mardi 9 juin 2015

Inspiring news from the UK climbing scene (and some punter action in Spain)

Shocking how quickly time passes, but that 's nothing new or surprising. What I mean is it's so long since I wrote on this blog.

We've just returned from a nice long journey through Spain, meeting up with lots of great friends and climbing in some ace places.

However, I'd like to mention some truly inspiring news from the UK climbing scene, which Stu Littlefair summed up so perfectly on Facebook by posting something like this:

"Everybody stop what you're doing. Ben Moon has just climbed Rainshadow. Now, carry on."

Most climbers will understand the significance of this news, but non-climbers will need some help. We are talking about a 48 year old bloke succeeding in climbing one of the hardest climbs in Britain. The climb is graded 9a. Ben did his last and only 9a (which has since turned out to be the first climb to be given that grade anywhere in the world) 25 years ago. Ben was the fourth person to climb Rainshadow yesterday. So, there you go. A really amazing achievement by one of the sports legends throughout the last 4 decades. Well done Ben Moon.

Rainshadow is the long extension to the classic Raindogs, which is a very popular and slippery 8a above the Catwalk at Malham Cove (which I did about 50 times before leaving Britain in 1999). I think I'm right in stating that it was originally equipped and tried by Mark Leach in the early '90's. Several years later Steve McClure took up the challenge and finally climbed it in 2003.

The view on a very cold March day from Ager. 
Ben and Caryl looking so happy after a year travelling and going back to the UK with loads of wonderful memories (photo by Elaine Owen).

A bright and crisp morning at Ager, wonderful and totally FREE! (photo by Elaine Owen).

All the flowers were coming out towards the end of March.

Ruff experiencing some difficulty whilst trying to train Dave and Rhian Cross.

Meeting up with old mates is always great fun, even if they're Porky and the Colonel!

Falling asleep with a pine cone in my mouth and my mum is trying to give me the squeaky ball!


2 photos of Guillaume Bouloumie on his own route, the brilliant Naranga, 8a+ at Super Devotas.

Steve Crowe on Peril Jaune, a very steep 7c+ at Super Devotas.

Me at (more or less) the same place as Steve in the previous photo (photo by Steve Crowe).

Lowering off after a successful red point, Super Devotas is really steep (photo by Elaine Owen).





jeudi 29 janvier 2015

Ruffin' it and unfulfilled ambitions in Sicily

For a few days my dad and I had been spending some time chilling together in the big blue thing parked in the garage downstairs. I just went along with the flow, it was well worth it coz my dad kept giving me little treats. I was pretty cool about going inside and just listening to him telling me that I was a very good dog. I even put up with his choice of music, it didn't surprise me as I've already been listening to it for a few weeks now. Then, one day, he turned a key thing in the ignition and the big blue thing sprang into life and made lots of noise. That was OK too, because I've been going here, there and everywhere in his little white thing that he has to park on the village car park for a few weeks by now anyway. However, I got the impression that the big blue thing was very special, so I made sure that I didn't have a pee in it whilst my dad was prattling on at me and, once again, my dad said "Ruff, you're a very good dog" and I got even more treats! These humans are so easy to train, it's amazing. My dad will soon be rounding up sheep!
Me in the big blue thing as we set off for Sicily

Then it all made sense! We all set off on my first adventure. We went off to an island called Sicily which was part of a weird country called Italy. The idea was that my mum and dad were going climbing with my uncle Eddie and auntie Mandy. Don't ask me, alright? Yes, I know, I think it's a bit stupid too but each to their own, I say. Anyway, all was super cool, coz I really love my uncle Eddie and auntie Mandy. They let me get away with so much more than my mum and dad. I can leap all over them and uncle Eddie even lets me fool along with him on his bed. I never get near my mum and dad's bed even though it looks so much more comfortable than mine. At least they allow me to sleep in their bedroom.....
Me and my uncle Eddie

I could tell my mum and dad were dead excited about this trip and that's why they'd been taking me down the climbing wall so many times. My dad had even made a flipping wishlist on that UKClimbing website thing, bless him.

The "voyage" went very well. We drove to Genoa and got on a big boat. We were on that for 21 hours and my mum and dad had to take me up on the deck to the "Fido Park" when I wanted the toilet. Mostly we all just slept and some times my uncle and auntie came to see us in our cabin. Unfortunately, I wasn't allowed in the restaurant or bar, I'm so glad we live in France!
My uncle Eddie and auntie Mandy

Me with my mum, uncle Eddie and my dad

When we got off the boat, I could tell my dad wasn't happy. He was moaning at the poor road signs and having lots of trouble finding the way. He said something like "FFS, where's the f...... the autostrada?" We drove to what seemed like a lovely beach near St Vito Lo Capo, after giving up trying to find some friends called Nat and Pat at a cliff near a horrible place called Mondello.
When we woke up, we discovered that the place was covered in loads of broken glass. At least there was lots of sheep poo to eat!
My mum leading at Parco Cerriola in the sun!

