Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 32.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 32.

Another I.M.Marsh trip, this time on a biology field course on Anglesey, in 1989, allowed Duncan Potter and I the chance to zap across to Gogarth to do Dinosaur. I had backed off it twice over the years, due to horrendous damp conditions. The key to this route is being patient enough to wait for the sun to arrive, later in the day, to dry it out. Our late arrival was ideal, this time connies were perfect.

I hadn't climbed with Dunc, he seemed pretty cool with the sportsplan, and I knew he'd done some pretty hard climbing, though not much recently. I led the first pitch and Dunc seconded it easily. He then led the second pitch, slowly and cautiously. I led the third pitch and we got back to the sacks just as it was getting dark. What a blast we'd had. Better than superb!

It turned out to be the start of a mega week of classic ticking on the Main Cliff, ("Mammoth" with Steve Foxley, "Mammoth Direct" with Elaine Owen, "The Big Sleep" with Ian Barker and "Skinhead Moonstomp" with Mike Waters). What an amazing week that was.

A sleepy looking Duncan Potter (photo by Chris Grazia Calvert, thanks).

I.M.Marsh day at Aldery Cliff, 1988. L to R: Jackie Smith, Simon Bates, Gavin Jones, Duncan Potter, Nancy Peterson, Paul James and unknown.

Dinosaur first pitch (photo by Jethro Kiernan, thanks).

Another view of the first pitch of Dinosaur (photo by Nadir Khan, thanks).

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 31.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 31.

A couple of very special days with The Big Man.

Towards the end of our second year at I.M.Marsh we went down to Wales to practice advanced climbing and rescue techniques, under the supervision of Gavin Peat. I was paired up with Paul Mills (aka The Big Man) a really mellow, happy Scot, whose forte was sailing.

The first day was spent at Tremadoc. Paul was assigned the task of leading Meshack, my job was to fall off the top pitch and be winched by Paul to the top. It was pretty gripping to be honest but we muddled through and survived the experience. Thereafter we were allowed to climb for fun. Paul and I went off and did The Plum and First Slip, before heading to Ynys Etws, the CC hut in the Pass, where we were going to spend the night. However, there was still enough daylight to run up to the Mot and do Superdirect. Whilst I'd done all of these climbs previously it was great fun doing them again with Paul, we had had a very good day indeed.

Next day the plan was to go to Cloggy. Paul and I decided to do White Slab (which I'd never done but Elaine had). We did alternate leads and were quickly wondering what to do next. Gavin told us to do Jelly Roll (which I'd never done before either). I was amazed how well Paul was climbing, he was on fire and there was no stopping him.

Back down at the sacks and all the other students were still climbing. So there was time for one more climb. With the early evening sun shining on us, there was only one choice really, it had to be Great Wall (which I had in fact already done some years before with Elaine). Ok, Paul was happy to second by then, but he climbed it very elegently, it was a real pleasure to watch The Big Man, grinning and climbing so well on such an iconic route. What a day we'd had.

Next day we all headed to Castell Helen on Anglesey and Nancy Peterson and I were paired together. This was the same place where I first climbed above the sea, with my old school mate John Roberts back in 1975, so I could appreciate just how Nancy felt that day, as I don't think she'd done much climbing. It turned out to be another wonderful day, I had a load of fun encouraging her and she made fantastic progress doing alternate leads on Rap and Pel. Brilliant!

Unfortunately Paul screwed up on the end of year exams, so he didn't return to college that autumn. Nancy passed and graduated with me (and everyone else) two years later.

Sadly, The Big Man is no longer with us, I miss him dearly. On a happier note, Nancy is living the dream with her family in Canada (though I don't think she went into teaching).

On the way to Cloggy in 1988. Gavin Peat, Paul Mills, Duncan Potter and Nancy Peterson.

Duncan, Nancy, Gavin (with camera) and Paul en route to Cloggy, 1988.

The Big Man fooling around.

The Big Man in his element.

The Big Man.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 30.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 30.

Fast cars and hard climbing in 1987.

John Hartley and I spent a few days at Pete Gommersall and Bonny Masson's place near Skipton and climbed at Malham and Kilnsey. John drove at warp speed in his RS2000 but I think Gommy was quicker in his Renault 5 Turbo. At the time Elaine and I had a white XR2 and Phil Davidson had a black XR2. We all used to drive far too quickly, it's a miracle that none of had any serious accidents.

Pete Gommersall, Bonny Masson, Maxine and John Hartley, Kilnsey, 1987.

