Easter in Leonidio and the shoulder is working properly again

I actually thought I was "cured" of depression, as I hadn't had an attack for about six years. However, you never get cured, it stays with you forever. Days, or months or even years, can go by and you're fine. Then suddenly, you're feeling really unhappy, anxious and stressed out at work, and coping with everyday life becomes a very hard struggle, despite the really positive and wonderful things around you.

Since Christmas, I'd been getting really tired and wasn't able to switch off from work. I wasn't able to sleep, my mind was always racing and I became more and more negative. I kept my feelings to myself, as I didn't want to upset my lovely wife, Elaine. I'd managed to remain positive during the past eleven months, with everything that had happened regarding my shoulder and the long road back to fitness (despite the appalling weather) and we'd been doing lots of great bouldering indoors. However, I'd gone back to work full time and it was proving too much. Eventually I wanted out, so I took an overdose with whiskey on March 16th and closed my eyes, hoping that I'd never wake up again.

Luckily, I did wake up next morning. I felt absolutely shit but soon began to realise that I was glad that my attempt to depart prematurely had failed. To cut a long story short, since then I have been receiving excellent professional treatment Thanks to Elaine (and our wonderful doctor's help) I have been making good progress and feeling more positive. I'm still pretty tired but I'm sleeping a bit better, though I'm often thinking about work. I'm back on anti-depressants and off the booze completely. I've been signed off work long term. I'm indebted to the Head, my head of department and my colleagues at school, who have been really helpful and supportive throughout. I don't mind being open and talking about this, it helps me understand my illness and come to terms with it more easily. Thanks Sa for recommending the following links on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiCrniLQGYc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VRRx7Mtep8

The Easter holiday arrived and we desperately needed a holiday, to get away for a complete break and share some real quality time together. The plan was to go to the Costa Blanca but the weather forecast was rubbish for everywhere in Spain. So, the afternoon Elaine finished work we booked a ferry from Ancona to Patras and drove off in the Cali straight away, heading for Leonidio in Greece. Unfortunately this meant 7 hours driving across Italy and having to put up with the horrendous autopistas filled with pot holes that are ready to burst your tyres, and to suffer the crazy Italian drivers. It also meant that four days travelling would mean we'd have less climbing time but it was all worth it in the end.

We had planned to climb on mainland Greece during our year out, three years ago, but got put off by the weather at the time. Eddie and Mandy Martinez were just finishing their three months there and we were very motivated by their tales and photos. They were travelling in the exact opposite direction as us and, miraculously, Elaine and Mandy managed to co-ordinate an excellent rdv at an autopista service stop, it was great to see them both. We traveled "Open Deck" on the ferry, which meant we were on the open-sided transport deck and could stay in the Cali. It also meant that we saved 500 Euros by not having to have a cabin. There were toilets and showers on the same deck and it proved to be a very comfortable and relaxing crossing. Three and a half hours after arriving at Patras we pulled up at Camping Semeli, on the beach at Plaka (near Leonidio). The plots were very spacious, toilets and showers were spot on and the campsite was clean and quiet (we paid 150 Euros for twelve nights). However, there were a lot of mosquitoes and noise from barking dogs during the night. There were also loads of feral cats. Now Ruff, Elaine and I hate cats, but they're great for improving your shoulder strength by practicing your stone throwing abilities and also for Ruff to chase! I only wish I'd had Al Stewart's catapult.

We managed to climb for eight days, as we took things fairly easily, making sure we enjoyed the place by having some rest days. We were a bit limited with the choice of crags because it was too hot to climb in the sun (temps were typically around 23 degrees C during the day). We climbed at Mars (shade pm), Elona (shade until 14h 30), King of Thrones (shade until 16h) and Kapsala (shade after 11h). All of these crags offered exactly what we were looking for: yeah, long routes on overhanging rock with tufas from 6a up to 8a. We couldn't make it to HADA with a dog and Twin Caves was always in the sun. Whilst there were still quite a few climbers around this late in the season, the crags weren't packed out and we were able to chose our routes without queuing. It never rained (apart from some sandy drops, one morning).

