jeudi 13 septembre 2012

Fatman and Robin

Fatman and Robin get high at Deverse

I really hate computers. I've just spent an hour and a half trying (unsuccessfully) to transfer some photos from my phone to my laptop and trying to get to read my emails. The problem is me, of course, as I'm not the most computer literate of my generation. I know this and yet it still doesn't prevent me from really disliking computers. If I see another "server not found" tonight this laptop will meet its maker, I promise!

Still, I'm pleased with today. Elaine filmed me on the classic Cayenne recently and last night I saw the result. I was shocked at what I saw. Not because of the ease at which this old giffer made it look (despite not having done it for a long time) but because I look so fat in the video. Now, I've never looked good in a harness, due to being short and wide. But, come on I've been baring my torso/flab down here for over 13 years in all kinds of weather (as I'm a hardy Brit) but nobody told me to cover up as the sight wasn't pretty!

                                            A more acceptable still from the Cayenne video.

So, I found an old vest to cover up today (especially as my climbing partner, Robin, is very lean and ripped, but he is nearly 20 years younger than me) and save the embarrassment for both of us. Now I did get lean when I was psyched for Mortal Kombat and Barjoland a few years ago now, but many beers and pain aux raisins have gone down the hatch since then. So, I was determined to stay covered today.

Chosen destination today: the new and very steep secteur above Deverse (in the fabulous Gorges du Loup) equipped by Ben Guigonnet. I was already sopping wet by the time we'd done the 5 minute walk in. Still, keeping a brave face, we climbed the vertical free-standing ladder and jumared up to the base of the climbs, leaving Scamp attached to a convenient tree at the bottom to sleep away the day.

Once we'd found the topo in a jar, Robin set off on the "voie de chauffe", a 7a+ on the right. He is much quicker than me to get geared up so takes the first lead and establishes the climbing order for the day. He doesn't realise its a ploy on my part to have the draws in and get the beta too!!!! Turns out to be a nice route which will improve with traffic.

Next up, we decide on a very steep 7b+ covered in tufas. Robin goes first of course, but misreads a move right and takes a hang. He continues to the last draw and takes another hang before reaching the chain. My turn. Now, if there is a knee bar to be found I'll get it and there are plenty. Getting the flash was very pleasing, albeit hot in my vest. Robin got it easily next go. However, the order has now changed. Mmmmmm, maybe not a good idea, perhaps I should have fallen just before the chain!

So, what next? its my turn. We both fancy the 7c which leads to the same chain. I scope the moves and work out its hard low down then lots of tufas and knee bars. The onsight goes well, apart from a scare when both feet zip after the crux. Robin benefits from my beta and makes it look easy. Both of us are grinning like young fools!

There's still plenty of gas left in both tanks for a look at the 8a on the right. My turn to go first again and work it out. However, both of us bloc at the bouldery crux and continue to the chain and then we're content to call it a day. We rappel back down to Scamp and walk back to our vans and go our separate ways, both absolutely chuffed to bits. I even managed to get an hour in the sun at home.

Then the computer........ Nothing a Leffe can't handle, of course!

Ben Decoster on Soul Sacrifice at Deverse "original", taken a couple of years ago. Today, we climbed at the higher secteur just appearing top left.

Saturday we plan to go to Cineplex in Italy for the day and check it out. Bring it on. I'll be there in my vest again, doing my bit for the crinklies!

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