Climbing at La Moreria (Valencia region of Spain)

After Elaine's fingers had recovered from their arthritis injections, we headed off to Spain. We optimistically thought it would be for 4 or 5 weeks, that's what we were hoping anyway. 

I'd always wanted to climb at La Moreria (see "Levante North" topo) in the Valencia region of Spain, so we headed there. Our first impressions were a little disappointing to be honest. The crag didn't look as good as the topo suggested, it looked rather dirty and kind of blocky at the base, especially after a 40 minute walk-in! However it was obvious that the rock quality improved after the first 5 metres or so and there were several tufas higher up. My main objective was the classic 8a called "El poder del carajillo" which looked fantastic. Unfortunately the easier routes on the right were in the shade all day, which meant it would have been far too cold for Elaine to try those, but there was a really good 7a+ just right of the 8a, called "La banda de Calanda" which she was happy to play on. Initially it was a bit too cold and windy for us but, after a couple of days, the temperature warmed up and conditions were perfect. We were the only climbers for the first few days, after that we were joined by two very good climbers, Paul and Nuria from Cornudella. 

 Sadly it proved to be a very short trip of only a week, as a few days after we'd arrived, Le President Mr Macron, announced to the nation that France was going into lockdown again. We thought very carefully about whether to stay in Spain or to return home. It seemed obvious to us that Spain would soon do the same, and there was a lot of heavy rain due to arrive where we were climbing. If we didn't head back we were worried that we'd be trapped in Spain, with all the worries of needing to be tested to eventually re-enter France or to self-isolate in a Spanish hotel, if either of us was proved to be positive, for two weeks at our expense. The safest and most sensible thing to do was to return home. 

 Despite having to return after only five days climbing, I was very happy to have managed to red-point "El poder del carajillo" (8a), on-sight "Tiempo de valientes" (7c) and I was very close to doing "Decotation inminente" (8a). Elaine's fingers got stronger with each passing day (until her skin eventually became too sore), none the less she was very happy to piece together and finally succeeded on "La banda de Calanda" (7a+). Stuck here at home under reconfinement I'm dreaming of returning to La Moreria again next autumn.

A giant Ruff about to swallow a mini Elaine.

40 minutes to walk to the crag.

4 photos of Elaine climbing "La banda de Calanda" (7a+).

2 photos of Nuria on-sighting "El poder del carajillo" (8a).

2 photos of Paul flashing "El poder del carajillo" (8a).

It's a big crag. 3 photos of the 7c+ part of "Decotation inminente".

Happy dog.

Fun in the Gorges du Loup

Elaine needed to have her annual finger injections for her arthritis in September and October. So we stayed at home and climbed locally in the beautiful Gorges du Loup. Here's some photos of some of the action.

The ladder at the start of the access for 1ere and 2eme Etage at Deverse.

South African ex-pat Matthew Murison working the stunning Kiss Pupuce (8a) at Deverse 2eme Etage.

So happy after doing Kiss Pupuce (8a) 1st go 2nd day.

Not much room underneath Kiss Pupuce sends you a little bit mad.

Three photos showing the access to Deverse Premier Etage.

Three photos of Jean-Mi climbing Banditos, 7c.

Mich climbing Banditos, 7c.

Three photos of La voie de Yannick, 8a.

Two photos of Fabien climbing an unnamed 7b+.

Two photos of Big Ben climbing Tinder Surprise (8b).

Maxime on Le Tromblochon (8a+).

Looking up at my rope in Pau-werful de la muerte.

Happy after doing Pau-werful de la muerte (8a+).

Climbing at Rincon de Sin (near Bielsa, Spanish Pyrenees)

Since the end of confinement it's been great to get outdoors and touch rock again.

In June, we spent a couple of weeks in the the Gorges de St May, 20km west of Nyons (Drome Provençale). It's one of our favourite areas because it's quiet and not well known, and the climbing is generally steep with good holds and colonettes. I'd wanted to return to do a great looking 7c+ called "Lezard a tete bleue", which was supposed to be very bouldery at the top. I found a very efficient sequence, which proved the key and it turned out to be fine.

Wherever we travel, we always make an effort to be friendly with the local climbers, it's nice way to make new friends and find out the latest info in each area. Such was the case this time, we were told about the latest spot a la mode, called Le Vatican. Wow, what a crag! Lots to go back for when it's cooler (and quieter).

Then back home for some more ace bouldering at Art Bloc in Nice.

In July, we spent three fantastic weeks climbing in the Valley de Cinca, near Bielsa, just over the frontier in the Spanish Pyrenees. This is one of our top ten favourite destinations. The scenery is beautiful, the climbing is amazing, it's not too far away and there's a great campsite. I think this was our seventh visit to the area, and again we got a very warm welcome from the family who run "Camping Bielsa".

We have already climbed lots at the well known crags of Foz de la Canal, Las Devotas and Super Devotas, but this time we climbed mostly at a new crag called Rincon de Sin. You have to understand that this cliff has been equipped by French climbers (mostly Guillaume Bouloumie and Dominique Brenguer), so the grades are generally stiff. Also, just like the other crags in the area, the bolting tends to be spaced, so you have to be prepared to climb well above your last bolt (or use a clipstick!). We found enough info on the Aure Verticale website (see attached) to get us to the crag (which is a steep 30 minute uphill walk). There are now over 100 climbs at Rincon de Sin, which will be included in the next edition of "Grimpe en Vallees d'Aure et du Cinca", due out next year.

Here is another link to find out more info: http://fanatic-climbing.com/rincon-une-nouvelle-falaise-frontaliere-dans-les-pyrenees-rincon-new-border-crag-in-the-pyrenees/

My favourite routes were Adidas (7c), Rosae (7c+), Paraguayo (7b), Marche Pied (7c), Good Time (8a), El Esquinazau (7b), Sorry Angel (7a+) and Planosphere (7c+).

The names can be found at the base of each climb, Guillaume, Dom, Pascal, Carine and Alain will probably be there to tell you the grades. Bon grimpe!

Photos show Carine on "Marche Pied" (7c), Celine on "Sorry Angel" and Carine on "Salamalecs" (7b+). All photos taken by Elaine Owen.

"Welcome to Rincon" or possibly "Futur Incertain" (very hard). Photo by Elaine.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 34.

Wonderful memories of climbing with really great mates over the years Number 34.

I'm hesitant about writing this one, not because I'm unsure of whether I had a good time climbing with this top bloke, but because I know he's a very discreet and private person. So I'll keep it short. Thanks for the fun times at Kilnsey, Chapel Head Scar and Cheedale during the autumn of 1989, they were definitely care free and happy days. Keep on cranking Dave.

Tim Lowe with Dave Hinton.

Dave Hinton climbing Western Front at almscliffe.