We had an absolutely fabulous time, met up with some old friends and made lots of new friends whilst there. We both agreed that it was a much nicer place than Kalymnos, because there's so much more to do than just climbing plus you don't feel like you're being ripped off by someone who's not paying their taxes. The locals are so friendly, people give you free fruit and everybody speaks some English. The scenery is stunning and it's so cheap to eat out. We were spending around 25 Euros for a starter and main course for both of us. In fact we had four attempts, in different restaurants, to eat everything we were given and each time we failed miserably, there was simply too much food! I'd strongly recommend that people go and visit this beautiful place. It was wonderful to climb on rock again, after so long. Although we were sad to leave, we'll definitely go back, there's loads to do.

The setting sun seen from the Cali on the open deck.

"Open Deck" means open-sided transport deck (plus free electricity hook up).

How much longer?

Arriving at Patras.

The Owens at Mars.

Rest day food at the harbour in Plaka.

Mayssam El Kaii from Lebanon climbing Pontiki sto Tiri (6b+) at Mars.

A German climber on Mystere et boule de gomme (6c+) at Mars.

The amazing Elona, tufa paradise.

Just around the corner from the crag is the monastery (photo from the topo).

View of Leonidio and the sea beyond.

Our plot at Camping Semeli.

How old is this olive tree?

Two photos of Marco from Andorra climbing Eisvoleas (7c) at Elona.

Les Nicois at Leonidio (Elaine, Pessiman, Liza and Sponge Bob).

Two bum shots showing Sponge Bob climbing the stunning Kopakabana (7c) at Elona.

From the topo: Svana Bjarnason climbing Chuck Notis (7a+) at Mars.

Not my photo, Diet Dope (7b) at Elona.

So good to climb again. Knee pads off and a smile so wide after sending Oeil de Boeuf (given 8a) at Mars.

Colin Goodey, farewell my friend

Colin Goodey having fun as usual

At the end of the 70's I ended up working in a small factory in Mochdre (near Colwyn Bay in North Wales). It was a really dull couple of years as my job was very boring and I hated every minute of it. There was an older man there, who seemed to be happy in his own world, as he went about the place maintaining the machines. We sort of attracted each other and we discovered that we were both climbers. I learnt that he had really been involved in the development of the Moelwyn crags and his favourite cliff was Lliwedd. His name was Bill Trench and he had so many great tales to tell. Many of his tales involved his protege, one Colin Goodey. Obviously I'd heard about Col, as I was active on the limestone crags in the area, where he'd put up loads of new routes, but I'd never met him myself.

Eventually, Bill took me over to Llanfairfechan, after work one evening, to meet Col and his wife Sue, at their outdoor centre "The Towers" where they lived with their three young daughters, Katherine, Delyth and Sara (the Goodey Girls). Colin and Sue were very charming hosts and it turned out to be quite a late evening, with plenty of banter, lots of laughter and a fair amount of whiskey consumed. Understandably, Bill and I went back several times and I was hooked on their mischievous sense of fun and adventure. In 1980, I left the area to settle into my new life of adventure with Elaine and didn't see them for many years.

The years passed by, the Goodey girls grew up and Col and Sue eventually sold "The Towers". Col and Sue became full time climbers, travellers and adventurers. We heard all about their exploits whenever we bumped into any of the Goodey Girls. At the time, Kath was pushing female trad standards in North Wales, Del was pushing female sport standards in the Peak and Sar was really into mountain biking and ended up living in St Helens, whilst doing her training in Liverpool. What I always found remarkable, about these amazing young ladies, was that they had all clearly benefited from the outdoor lifestyle and sense of fun that their parents had introduced them to at a very young age.

Over the years we have kept in touch with Col and Sue. A few years ago now, we were able to put them in touch with a colleague of ours, who needed someone to look after her house down here on the Cote d'Azur during the summer. That was too good a chance for them to miss. Col and Sue looked very much at home, sipping wine beside the pool, when we went across to see them and it was great to listen to their latest adventures (and to hear some of the old tales again!).

We were so lucky to see Col and Sue when we were back in Wales last summer. Col had been poorly for a while but he hadn't lost his great sense of humour and ability to tell a wonderful tale. We were once again captivated listeners. We had a lovely meal together in an Italian restaurant and drank some nice smooth brandy into the early hours back at their place. We left with heavy hearts, both of us silently hoping that we'd see Col again next summer. Sadly, that isn't to be as Col eventually succumbed to his illness and passed away last Monday, 5th March. He will be very sadly missed by so many because he touched so many lives.

