samedi 30 mars 2019

Perfect Spring conditions in Rodellar

Ah, Rodellar. C'est le paradis.

Rodellar (tucked away at the end of the road in the Sierra de Guara National Park, in between Barbastro, Huesca and the Pyrenees in Aragon, Northern Spain) has to be one of the top places I've climbed anywhere in the world. Elaine and I had already been three times; twice in summer and once at Easter.

We've found summer too hot really, plus it's always very busy with climbers, canyoners and general tourists. Camp sites tend to be rammed and it's noisy when you're trying to get to sleep, the very friendly Spanish climbers (in the tent next door) have just come back from the bar and started cooking at 22h30 and they don't understand why you want to go to sleep at such an early hour. When you do get to the crag there's usually lots of crazy climbers' dogs running around all over your gear and intimidating your well-behaved, attached dog. Doesn't sound much fun, does it? But sometimes you just don't have a choice during school holidays so you just have to put up with it.

On the other hand, when we went at Easter it was much quieter and conditions were perfect for climbing. However, if it's been a wet winter, there will be lots of seepage, so best to go elsewhere.

Eddie and I made plans for a quick 2 week visit in March, without our lovely wives (Mandy was going to meet up with some of her family in Cypres and Elaine was busy working). I flew from Nice to Barcelona for next to nothing. Eddie picked me up and we stayed in one of Fina's (as in the climb called "Gracias Fina") excellent apartments at Valle Rodellar Apart Hotel, from where it's possible to walk to all the sectors. Once in Rodellar you don't need a car.

We were amazed how quiet the crags were and they were also totally dry. We were lucky to experience the best conditions (at this time of year) for a long time. The only problem was us! I'm almost 61 and Eddie's 57, so we're getting on a bit. The climbing at Rodellar is very steep and physical, the grades are tough (often total sandbags, eg "Ambicion Cero" at 7c+, "El Sepes" at 7c+/8a, plus all the routes that have lost holds at Surgencia that haven't been upgraded).

Anyway, we tried our best and had a fab time. Eddie did well to keep up with my 2 days on, 1 day off routine (though he refused to join me in a 4 days on stint at the end, well you just have to bite the bullet some times don't you?). Now, when will we be able to do it again, I wonder? There's so many king lines to do, I've got to go back again, some time......
Eddie and Gran Boveda.

Rodellar from Fina's terrace.

The climbing is very steep, lowering off El Sepes at Gran Boveda.

Sophie Milios Gibbens climbing "Bugs Bunny" (6a+) at El Camino.

Bob Stones climbing "Para mis amigos" (6a+) at El Camino.
Bob Stones climbing a technical 6a+ at Las Ventanas.

Laia from Lleida climbing her first Rodellar 7a (Vis a Vis at Las Ventanas). 

Eddie and the window of Mascun. Made in Mascun (7c+) climbs strenuously all the way across the cave.

El Delfin from the window of Mascun.

El Delfin, Las Ventanas.

See caption below.

Two views of the same section on the iconic El Delfin, 7c+.

John Lynch on the superb Acravita, 8a, Las Ventanas.

Strong, young climber on El Sepes (8a) at Gran Boveda.

Seriously strong climber almost on-sighting the seriously steep "No Bouchon Spirit" (7c+) at Las Ventanas.

The village from Gran Boveda.

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