/'81. We were both definitely members of the B Team (maybe even the C Team), so it was natural that we paired up and eventually made plans to climb outdoors.<br />
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At Tremadoc, we did the new version of "Mangoletsi" that went over the big roof direct (instead of traversing left into "Barbarian") and "Fingerlicker". Moelwynion Mel Griffiths was also with us.<br />
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Ian was a member of the Lancashire Teacher's Climbing Club. They had a hut near Langdale in the Lakes. We spent a dry (though chilly) week at Easter doing classics, such as "Eastern Hammer", "Cruel Sister", "Brain Damage", "Paladin" and "Stiff Little Fingers".<br />
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Ian were always telling jokes, they seemed even funnier told in his strong Clitheroe accent. I really enjoyed his company, he was always entertaining. As things turned out we were both doing teaching degrees at IM Marsh in Liverpool (though he was 2 years ahead of me, in the same year group as <a href="https://www.facebook.com/philip.davidson.902?__tn__=%2CdK-R-R&eid=ARCMOpJujFIrUcOmB5YADu9GAWv_Dn-m0rDf6HqTyuQ6Y-pDQ0PRsnu9a_0GDdRreTaZjK3k7KJXPwX_&fref=mentions">Phil Davidson</a>). Over the next few years we often teamed up midweek, at the end of summer, in the Peak, or on Clwyd limestone or at Malham.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two photos of Ian McMullan climbing "Traction Trauma" at Dinbren in 1986.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Rave On" at Chee Tor in 1986.</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6432466452536042119.post-23319482211986174442020-05-14T01:40:00.001-07:002020-05-15T02:49:10.899-07:00Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 22.Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 22.<br />
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John Peake lived even closer to Pex Hill than Eric, before moving down to North Wales. A very mild mannered fellow and a very competent climber, we had some cracking days cragging, including a big day on the Idwal Slabs ("Wall of the Dead", "Demetrius", "Wavelength Touch" and "Last Rites") as well as doing "The Disillusioned Screw Machine".<br />
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Sarah (John's wife) was also a very good climber (probably one of the best women climbers at the time, with a number of hard leads under her belt, eg. "Left Wall").<br />
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It was fun to meet up with them three years ago and relive happy old memories.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A more recent photo of Sarah and John Peake (lifted from Sarah's Facebook, thanks).</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John belaying me on "The Disillusioned Screw Machine" in 1984.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photos from a chance encounter with John and Sarah Peake on the summit of Carnedd Llewellyn in 1987.</td></tr>
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Mike Owenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07488003860381934428noreply@blogger.com0