I am sure that Col's spirit is up to the usual mischief and having fun in Snowdonia and around his beloved Ormes. We will return next summer to do some of his climbs. Farewell my friend.

My thoughts and deepest sympathy are with Sue and the Goodey Girls.

There are some great tributes to Colin on UKClimbing: www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/12/colin's_first_climb_-_do_what_you_can_now-70860
www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/03/north_wales_pioneer_colin_goodey_passes_away-71504

Bravo Art Bloc and 3 head to France in 1991

Well it's the February half term holiday. We had been planning on heading off to find the sun for a week. However the weather across all of southern Europe is either already crap or is soon going to be crap. So there's been nothing else to do other than stay at home. In fact the weather here the next couple of days is going to be very cold, so we've stocked up on food and wine so that we won't run out in case things get really bad.

The shoulder has been really improving and I'm almost back to 100% fitness now. We haven't been climbing outdoors since Christmas (because of the weather and a lack of anything new to do really) but we've both been really enjoying bouldering indoors, especially at Art Bloc, which has recently expanded and doubled it's surface area. We love Art Bloc, it's where we started to meet local climbers when we first arrived here in 1999, the blocs are always interesting and varied and are much more in keeping with real climbing than the other climbing gyms down here, ie. it's not just about jumping around from one slopey volume to another. I have to say that I find the bouldering at Val de Grimpe and Bloc Party too physical on my shoulder and very dis-heartening, to me there only appears to be two grades: too easy or too hard. Art Bloc is perfect for us, we feel so psyched after each session and can't wait to return. Thanks to all the team at Art Bloc for creating so many interesting and varied blocs, thanks for such a great job and keeping us motivated.

I've been scratching my head for some ideas about trying to write something interesting. There hasn't been any real reason to write a blog since last summer as we haven't been up to much. However I have had an idea, so let's see how it goes.....

Sometime during my first year of teaching we noticed a note in the Climbers Club newsletter advertising grants available from an organisation called The Winston Churchill Travel Fellowship under the category of Exploration and Adventure for Women. We got thinking and came up with an idea of the two of us investigating why French women rock climbers were so good (they were at that time the best in the world, eg. Catherine Destivelle and Isabelle Patissiere). Our plan involved a nine week trip during September and October, travelling to lots of different climbing areas, interviewing lots of women climbers, oh and doing as much climbing as we could. Elaine put in an application and was invited down to London for an interview. She was full of a cold and set off on the train. She was interviewed by a panel that included one of my childhood heroes, 1964 Olympic long jump champion and fellow Welshman Lynn Davies CBE and Dame Naomi James. Apparently they were very impressed with her thorough planning, and making the effort to travel to London whilst ill, that she was awarded a very substantial grant which would be more than enough for our frugal lifestyle. As I had only just started teaching I would have to quit and hopefully find another job when we returned. So I finished off my probationary year and resigned. My neighbour told me about a vacancy (due to maternity leave) starting in the November in the science department at his school. I was interviewed and got the job. We couldn't believe our luck. All was sorted and we could hardly contain our excitement that summer, way back in 1991. Elaine's old school mate and our best man, Phil Ralph, decided to join us and we eventually headed off at the end of August in our old Citroen C15 van.