Gommy, Exponential Exhaustion, Kilnsey, 1987.

The start of Exponential Exhaustion.

Pretty in pink on Exponential Exhaustion, Kilnsey, 1987 (both photos by Gommy).

The Overlap, Kilnsey, 1987.

Gommy on Raindogs, Malham, 1987.

Girl Racer, 1987.

Boy Racer, 1987.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 29.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 29.

I had a fantastic time during my four years at I.M.Marsh as a "mature" student. It was a great course, including learning how to become proficient in a wide range of outdoor activities, eg. climbing, mountain leadership, winter mountaineering, skiing, caving and canoeing. I was rubbish at canoeing, the roar of the Tryweryn (a section of horrendous white water near Bala) used to fill me with dread every time we went there. I even enjoyed the periods of teaching practice, that ultimately led to me becoming a science teacher.

Most of the other students in my year group were younger than me and most had a general outdoor pursuits background. The only other real climber was MarkFluff Taylor. Unfortunately we were usually separated during any climbing trips. However we did manage to get out for a couple of hilarious days on Yorkshire limestone.

Fluff didn't particularly enjoy studying in Liverpool and was a bit disappointed that there was more time spent studying on campus than in the outdoors. He also decided that he didn't want to become a teacher, so he packed it in and moved to Llanberis. That summer we did manage to spend a few days climbing on the slate, culminating in "Naked before the beast".

Llanberis became Fluff's home, where he quickly settled into the local scene and climbed with many of the great names of those times. He's still there, enjoying the quiet life and appreciating being in the mountains with his partner Kate. Not surprisingly, he has no regrets about packing in teacher training!

Fluff at Malham in 1987.

Fluff found a novel rest on Ground Effect at Kilnsey, 1987.

Fluff at the Rainbow Slab, 1987.

Fluff hasn't lost his sense of humour!

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 28.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 28.

Immediately after my first year at I.M. Marsh, I spent a few days bivvying underneath the Shelter Stone (a huge rock underneath the crag of the same name) in the Cairngorms, with Murray Hamilton and Pete Whillance. 

Pete was a couple of years ahead of me, also studying Outdoor Ed (in the same year group as Phil Davidson and Ian McMullan). He wanted to check out and hopefully climb a big new route on the impressive Shelter Stone crag.

At the time, I was looking after Gavin Peat's new Vauxhall Astra whilst he was away somewhere. A nice long drive up to Scotland would be perfect to ran in the new engine. The three of us had a luxurious drive, none of us were used to travelling in such comfort. The car ate up the miles and eventually we parked up at the Cairngorm ski lift car park. It was a long walk and we had very heavy loads (Pete even had a long static abseil rope). 

Whilst it was a completely new experience for me, Pete and Murray both seemed very calm and laid back, they were obviously very familiar with the tasks of new routing in the mountains and knew each other so well.

They did inspect their new line but, unfortunately, the weather wasn't very good, it was pretty cold and damp. So they decided not to try it. However we did do "The Needle" and "The Pin" whilst we were there, before making the sad decision that conditions weren't good enough. None the less, we had a fun time together (despite Pete's chain smoking). I was very relieved Gavin's car was where we'd left it (and even more relieved when he was really cool about the massive mileage we'd done in his new car).

Typical climbing on the Shelter Stone. Murray Hamilton on "The Steeple" (photo Rab Anderson, from Extreme Rock). 

Murray Hamilton on "The Missing Link" (photo Rab Anderson from Extreme Rock).

Pete Whillance climbing in typical waist belt at Hodge Close quarry (photo from Cumbrian Rock).

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 27.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 27.

I actually met Paul Williams way back in 1975, whilst climbing at Willersley near Matlock with Sandy Dobie. At the time I remember thinking that he was a bit of a bumbler, simply because he was wearing an RAF jumper with shoulder patches, breeches and a bright orange Joe Brown helmet, all of which made him look more like a typical mountain rescuer as opposed to a climber.

Some time later he moved to Llanberis and, obviously, we used to see him around a lot more. By then he looked like a typical climber, having adopted the standard Helly Hansen attire that was essential to look the part in those days.

Paul became a legend; a font of knowledge for unclimbed lines, an amazing photographer, author of stunning guidebooks and a hilarious raconteur.

The first time I climbed with him was at Tremadoc in '78. Paul, Jim Jewel and I had a race to see who could toprope Silly Arete the quickest. Obviously Jim won by miles (with a time of around two minutes), it was amazing to watch and we were all in hoots of laughter.

