La Reina de las Columnas

Sometimes photos can really inspire you. Such was the case when I saw the photo of Mariona Marti on La Reina de las Columnas (an 8a at Llaberia in Spain) in the 1st edition of Tarragona Climbs, nine years ago. I was captivated and had to try it. I did try it pretty soon afterwards. 

The photo of Mariona Marti that inspired me

Firstly, I failed miserably on a 7c+ called Los Gabachos and then did exactly the same on La Reina de las Columnas. Unfortunately, it was a damp and misty day, and I wasn't fit enough for either at the time. The years have passed (far too quickly) and I've not had the chance for a rematch. Until recently.

Elaine and I set off with a plan for a short 12 days in the Cali. We managed to avoid getting lost on the approach to the crag this time, despite it being misty again. Unfortunately, the black tufas at the start of La Reina were very wet so I needed to try something else.

I decided to try Los Gabachos again. As I sat on the rope, dogging the moves, I remembered that it was hard and the tufas were slopey and wondered to myself what was I thinking; what was I doing, why was I trying again? It seemed totally desperate, so there were no expectations as I set off on my next attempt (I've always called this 2nd go or 1st redpoint). I arrived at the crux section and rested at the kneebar, feeling relaxed and under no pressure, expecting to fall off pretty soon to be honest. However, I just climbed and, move after move, everything just went smoothly (although I was puffing away like an old steam train). Eventually, after lots of rounded tufas,  plenty of kneebars and a total body pump, I was clipping the belay. Flipping heck, that was totally unexpected and a big surprise. The buzz you get from climbing like that is amazing and so addictive, it usually lasts for several days.

Our trip continued with me climbing outdoors for 2 days, whilst Elaine climbed indoors (at Monobloc in Reus) on my rest days. 

Elaine looking strong at Monobloc

Next day, I managed El Conchito (7c/+) 2nd go before having a play on King of Bongo (8a), which I was able to do after my next rest day. A couple of really good 7cs were next in the bag, 3eme Millénaire and Combustion Spontanée.

Combustion Spontanée (7c), Eddie belaying

Eventually, La Reina de las Columnas dried out and I decided to take a look. It took a long time to work out the beta, which needed lots of fine tuning during 3 days of effort, patiently belayed by Elaine, Eddie and Ewan, much appreciated and big thanks guys.

So, the last day of our trip arrived, we had to go home the next day, no chance of staying any longer. Patience is very important in climbing, and it's good to keep your mind clear, stay calm and avoid putting yourself under any pressure. After all, it's only climbing, it's not that serious. Or is it? If it wasn't going to work out that day, there'd always be another time. It ended up being another of those zen moments when everything went perfectly (again there was lots of puffing like an old steam train). Amazingly I had realised my dream and it felt so good. I'm still enjoying that high, 3 days later. 

The start is hard

Long reach to gain the thin tufa

Trying really hard

Almost there

At the kneebar above the crux

I'm 65 years young and still climbing 8a. How the flipping heck is that possible? I don't know how, but I do know that I'm still hopelessly addicted to this crazy fun waste of time pursuit climbing up rocks. And long may it continue.

Ewan climbing Rififi au Tour de France (7b)

Ewan and Woody chillin

Great to catch up with Dave and Rhian Cross, Eddie Martinez and Ewan McCallum during our time in Spain. All outdoor climbing photos taken by Elaine Owen (big thanks kiddo).

Also: please be aware that the climbing at Llaberia is restricted from 10 January until 31 July. This is to encourage the expansion in the population of the rare Bonelli's Eagle.