The rain in Spain .... Climbing in Rumenes.

We know that we've returned to the Mediterranean because the sky is blue. We've missed the sun so much during the past few weeks.

The main objective was to visit Cantabria and Asturias in northern Spain as a result of buying Richie Patterson's excellent new topo "Roca Verde". However the forecast was bad so we stuck to the sunny side of Spain to begin with.

The view from our doss spot high above La Hermida, Cantabria

First destination was a fairly new cliff called Culla about an hour north of Valencia. Thanks to Dave and Rhian Cross for the excellent info. However it was very tough on the Scali getting down the 2.5km track to a perfect doss spot overlooking the crag. The crag was in the shade with plenty of wind, we had the place to ourselves and the routes were on fantastic colonettes. Due to the uncertainty of not being able to get the Scali back up the track we decided to drive back up that evening (after doing Mojo Pican, a really nice 7a+, Mojita Matata, a great 7b+ and working a really long 7c). It was touch and go and needed some rally driving to make it back up. We made the long walk the following day instead which was an uphill killer at the end of the day in the full sun. (That day I did one of the best 7c's I've ever done called El Poder del Keler but I couldn't hang on the slopey crux of Generacion del Silencio, 7b+!) After that we decided to go somewhere else with a much shorter walk in.

Tufa paradise

El Fronton at Culla from the end of the track (photo by Elaine Owen)

Somewhere we'd never been to was Onati in the Basque. After only 2 minutes walk in I was motivated to do the 2 great looking tufa climbs where you arrive at the crag (Sonata, 7c and Mamba, 8a). However with very high humidity the climbing was hard work and it took me so long to do Sonata (completely pumped and covered in sweat) that I didn't bother even trying Mamba. It was great to make new friends, Gaizka and Sergio were really helpful and always good fun at the crag. Unfortunately, we never saw the sun during the 3 days we were there and we got fed up of the humidity and the rain.

It was finally time to drive on to Asturias at last. Driving along the autopista the scenery reminded us of North Wales. The mountains rise very steeply just a couple of km inland from the Atlantic in much the same way that the Carneddau rise above the villages of Penmaenmawr and Llanfairfechan. There was another similarity in that they were very often hidden by dark clouds and rain!

From the topo we sussed out the places that would keep us entertained: Poo de Cabrales and Rumenes. Both crags have plenty of colos and enough shade for summer cragging. The lower sector at Poo has great short routes from 6b+ to 7a which are super warm ups. The upper "Chorreras" crag is great for onsighting from 7a to 7b+ (the harder routes are not as good). The best routes we did were Mociviellos (6b+), Cencerrada (7a), Alanvista (7a+), Entremedusas (7b) and Kalima (7b+). Richie says that the 7c+ at El Corralito is very good and the 8a+ looks brilliant (though has probably only had one ascent apparently).

Dave and Rhian Cross on the 7a+ part of El dia del arquero at Rumenes

Ahhhh, Rumenes. What wonderful climbs there are to do there, long colonettes and not too steep. The canyon is so impressive and there is so much rock everywhere. It is an equippers paradise, if you're prepared to walk some. There will be a lot of development in the coming years. DON'T FORGET TO BUY THE TOPO BECAUSE RICHIE IS DONATING 20% FOR EQUIPPING. PLEASE DON'T PHOTOCOPY.

Sindrome de Stendhal, 50m of tufa heaven makes a great 8a (photo by Richie Patterson)

Jan from Czech Republic on the brilliant Rumenes power y al vino, 7a+

Asia from Poland flashing the excellent Cinderella Man, 7c

All the climbs at sector Chorreras are well worth doing, especially Rumenes power y al vino (one of the best 7a+'s anywhere) and the 50m 8a classic Sindrome de Stendhal. There are plenty of places to park up in the camper van in peace. On rest days the food and beer is very cheap in the climbers bar in La Hermida (Posada la Cuadrona) and there is a hot spring under the bridge.

We didn't get to Teverga which is the other must go to destination, though much more sunnier. That'll be at the top of the list for next time. The region is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to, the climbing is fantastic and the topo is amazing and so inspiring. I can't wait to go back.