First stop was Fontainebleu and sight-seeing in Paris, it was really very hot. I can remember the taxi driver stopping in the middle of the L'Arc de Triomphe so that we could take photos, cooling off around the fountain outside Le Louvre and also ordering steak tartare, because it was the plat du jour and sounded good, in some restaurant, which we politely declined to eat. Elaine had put a note in the French magazine Vertical and she'd received some replies, including one from Isabelle Lucet-Juchault, who'd told us about a fantastic cliff called La Guignotrie, near Poitier. It was good to escape from the heat and start to do some proper climbing. We had a great time there, the climbing on the overhanging pocketed walls was amazing and we enjoyed staying at the peaceful campsite in Angles sur l'Anglin, until somebody stole Elaine's clothes off the washing line! We headed off to Saussois and just about managed to hang on long enough to do the polished l'Ange but couldn't touch Chimpanzodrome! Next stop was a new cliff that we'd just started hearing about called Ceuse. Ralphy and I felt like we'd discovered paradise and we couldn't understand why Elaine didn't quite feel the same way. At that time we were young and fit and hardly noticed the long walk, we'd already be stuck into something at secteur Cascade, by the time she'd arrive. Despite the awesome climbing, we ended up leaving Ceuse far too soon and headed for the valley crags in Briancon, which involved shorter walk-ins. I was gutted when we saw how small and scratty looking the crags were in comparison. We persevered for a few days and then headed further south to Orpierre, where we bumped into Paul Pritchard looking very cool in a nice pair of Vuarnet sunglasses. He told us how we needed to get some decent sunglasses to try to decrease the risk of getting retina cancer. We soon headed off to Buoux, which we'd already visited (along with the Gorges du Verdon) some years earlier. We ended up spending the rest of the trip there and having a wonderful time, despite struggling with the pockets. We took note of Paul's advice and all three of us bought a cool looking pair of Vuarnet's to help us cope with the endless Provancal sunshine, whilst on a rest day in Apt. We also visited Volx on a rainy day. Upon arriving at the crag I walked up to a young, fit looking climber and in my poor French asked him "Est ce que vous avez un topo?", to which he replied "Non, I don't need a topo" but he proceeded to tell us the climbs and grades. When we later saw him running up everything we realised he was non-other than current World Champ Francios Legrand! We became good friends that trip. We also met up with legend Catherine Destivelle underneath Styx Wall at Buoux and Elaine was able to put her name on the research that we carried out.

All too soon our time was running out, we still had loads of unfinished projects but we were definitely becoming jaded after doing so much climbing, so we started looking forward to returning home and slotting back into our normal lives again. We'd had a fabulous time, although we hadn't been to lots of the places we had hoped to, mostly because it was pretty hot and it wasn't yet winter. We left Ralphy to climb with Big Mick Johnson and we headed north. Upon returning, we both started teaching again and Elaine published her research and gave a slide show for the Winston Churchill Travel Fellowship. Surprise, surprise, it wasn't rocket science, she concluded that a combination of so much available climbing all year round, the emphasis on sport climbing, great weather, a long established positive attitude towards sport as a whole and by encouraging children to start climbing at a young age, it was understandable that French Women Climbers were at the cutting edge of our sport.

Thanks to the Winston Churchill Travel Fellowship we were able to get a wonderful taste of the French way of life, and that trip turned out to be the start of many adventures during the next eight years, culminating in our eventual move across the Channel. We've never looked back since!

Team Vuarnet

Elaine at Fontainbleau

Ralphy at Fontainbleau

Mike on Blanche Fesse at Ceuse

Team GB's Fliss Butler on Vagabond d'Occident at Ceuse

Mike on Mirage at Ceuse

Mike at Orpierre

Ralphy on the mega classic No Man's Land at Buoux

Elaine on Pepsicomane at Buoux

Mike on Charles de Goal at Volx

Ralphy on Rose des Sables at Buoux

Mike on Requiem at Buoux

Smiling at secteur TCF

Elaine on TCF at Buoux

Elaine on a nice warm up at La Guignotrie

Elaine on a tricky 7a+ at La Guignotrie

The Owens' return to Britain (only joking, it was a holiday!)

What do you do when your physio goes on holiday and you can't go climbing? Visit Britain of course. To be more precise, visit the Yorkshire Dales and Snowdonia. Why not?

The shoulder has been making good, steady progress. With Patrick (my physio) going on holiday we had a little over three weeks before my next session. Elaine didn't want to go climbing in the summer heat (nor did I want to go to some awesome new crag, as it's way too early for me to even think of doing easy climbs). We needed a totally different kind of holiday this summer and decided to visit Britain, to go walking and climbing indoors.  

We made the long journey north and took the ferry from Calais to Dover. It's amazing to think that we used to do that same journey six times a year, before we moved to France. Driving round the M25 reminded us just why we'd left Britain all those years ago. The weather was vile and driving conditions were awful. At least the British drivers were driving courteously and sticking to the speed limit. First destination was Elaine's cousins wedding reception in Buckingham (thanks for the bacon butties - we were so hungry!). It was great fun seeing the Scottish side of the family again: Susan, Michael, Graham and Bonny.