On another occassion, in '87, Paul and I climbed Jim Perrin's excellent "Exterminating Angel" in Cwm Pennant, so that he could include it in a new and revised edition of his "Rock climbing in Snowdonia". It was a beautiful day and we had the whole cwm to ourselves.

When Paul became a rep for DMM he sometimes stayed with us in St Helens. One day we travelled down to the Roaches for a classic day on the grit.

The last time I climbed with him was at Rhoscolyn. We did the hard "Dreams and Screams" and then Paul led a new route with Elaine (that doesn't seem to have been recorded).

Paul moved to Hathersage to spend more time "cruising the grit". Sadly we all lost another great friend when a hold snapped, whilst soloing "Brown's Eliminate" in 1995. I'm sure Elaine and I are not the only ones who miss him dearly.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 26.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 26.

I think the first time I met Tim Lowe was at Tremadoc in '81, he was climbing nearby, with Ian McMullan, when Phil Ralph and I climbed Vulcan and Pippikin. It was the day after a party at Gavin Peat's place in Liverpool, from where we'd pilfered two cushion covers that we wore to climb in that day (we must have looked so stupid but we thought we were being really cool). Our dialogue was also rather special, on account of having watched a soft porn film the previous night. Again we thought we were being so cool when we kept asking each other "Have you ever shaved your t...?" whilst climbing. Whilst it did make a big impression on Tim and Ian, I can imagine everybody else must have found us really irritating, to say the least. Alas, such is the ignorance of youth!

I climbed a few times in the coming years with Tim, as he could sometimes get time off midweek (stuff like Ivory Madonna, Countdown, Apocalypse, Ceramic Extension and Mortlock's Arete spring to mind).

However, it was Tim who introduced me to sport climbing at Malham in '87. I was gobsmacked, he had Obsession, New Dawn and Mescalito totally dialled and made them look like paths. I wanted to be able to do the same and was hooked from that moment onwards. I haven't looked back since. Thanks Tim.

Tim at Kilnsey in 2010. Photo by Elaine Owen.

Two photos of Tim strolling up Mescalito, Malham 1987.

Tim dogging at Malham. Photo by Dave Hinton.

Tim climbing Great Western at almscliffe. Photo by Dave Hinton.

Tim climbing Grand Illusion at Almscliffe. Photo by Dave Hinton.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 25.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 25.

Nowadays climbing walls have, in many cases I suppose, become the social hubs that local crags once were (and still are thankfully, though perhaps to a lesser extent). For Merseyside based climbers Pex Hill was where you'd meet new faces and make plans to go climbing. Then, in the winter of '82/'83, something rather significant occurred that allowed climbers from a much wider area to meet up and broaden their ideas.

Until then there were only the Richard Dunn wall, in Bradford, and the Bolton Tech wall that were any good. The opening of a dedicated bouldering wall in Altrincham increased dramatically the potential for climbers to get fitter. No longer were there any excuses for not being fit after the long British winters.

I'm sure that's what led to a huge improvement in my climbing suddenly that year. However that's a bit too simplistic, as we all know that motivation for climbing often depends on who you're with. Luckily for me a new character appeared on the local scene, who was very motivated and great fun to be with, he was keen to climb just about anywhere, even midweek. His name was Simon King.

Simon had boundless amounts of energy. For example he'd insist on running back from the crag as if he wasn't tired after a long day's climbing. He'd usually proclaim with a massive grin at the top of every route, no matter what grade, that it was "E1 5b". Inevitably this became his nickname, and would be mimmicked by all his friends ad nauseum.

So it was that Simon and I shared so many wonderful times, we did loads of amazing climbs together, starting with Nexus Direct (definitely not E1 5b!). We climbed everywhere: Wales, the Peak, Yorkshire limestone, the Lakes, the South West. The tick list is too long but here's a selection: JR, Ordinary Route, Amanita Muscarina, Wrinkled Retainer, Darkinbad the Brightdayler, Autobahn, Tales of Yankee Power, Creation, Blitzkrieg, L'ange en decomposition.

I remember vividly camping besides the road, that leads up to the right wing at Malham, for a week in June 1985. We worked our way through the classics up on the Terrace, whilst Paul Pritchard, Mark Leach, Craig Smith and John Dunne equipped and worked what became Herbie and L'obsession.