CLIMB NOW WORK LATER

It's so long since I last wrote in my blog, but we've been ticking over in the Gorges du Loup. There have been some fine additions at Mesa Verde, for example Beer Fest (a short, powerful 7b+ equipped by Julien Bouquignaud), Pas de chocolat pour les Nicois font du ski (a long 7c equipped by Guillaume Ciais) and 3 hard test pieces between 8a and 8b equipped by the super prolific local legend Axel Franco.

2 views of Beer Fest. Hardin at the start and Yannick at the end (thanks to Marie-Jo Centofanti/Voyages a le Verticale).

At last we've finally reached the end of the school year and are ready to set off on our travels. First destination was Britain for a long weekend, visiting family and friends. Ewan and Brenna McCallum were as generous as ever putting us up in fine style in Liverpool again. It was lovely meeting up with my little sis Jessica, for Sunday roast at the The Walton Arms in Warrington, where Elaine and I had our wedding reception nearly 33 years ago. Also it was great to see Nige Hunt, who popped down with Jenny and his two boys, to have a beer with us. Pete Chadwick impressed us with his baby sitting skills, though we quickly made our excuses and left when he started singing "Old McDonald had a farm" to Naz's baby Sam.

We all live in a .......

Where we had our wedding reception in 1981!

Of course a trip to Liverpool wouldn't be complete without visiting the Hangar. We love that place! I'm sure if it was down here we wouldn't go climbing outdoors as much. It is brilliant to go and do new circuits every time we go there. Well done to Ged and his staff for making so many great problems and being so friendly. Elaine's finger was still swollen after straining it the week before at Mesa Verde, so she decided not to climb (which was probably the sensible thing to do, but I know she was very disappointed and frustrated).

We also went down to Wales. No we didn't get to climb the classics on the Cromlech again, as it was raining steadily all day, but we did get to call in at DMM (makers of the best climbing gear in the cosmos and owners of the coolest logo ever - "Climb now work later"). We chatted for ages with a youthful and fit looking Paul Simkiss. It was just like old times, with lots of banter and plenty of Politically inCorrect jokes thrown in for good measure!

OK so now we are back in France and should be heading off in the camper van tomorrow or Friday towards Asturias. Richie Patterson has produced an ace looking topo for this area in northern Spain. Between now and September 2015 we're going to Climb Now and Work Later. Bring it on!

Only 20 more gets ups!

It's a busy day today. I've been to the dentist for a check up (still no improvement with my paralyzed jaw after over 2 years), then I had to get the Control Technique (MOT) done on my van. This afternoon, I need to get 2 new tyres (as it failed the CT) and then I will be going to see Patrick, the kine (physiotherapist), who is nicely sorting out my stiff back. So, no chance of doing any climbing today.

I haven't been out with the Tuesday Club since before Easter. Most of them are now busy working and I've not been very motivated to climb locally. On a positive note, there are only 20 more times that I will have to get out of bed to go to work, before we go off on our travels.

So far, we are going to be visiting the following places during our 14 months off work:

Spain in Jul/Aug;
Kalymnos in Sept;
Iceland in Oct;
China in Nov/Dec;
Sicily in Jan;
skiing in Tignes in early Feb;
Misja Pec in Feb/Mar;
Spain for a few months.
Maybe, even look for a new place to live, as well.

Meanwhile, we have been ticking over at Jurassic Park, Cayenne and Mesa Verde. All the crags in Les Gorges du Loup are now dry and conditions are perfect. Last Sunday, it was nice to do something I hadn't done before. About 10 years ago, I had a brief look at a new 7b+ at Mesa Verde, called Ca va merder. I backed off it, because it was dirty and snappy. Now it is clean and provides great, tricky climbing. Nico did the Projet PHP/Arrowhead connection (a nice 7c). Elaine didn't climb as her finger was quite sore after working Cayenne on Saturday, but she took some nice photos:

26 years older and wiser

26 years is a very long time.

That's how long it is since we last went to Chulilla, near Valencia in Spain. We drove up for a day from Calpe with Ralphy and Mavis. We weren't impressed. We did some scratty, hard little climbs opposite the main car park in the village. We went for a walk, had a look around the gorge and were amazed at the potential. However, we drove the 3 hours back to Calpe and promptly forgot about the place.

Needless to say, there has been a lot of development in the last few years. Steady Eddie, Rich Kirby and Steve Crowe have all raved about the place. So, we decided to go and check it out this Easter.