The first day was great fun. The sky was blue and it was nice and warm. My mum and dad were really happy too. Then my dad got really pissed off as he couldn't hold on to the holds on an easy 7b climb that was covered in what he called "Gogarth soap". Next day was not so good and my mum and dad just got a warm up done before the heavens opened and we had to go and chill out in The Climbing House where Ivan made lots of fuss over me, it was much nicer than being at the crag.
The main street in St Vito during the first thunder storm

Next day, we went to a big piece of rock apparently called Never Sleeping Wall. My dad is so pathetic, right, he nearly wet his pants when he set eyes on it. However, he was soon moaning again about that Gogarth Soap stuff and he really got angry when he greased off. We went back the next day, too. By all accounts it was a "top day" and my mum and dad didn't find any Gogarth Soap or grease off any holds. They actually managed to do some flipping climbing. Amazing, eh?
My amazing uncle Eddie flashing Il Patrone Nero (7c)

We then had even more rain for a couple of days and we all got pretty bored stuck in the camper van. We even went walking to the Crown of Aragon cliff in the rain, which was fine by me until a nasty Rottweiler dog at the cliff attacked me. I was so glad my mum and dad decided to go back down and not climb there. I was very frightened.
The usual weather

It rained all night but the morning was clear and very windy. So we went back to Never Sleeping Wall. My dad wanted to do Superman, one of the climbs that he'd already greased off. The cliff looked pretty wet. So, to save my dad failing again I decided to bark at the cows. I knew that that would get the attention of the nasty dog that guards them and, sure enough, it soon arrived and barked and barked at us until we packed up and left. I'm so sorry my dad didn't realise one of his dreams, though it wasn't really my fault.
My dad on Superman

We then drove to a place called Syracusa on the other side of the island. On the way we saw a volcano called Mount Etna, it was very big and covered in snow. Things seemed promising, despite the rain. However, after climbing at 3 supposedly fantastic (but in reality very ordinary) cliffs we'd had enough and decided to leave for home. Guess what the weather was doing all the last day? You guessed right, it was chucking it down.
Me in our cabin on the way home

It's great to be back home, where I've got much more room and I don't get wet all the time and bring in mud on my paws. My mum and dad say that we're going to somewhere called Spain in a couple of days. I hope it's nice and dry and we can get lots of fresh air and sunshine. My mum and dad say it's much better than Sicily and that the climbing in Sicily is all hype.

Meanwhile, I'll get back to work on training my dad!
The only nice sunset we saw


mercredi 7 janvier 2015

Ruff stuff

We've taken 16 flights and travelled many thousands of miles since we finished work last July. Quite frankly we were both pretty tired and wanted to just chill out at home for a few weeks over Christmas and New Year. So we had the perfect opportunity to find ourselves another border collie. I haven't been so happy for a long time!

Losing Scamp had put me in a very melancholy mood for a few months, despite all the fun we were having on our travels. (That is the sort of thing that us depression sufferers have to put up with from time to time.) It just wasn't right that we hadn't been there when she died and we couldn't just go and get another dog straight away. Now all our flights are finished and we're going to be travelling in the Cali from now on. So we've been spending quality time with Ruff and trying our best to get her used to travelling, which has had it's ups and downs. Typically we have had to stop and clean up the mess inside my poor Renault van twice on our way to the cliff or climbing wall, but she is getting better.

Otherwise, Ruff is settling in well at home and is getting used to going out for walks and meeting different people. She is making us very happy and healing our broken hearts.

Next week Eddie and Mandy Martinez will be arriving on the Cote d'Azur, then we'll be going on to Sicily for about 6 weeks. We can't have Mark Hetherington having all the fun and being the only one to climb all the best routes out there!!
Great to catch up with the Chadster at the Climbing Hangar in Liverpool

Great to see so many old friends from the Liverpool area
Elaine climbing a 6c at Chouchou Place (photo by Marie-Jo Centofanti/Voyages a la Verticale)

Trying a new 7c at Chouchou Place (photo by Marie-Jo Centofanti/Voyages a la Verticale)

Le Rouret climbers enjoying a raclette chez Owen's

A visit to Smerl's rock on the hill behind our house

My dad keeps disturbing me when I'm trying to sun bathe!

Whilst mum and dad are (trying) to watch 24 (season 9) I can stretch out on mum's lap


dimanche 14 décembre 2014

Climbing in Yangshuo

During our year off work we decided to go and see Elaine's brother Dave and his wife Jenny in Shanghai. We got half price tickets from Air France during a promotion early in the year for 1040 euros in total. We also decided to combine the visit with climbing in Yangshuo.

