The oncologist didn't want to see Elaine for almost 2 months, which gave us a window of 6 weeks until her next scans. So, we decided to go somewhere further away than usual. Initially, it was going to be Granada, but the torrential rain made it necessary to head in the opposite direction. We decided it was about time we went to Manikia, on the island of Evia, in Greece, about 2 hours drive north of Athens.
It's a long and tiring journey, which includes a 22-hour ferry from Ancona to Igoumenitsa (or Patras), which takes us 4 days. It's well worth the effort though.
We established ourselves at Dragonera Cliffs Camping in Vrysi, which is definitely the best place to stay in a van, as the Manikia Project discourages wild camping. The campsite is basic but is great value at 12€ a night for 2 people + van, and Maria is the friendliest host you could possibly imagine. We were very touched by her generous gifts of eggs, cakes, and fruit every few days. The campsite has toilets, showers, drinking water and a kitchen area.
It's worth mentioning that you can walk to the closest crags, which are located above the campsite in a beautiful valley called Mpougazi. However, it's much nicer to drive up the hill and save yourself 20 minutes, and save your energy for climbing. At peak holiday times, I can imagine the car park gets full quickly, so be aware that walking might be the only option. You'll need a car to get to all the other crags, which are located in the valley between Vrysi and Manikia.
Another point worth mentioning is that Manikia is nothing like Kalymnos or Leonidio. It's very quiet and peaceful; I would say that it definitely feels off the beaten track, it's wild and unspoilt. It's also pretty clean, you don't see the litter and plastic bottles that you find in other parts of Greece. The place has a rural feel and there are plenty of goats and sheep about.
There is an excellent shop in Vrysi where you can buy most things, including fresh bread, fruit and vegetables, beer and homemade cakes and savouries, and the topo. There are also 2 excellent places to eat out: The Tavern (below the shop) and the River Café (below the Tavern). Both provide excellent value for money food with great friendly service. There is a supermarket in nearby Konistres, where there is also a climbing shop and a Sunday market.
When we arrived in early March, it was a bit too hot for climbing but perfect for living in the van. Then it got really cold at night with frost in the mornings (it even snowed), which was perfect for climbing but unpleasant for living in the van, so we moved into a caravan on the campsite. It got way too cold at night in the caravan, so we rented an apartment (The House on the Mountain, in nearby Gaia, opposite the lower valley crags). A constant feature of the weather was the strong wind. The last couple of weeks were a bit unsettled, but the crags stayed dry. However, it was raining and a miserable 7C when we left in early April just before the Easter holidays.
I like steep climbing on good holds and tufas, so climbed mostly at Dragonera, in Mpougazi and Les larmes de Sisyphe, in the Lower Valley. Other notable crags were Rolling Stone, Ilona Cave, Rainbow, Manikia Kentro and Manikia Paralia. Nick Weicht has equipped Sisyphe Right single handedly, which will become a very popular spot, once it cleans up.
Amazingly, most of the time we had the crags to ourselves. Most of the crags face south, which means climbing in the afternoon/early evening after a leisurely start to the day. Unfortunately, the north facing crags are banned until the end of June due to nesting birds, so we didn't climb there but, to be honest, it looks like a faff getting there with lots of handlines. Daxi Daxi looks really good for next time.
Many of the routes at Sisyphe start above an awkward slab accessible by handlines, roughly 10 metres above the ground. I was able to do all of them, belayed by Elaine on the ground, and using long slings on the first few bolts. An 80m rope was long enough to lower back down to the handlines. Ok, there was some rope drag up high, but it was worth it to avoid faffing about, and an uncomfortable hanging belay for her. Definite to guarantee a full workout for me though.
In summary: a great adventure, somewhere new, remote, quiet, slower pace of life, excellent climbing, friendly locals, beautiful scenery.
For further information, read Dominic Oughton's excellent 3 part blog:
https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2024/03/02/manikia-mpougazi/
https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2024/02/28/manikia-lower-valley-crags/
https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2024/03/03/manikia-upper-valley/
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The Lower Valley crags |
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Still half a Greek salad left! |
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Vegetarian pizza at the River Café |
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Manikia Paralia |
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Marx Attack, 7c, Sisyphe |
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Mummy break time, 8a, Ilona Cave (photo by Iris Straatsma) |
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Iris on Mummy break time |
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Iris trying Breaking Dad, 8a+ |
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Get off my cloud, 8a, Rolling Stone (photo by Simon/Louise Nadin) |
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Ethelontis, 7c, Dragonera (photo by Simon Nadin) |
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View from Rolling Stone |
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View from Rolling Stone |
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Looking up the valley towards Manikia |
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Rainbow/Ilona carpark |
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Team Nadin Owen |
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Mpougazi from Dragonera Cliffs Camping |
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Buy the topo |