We had a great time. However, it wasn't great for Elaine's finger, as most of the climbing is on small edges (though we did find some excellent tufa routes to keep her happy). However, once I got more used to the style of climbing I was as happy as the proverbial pig in shit, after failing on three 7a+'s on the first day!! Luckily, the harder routes were "easier", though there seems to be a lot of sandbagging hype on UKC users logbooks. I have to say, I found the climbing hard; the fingery climbing, slippery rock and the long routes meant you had to really concentrate for ages on each ascent. The location is really beautiful and it is perfect in a camper van. It's such a shame that there is litter everywhere and there are so many dogs at the crag.

I was happy with my small tick list after 10 days of climbing (despite not doing much onsighting): Danos Colaterales (7b+ os), Nivelungalos (7c), Los Caminantes (7c os), El Diablo Viste de Prana (7c+), Moon Safari (7c+), El Bufa (8a) and Tequila Sunrise (8a).

Finally, it was great to bump into some old friends from Britain: ex pats Dave and Rhian Cross, Gareth Scott and Geoff Goddard and Ian Vickers and Gill Peet.

Looking towards El Balcon from El Balconcito

Pampas Finas, a great 40 metre 7a+ warm up at Chorreras

A young lad (Will Smith from Sheffield) making El Bufa (8a) look like a path onsight

Will higher on the fantastic El Bufa

The tricky start to Moon Safari, a mega classic 40 metre 7c+

Time to celebrate with a chocolate biscuit

A rare photo of Scamp looking at the camera

Thanks to the Full English and coffee and croissants!

I have to say that most of the time I find Riviera Radio very irritating. However, I do like listening to Rob Harrison on the "Full English Breakfast" broadcast between 7.00 and 8.00 in the morning. After that the music goes down hill and the condescending adverts switch me right off, so I listen to my phone or iPod in preference. However, this Monday I tuned in on my way to school and heard an advert for Air France who were promoting cheap flights to, wait for it, Shanghai.

Now, one of Elaine's brothers lives in Shanghai and we have been intending on going to see him and his beautiful wife, Jenny, at some time during our year off work. Thanks to Air France we have got a great deal. We go in November, tickets booked and paid for. And we're going to go climbing to Yangshou as well. How good is that? Better than superb, I reckon! So, I guess I should say "thank you" to Riviera Radio. I just wish they'd play less of that modern crap "music" and get rid of that annoying American who does the stupid quotes, like "Is that a banger in your pocket, or are you pleased to see me". FFS Also, they should seriously consider what effect the flexigarden.eu adverts have on normal, sensible people. Word up, please.

Changing the subject:

Le Club du Mardi (The Tuesday Club) continues climbing at the Gorges du Blavet. It's the best option down here still, because the limestone crags with tufas are still pretty wet. It means that some of the Nice climbers are getting stuff done outdoors instead of pulling on plastic, which is fine by me.

This club includes legend Axel Franco, mega new route equipper Olivier Germain, super strong Fabien Paupert, Fred "Champagne" Oddo, mega strong pop-star-look-alike Alex Meije and me (baldy old Mike). The crack is as good as it ever was on the catwalk at Malham but there are no wet holds to contend with.

We always stop at the cafe before climbing and I'm always amazed at what my mates eat and how much coffee they drink. Until yesterday, I haven't drunk coffee before climbing for decades as it always made me way too wobbly on the rock. There were no such problems yesterday after a "grande creme" and a "pain aux raisins". Oh dear, this could become a habit!

Fabien tucking into a croissant coated in cheese

Olivier, Alex, Fabien and Axel going for it! Will they manage to get off the ground?

Scamp asking for some coffee and a roll up!

Things went very well yesterday, we all did some great climbing. However, each one of us left (apart from Fred and Alex who were marked absent this week) with unfinished business. Hopefully to be finished some time soon. Maybe this weekend. If not, next Tuesday.

Yes, yes, yes!

Not long after moving down here, we bumped into Pete and Lynn Cumming. They had done the same as us. Originally from the Bristol area, they had moved to the Cote d'Azur several years before us and were enjoying the lifestyle, which included lots of sun, wine and of course great climbing.