After an 11 hour flight from Paris we went straight to Jenny's parents place in the ancient town of Xin Chang, where BaBa had prepared us our first Chinese meal which included spring rolls, dumplings and chicken and green beans in ginger. Afterwards BaBa took Dave and I on his small motorbike down to the local market (yes there were 3 of us on the bike and none of us wore helmets!). Dave was only too keen to point out the delicacies, eg. pigs' noses, chickens' feet, ducks' heads (including beaks), pigs' intestines, skinned frogs, turtles and so many different types of fish!






That evening BaBa and MaMa prepared a massive meal of at least 10 different dishes and we were introduced to the older and most important members of the family. The food was amazing though the "Yellow Wine" was absolutely disgusting. That night we tried to get over our jet lag with stuffed bellies.

Next day we moved to Dave and Jenny's apartment in the new part of Pu Dong about 45 minutes drive away. We noticed straight away a massive increase in traffic noise and tooting horns as well as a marked decrease in air quality. I suppose it's understandable as 23.5 million people live in Shanghai!

It was with relief that we finally left the city on the 4th day and took a flight to Guilin and then a taxi on to Yangshuo. We had booked a room in a small hotel opposite the world famous Moon Hill cliff about 6 km south of Yangshuo, which proved to be a very smart move as it was much quieter and cleaner than in Yangshuo town.
The view from our balcony

Pu Yue Ju, our lovely hotel 

Next morning we hiked up the steps for 30 mins to arrive at the cliff, which consists of an arch with lots of stalactites hanging down offering steep climbing on good holds. Whilst our initial impression was that it was pretty small, compared to the crags we climb on in Europe, it looked as though we'd have lots of fun nonetheless. However on closer inspection we noticed that all the first and many of the second bolts had been removed. That was definitely a bad thing as it meant I'd have to climb higher before clipping the rope in for safety. So we started off with an easy 6a on the right and then Elaine would clip the rope into the lowest bolt of the next route as she lowered down and that way we'd be able to top rope the starts. We did three nice warm ups and then I decided to go for it on Over the Moon (Todd Skinner's famous 7b+) despite the absence of the 1st and 2nd bolts. The climbing up to the 3rd bolt at 8 metres was precarious at about 6b+. After that it really steepened up but the holds were great and there were plenty of knee bar rests (plus all the bolts were in). Unfortunately half way up the climb two park officials arrived and told us to stop climbing. Each time I clipped a bolt they shouted "Hello, come down, no climbing". They didn't understand that I had to get to the chain in order to come down. Eventually I lowered down, stripped the draws and then we had to pack in. We didn't climb there again and I didn't get to do Red Dragon (8a/8a+) which was my main objective for the trip. I was absolutely gutted!
Moon Hill and the view towards our hotel. Over the Moon climbs up the right side of the arch (photo by Elaine)

Raul from Andalucia on Seb Grieve's Honky Tonk (7c) at Lei Pi Shan

After that we had to climb at lots of other crags, sometimes walking or using a bicycle to get there. At this point, I have to say that we were generally disappointed with most of the places we climbed and we did find ourselves counting down the days until we could escape. Most crags were very over rated and only had a handful of climbs. Most climbs were super polished. Lei Pi Shan and White Mountain were the most polished, despite (or because of) having some really great climbs. It was utterly frustrating to fall off 7a's and 7b's because your feet zipped off the glassy footholds. I completely lost my normal confidence and dared not try anything hard. Another irritating factor was the topo. "Yangshuo Rock Climbs" has to be the worst climbing guide we have ever had the misfortune to use (even worse than the Alpes Maritimes topo and that's saying something!). We found the maps, directions and hand drawn topos totally inaccurate and the route descriptions were full of unhelpful American hype.
The Stone Dog, 6a+ at White Mountain (photo by Elaine)

Merry Christmas, 6c at White Mountain (photo by Elaine)

Korea No. 1, 8a at White Mountain (photo by Elaine)

Eventually we returned to the noise and smog of Shanghai. Dave and Jenny gave us a great tour taking in the incredible views of the sky scrapers and then we boarded the plane to Paris. We'd had a great adventure and we were actually a bit sad to leave. However, during the flight down to Nice I sat next to a window and watched the sunrise. As we headed south we flew past les Alpes, Le Lac St Croix, over the Gorges du Blavet and over the Esterel, over Ile St Margeurite and Cap d'Antibes. It was a beautiful morning, the sky was clear and blue. It reminded me how lucky we are to live in such a lovely part of the world and it was great to be back home!
The weary climbers returning from White Mountain

Jenny and Dave

Brother and sister are very alike



PS
Yesterday we looked at some 14 week old border collie puppies. We chose a tricoloured female who we've called Ruff (because Scamp used to ruff when she barked). We are going back to pick her up next Saturday after our short visit to Liverpool. Her first adventure will be in Sicily. Bring it on!
So beautiful! 3 females left to chose from. Ruff is on the right.