Whilst we were climbing in La Drôme, a couple of weeks ago, we heard that the approach to La Ramirole (in the Gorges du Verdon) had recently been improved and was much easier. Previously it was exhausting getting to and from the crag with Ruff. I had to make the descent (via abseils, a via ferrata and handlines) with my sack and rope, leave them at the bottom and then return to pick up Ruff, put her in a large rucksack and descend again. At the end of the day the whole process had to be reversed. So La Ramirole was complicated. Plus it wasn't a good crag for Elaine, as you need to be climbing at least 8a to get the most out of it.
There were a number of reasons why I gave up 5 years ago, for example: it was too hot, it was too humid, the skin on my fingers was too sore, there were too many strong climbers using it as their warm up, and so on, yawn yawn. But mostly I gave up because I wasn't good enough. However, I felt that with a different mindset, and being in better shape, the outcome would be different this time round.
Et dieu créa la flamme was equipped by Antonin Rhodes about 10 or so years ago, it is considered to be one of the most beautiful routes of it's grade at La Ramirole (and probably the whole of the Gorges du Verdon). It consists of 40 metres of sustained and very steep climbing mostly on tufas, sparsely protected by only 14 bolts (it definitely feels run-out). Surprisingly there are lots of good holds and lots of kneebars too, but the climbing is always very physical because the holds are usually far apart, and there is also a tricky fingery section between the floor and the 2nd bolt. Overall it's a great physical and mental challenge that is sheer bliss to try and eventually succeed on.
The 1st day was cool and windy, perfect for working the moves and making links on the easier sections. On the 2nd day I went from the 2nd bolt all the way to the top, so it was definitely possible (unfortunately I hadn't worked out the best sequence for the difficult start). The 3rd day was really far too hot and doesn't really count. However it went like a dream on my 1st attempt on day 4, belayed by Pete Chadwick and after only warming up on the 6c.
Thanks to Elaine, Santi Garcia and Julien Bouquinaud for the belays and encouragement over the 4 days spent there during the last week. It's a dream come true and I still can't believe it!
Climbing Et dieu créa la flamme is up there with other memorable days spent in the Verdon, such as:
La Demande with Elaine in '83, taking all day, finishing in the dark and having to walk all the way back to La Palud;
Dingomaniaque with Joe Picalli, also in '83;
Le Triomphe d'Eros with Al Simpson, again in '83;
L'Ange en Decomposition with Simon King, in '84;
Surveiller et Punir with Dave Turnbull, also in '84;
Elaine and I hot on the heels of Jim Hewson and Pete Chadwick on Rêve de Fer, again in '84;
a 1 day/1st red-point ascent of Seance Tenant (belayed by my ever patient and long suffering wife Elaine in '97).
Such a stunning place to climb and so many happy memories. However, I have another score to settle with Triste Lune over at Petit Eycharme sometime. Bring it on!
Thanks to Elaine and Pete for the photos.