I knew Pete, but only by name, because he had taken a very long groundfall whilst trying to make an on-sight ascent of a climb I was involved in putting up in Pembroke. He was also very well known for hard ascents at Malham and had put in a lot of effort trying to do Mark Leach's Cry Freedom. I think we actually first met each other at la Grotte du Peillon (Pete was climbing with Philippe Gatta). Then we bumped into each other at the Gorges du Blavet. 

I remember very clearly Pete telling me that he'd tried Poupoune, which is a frightening looking 7c+ at Blavet. He said it was really very hard for the grade and very run out. Understandably, I have avoided this climb for the fourteen years since that conversation took place and Pete and Lynn have long since moved back to Bristol! That is, until last week, when I saw an ace photo of Alex Zuttre's posted on Facebook, showing another expat Brit living down here called Felix Coxwell. When I saw that photo I just had to go and find out how scary that climb was. All of a sudden I wanted it badly! How strange is that?

The toil and trouble started (not very promisingly) when I went there with Axel, Olivier, Fred and Sophie last Tuesday. The moves were hard, reachy, technical, on small holds and, yes, very run out in places. It seemed really hard, especially near the top when you'd be really tired. I was falling off again on Saturday, when I went with Marie-Jo and Julien. I actually thought at that point that I couldn't do it, due to a lack of reach on the crux at the top, that is if I was even able to link it together all the way up to there. 

However, yesterday Fred Oddo and I both managed to link together all the tenuous moves to clip the chain on our second runs! Fred typically cruised it in fine French style, whereas I had to fight really hard in the bull dog spirit all the way (just ask Sheila Stark, she'll agree). Still, we were both very happy chappies leaving the crag, despite spending 3 days on a 7c+. To cap it all Liverpool beat Man U at Old Trafford finishing off a truly ace day.

What's next? There's a very nice looking 8a just to the left.....

However, it was quite a sad day, too. It was the first time I've gone out climbing without taking Scamp. She was absolutely knackered after Saturday and could hardly walk (she is now eleven and a half years old and she's slowing down). However, she's had two rest days and she's looking good for tomorrow. Fingers crossed!

Sweety Pie, 6a+ warm up.

Setting the draws on Saturday on Poupoune

That great photo of Alex Zuttre's again, thanks mate!

Scamp watches whilst I struggle (thanks to Marie-Jo Centofanti / Voyages a la Verticale for the photos)

All good on the beautiful Cote d'Azur

Weather on the Cote d'Azur is back to normal, in other words dry, sunny and the colours and light are amazing right now. Consequently, the crags are drying out (slowly for the crags with tufas) and the cave dwellers from Art-Bloc and Val de Grimpe have been getting outdoors to play. Yippee, all is good fun and everybody is smiling!

Mesa Verde in the Gorges du Loup and the Gorges du Blavet crags are proving very popular, as they are very quick drying.

Elaine and Scamp at Mesa Verde

Hardin and Kirsty getting ready to warm up in the sun at Mesa Verde

Manu about to warm up on Pas de Bras, Pas de Chocolat belayed by Diane

Axel warms up in trainers! (photo by Elaine)

Marie-Jo wearing great colours on her 7b+ project (photo by Elaine)

Julien wears normal blokes colours on the same 7b+ (photo by Elaine)

Baldy on Projet PHP, 7b+ at Mesa Verde (photo by Hardin Pardede)

A day at Blavet with friends:

Olivier Germain warming up on La Coupe est Pleine, 6b+ (so hard to get good photos at Blavet)

Fred Oddo warming up on a classic 6c

Olivier belaying Fred

Fred starting up Poupoune, 7c+

Sophie sending her first 7a, Los Olvidados, bravo et chapeau!

Fred higher on Poupoune

Local legend Axel Franco sending an 8b, bravo gar!

A much better shot of Felix Coxwell on Poupoune, taken by Alex Zuttre

Finally, I was well chuffed to do Gaia (2nd go) at Montgrony, when we had a quick 4 day visit there during the February holiday. I'd always wanted to do this classic 7c+ after seeing an ace photo in Roc n Wall from 1998. Anant amb croses (7c) was also great fun, though I had to red point it as I blew the on-sight. However, Calabruix (8a/8a+) was too hard and needs another visit, probably during our year out.

The photo from Roc n Wall showing Laurent Triay climbing Gaia at Montgrony