I did have a very close shave with Simon though. After leading the big pitch of Pinkginsane, in the Avon Gorge, he took me off belay and untied from both ropes, assuming that I'd be abseiling down to him on the hanging belay of Krapp's Last Tape. I couldn't find a suitable belay to abseil off, so decided to continue up the top pitch of Think Pink (a tricky 5c). Meanwhile the two ropes were just trailing below me (in effect I was soloing). Luckily I didn't fall off, it would have been a very long fall indeed. Haha!

I'm glad that Simon's still as keen as he ever was and he still possesses his youthful enthusiam. Cheers!

Two photos of Simon King climbing Godzilla at Rhoscolyn. He used to have a full head of hair when I climbed with him!

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 24.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 24.

I already knew Dave Whitlow from my days at Ellis Brigham's in 1978. He was a friend of Ken Latham's, who used to regularly pop in with his then girlfriend Gill.

Our paths crossed again three years later, when Elaine and I moved to Runcorn (during her probationary teaching year). By then Dave and Gill were married and were also living in Runcorn.

Dave had also got into climbing. He was working at Brigham's in Chester, the shop manager was Stuart Cathcart. Isn't it a small world, the climbing community? Dave was also putting his artistic skills to great use, he was the creator of the "Wee Davey" cartoons that were gracing the pages of "High" magazine at the time.

Although I only climbed with Dave a few times, one memorable weekend in early April (just before going to the Lakes with Ian McMullan - see previous post) stands out. We climbed Venom and Grim Wall Direct, at Tremadoc, and Resurrection on the Cromlech.I also had my first visits to Clwyd limestone with Dave and Stuart, a couple of rainy days at World's End and Pinfold.

A few years later I ended up working with Dave in Brigham's Chester shop, where he was then the manager. Whilst it was a big improvement on Blacks (where I had spent the previous three dull years), my heart wasn't really in it (sorry Dave). It was time for a big change. I decided I wanted to become a teacher and went to IM Marsh to start my studies for the next four years.

Nowadays Dave is the Creative Director at Ellis Brigham, where he is still putting his artist skills to use.

Happy days, where did all those years go?

On the steps at Liverpool's Ellis Brigham shop, Dave Whitlow, Robbie Mallinson and Ken Latham, in 1980.

A more recent photo of Dave Whitlow.

An example of Dave's work, from a photo shoot for Ellis Brigham.

High up on Resurrection, that day so long ago in 1981. Part of Dave is just visible, bottom right in the striped top. Other climbers are on Left Wall (left) and Cenotaph Corner (right).

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 23.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 23.

Ian McMullan (aka "Ashwood") and I met at the Bolton Tech wall during the winter of '80/'81. We were both definitely members of the B Team (maybe even the C Team), so it was natural that we paired up and eventually made plans to climb outdoors.

At Tremadoc, we did the new version of "Mangoletsi" that went over the big roof direct (instead of traversing left into "Barbarian") and "Fingerlicker". Moelwynion Mel Griffiths was also with us.

Ian was a member of the Lancashire Teacher's Climbing Club. They had a hut near Langdale in the Lakes. We spent a dry (though chilly) week at Easter doing classics, such as "Eastern Hammer", "Cruel Sister", "Brain Damage", "Paladin" and "Stiff Little Fingers".

Ian were always telling jokes, they seemed even funnier told in his strong Clitheroe accent. I really enjoyed his company, he was always entertaining. As things turned out we were both doing teaching degrees at IM Marsh in Liverpool (though he was 2 years ahead of me, in the same year group as Phil Davidson). Over the next few years we often teamed up midweek, at the end of summer, in the Peak, or on Clwyd limestone or at Malham.

Two photos of Ian McMullan climbing "Traction Trauma" at Dinbren in 1986.

"Rave On" at Chee Tor in 1986.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 22.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 22.

John Peake lived even closer to Pex Hill than Eric, before moving down to North Wales. A very mild mannered fellow and a very competent climber, we had some cracking days cragging, including a big day on the Idwal Slabs ("Wall of the Dead", "Demetrius", "Wavelength Touch" and "Last Rites") as well as doing "The Disillusioned Screw Machine".

Sarah (John's wife) was also a very good climber (probably one of the best women climbers at the time, with a number of hard leads under her belt, eg. "Left Wall").

It was fun to meet up with them three years ago and relive happy old memories.

A more recent photo of Sarah and John Peake (lifted from Sarah's Facebook, thanks).

John belaying me on "The Disillusioned Screw Machine" in 1984.

Photos from a chance encounter with John and Sarah Peake on the summit of Carnedd Llewellyn in 1987.