Next day we headed further north towards Settle in North Yorkshire, destination Settle Lodge Bed and Breakfast, to stay with Eddie and Mandy for a few days, to do some walking in The Dales and, of course, to enjoy Eddie's famous cooked breakfasts. We had a wonderful room with a great view, a very comfortable king sized bed, superb modern shower and the softest, fluffiest towels we came across during our stay in Britain. As usual they were both on fine form and had us in fits of laughter. The four of us made the classic walk round Gordale Scar, Malham Cove and Janet's Fosse, the scenery is still stunning after all these years. Unfortunately nobody was climbing but it was nice to be able to still visualise the moves on the starts of New Dawn, Zoolook and Raindogs. Standing there on The Catwalk surrounded by so many classic climbs was like saying "hello" to lots of old friends. On another occasion we took Ruff for a long walk up Ingleborough from Clapham (some thirty four years since the last trip up there during the Three Peaks Walk). Later in the week, we were unimpressed when we visited Kendal Climbing Centre: verdict very expensive for mediocre bouldering, unfriendly staff and not at all dog friendly. Ruff and I were ejected from an otherwise empty cafe by a surly young woman (having bought a sandwich and a coffee) and had to wait in the van whilst Elaine climbed. I really wouldn't recommend the place to anyone and I certainly wouldn't consider going there ever again. With a full weekend of bookings at Settle Lodge, we bade farewell to Eddie and Mandy and headed south towards Wales. En route we visited my sisters, Elaine's brother and The Hangar in Liverpool (quite possibly our favourite climbing wall; very dog friendly too).

We had got very much used to the luxury of Settle Lodge and decided against staying in the Cali, using the rain and my shoulder as perfect excuses. So we booked a nice little cottage on a working farm. Ty-Mawr Farm in Llandeiniolen was perfectly located for access to the mountains and The Beacon climbing wall. 

The highlights of our two weeks in Snowdonia  were undoubtedly meeting up with so many old friends (particularly my old climbing partners John Roberts, Brian Jones and Pete White) and walking and scrambling in the mountains, the very same place I learnt all my mountaineering skills as a teenager in the 70's. The landscape is still as beautiful and stunning as I remembered it. I think it's true to say that my heart definitely belongs in North Wales (despite the cold, wind and rain!).

By the way, we had so much fun that we'll probably be going back next summer. Any of our French friends fancy joining us to do some trad?

Mandy showing Ruff how to work out on a wet day in Settle.

Ruff enjoying the descent from Ingleborough.

Ruff getting all the attention at The Hangar.

Elaine in the big cave at The Hangar.

I started climbing with these guys: Pete White, John Roberts and Brian Jones.

A chilly day to be on the summit of Pen Yr Ole Wen, looking towards Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Llyn Idwal (Snowdon hidden in cloud on the right).

Imagine bumping into Martin Crook and Mel Griffiths at The Beacon? Imagine bumping into Martin Crook and Mel Griffiths at The Beacon?

Elaine in the big cave at The Beacon.

We also bumped into Bonny Masson as well.

Al Stewart in The Beacon's big cave.

Coffee on the sofa. Al Stewart, Ken Latham, Elaine, me, Denise and Brian Jones, Sarah and John Peake.

Mick Lovatt gave us a guided tour of the Lleyn crags.

View from Mynydd Perfedd, L to R: Tryfan, Glyder Fach, Foel Goch (closest), Glyder Fawr (most distant) and Y Garn.

Meeting up with Kath Goodey and Dave Lyons at Joe Brown's in Capel Curig.

Meeting up with Fluff from our student days at I M Marsh over 30 years ago!

Summit of Tryfan, there were people all over Adam and Eve (hence the reason they're missing from the photo, just left of Elaine).

The classic photo of The Cantilever on Glyder Fach.

Meeting up for a meal with Sue and Colin Goodey in Penmaenmawr.

Meeting up with some old faces from the Liverpool/Deeside scene at The Boardroom. L to R: Roger Bennion, Andy Boorman, her, legend Phil Davidson, me, Paul Bolger, unknown, Al Stewart.

Re-living the good old times. Me and Phil Davidson. When was the last time we climbed together?

Excellent motivation for next summer's visit.